Performance increase questions
#11
#13
ya you can't just screw up the pump settings really. not with afc live. if its too smokey, turn down the afc control, if it gets too hot up top turn down the full feeling ****, that simple. id suggest going with their level 1 since i doubt you will need the full fuel switch. *** for glow shift stay away. quality gauges are a must and those are not them. get a 3 gauge pod off summit. about 50-80$ and isspro gauges from a ton of different suppliers. they are by far the easiest to install and highest quality. I've ran many autometers and i will never go back.
The following users liked this post:
Jet A Fuel (01-09-2016)
#14
#15
It certainly would, just keep a close eye on your pyro while doing it.
+1 for Isspro. The quality and service are outstanding, and many of our vendors can give you quotes on a full setup. Many people still swear bt Autometer, but I personally have had lots of problems with them over the years. Also +1 for avoiding Glowshift. Stay away. If all you want are pretty gauges in your truck you can't go wrong with them. But if you need your gauges to be accurate, use them at your own risk.
+1 for Isspro. The quality and service are outstanding, and many of our vendors can give you quotes on a full setup. Many people still swear bt Autometer, but I personally have had lots of problems with them over the years. Also +1 for avoiding Glowshift. Stay away. If all you want are pretty gauges in your truck you can't go wrong with them. But if you need your gauges to be accurate, use them at your own risk.
The following users liked this post:
Jet A Fuel (01-09-2016)
#16
The following users liked this post:
Jet A Fuel (01-09-2016)
#17
Thanks for all the advice. I've got a couple more questions. Regarding the 3gsk, am I correct in assuming that this increases the governed rpm to 3000? I don't plan on running my truck that high so is there any benefit to it? Lets assume that I'm on one of my Alaska trips pulling a heavy trailer at 2000 rpm and I get to a long hill. As I hit the bottom of the hill, I'm going to mash it (without getting up to 3000 rpm) and deal with any downshifts appropriately. Will having a 3gsk improve the hill climbing characteristics over the stock springs? Max torque is at 1600 and max hp is at 2600 so there's no need for me to go to 3000 rpm.
Now a guestion on the AFC Live. I understand that one of the ***** adjusts the maximum fuel and the other adjusts the rate at which the boost kicks in and the switch simply opens it up. Lets say I'm driving to work (7 miles)...pretty much the whole way is 40 mph side roads...just putting along. Am I going to screw up my fuel mileage because I have things set wrong? Or, does the AFC Live only come into play when it's time to work the truck? I drove Semi in my 20's and have a clear understanding on watching and interpreting gauges and have a lot of experience in backing off a bit when the pyrometer was barking with my #10 button. I have a pillar pod and isspro gauges ordered and will run those before I make any changes in order to get a baseline. If the AFC Live only comes into play when the truck is working and I have control over the gauges while it is then I'd be apt to buy it. I don't want the AFC Live to screw up my fuel mileage running to the supermarket. Lower MI is like a pancake (compared to AK) so it's not like I can work the truck to find the sweet spot. There's 3 or 4 times a year when the AFC Live full-on switch would come in handy to deal with some A-holes but other than that, I'd like a bit quicker reaction on the turbo and a bit more power when she's working. I love her the way she is so maybe this is just a bit of a boob lift.
Now a guestion on the AFC Live. I understand that one of the ***** adjusts the maximum fuel and the other adjusts the rate at which the boost kicks in and the switch simply opens it up. Lets say I'm driving to work (7 miles)...pretty much the whole way is 40 mph side roads...just putting along. Am I going to screw up my fuel mileage because I have things set wrong? Or, does the AFC Live only come into play when it's time to work the truck? I drove Semi in my 20's and have a clear understanding on watching and interpreting gauges and have a lot of experience in backing off a bit when the pyrometer was barking with my #10 button. I have a pillar pod and isspro gauges ordered and will run those before I make any changes in order to get a baseline. If the AFC Live only comes into play when the truck is working and I have control over the gauges while it is then I'd be apt to buy it. I don't want the AFC Live to screw up my fuel mileage running to the supermarket. Lower MI is like a pancake (compared to AK) so it's not like I can work the truck to find the sweet spot. There's 3 or 4 times a year when the AFC Live full-on switch would come in handy to deal with some A-holes but other than that, I'd like a bit quicker reaction on the turbo and a bit more power when she's working. I love her the way she is so maybe this is just a bit of a boob lift.
#18
Thanks for all the advice. I've got a couple more questions. Regarding the 3gsk, am I correct in assuming that this increases the governed rpm to 3000? I don't plan on running my truck that high so is there any benefit to it? Lets assume that I'm on one of my Alaska trips pulling a heavy trailer at 2000 rpm and I get to a long hill. As I hit the bottom of the hill, I'm going to mash it (without getting up to 3000 rpm) and deal with any downshifts appropriately. Will having a 3gsk improve the hill climbing characteristics over the stock springs? Max torque is at 1600 and max hp is at 2600 so there's no need for me to go to 3000 rpm.
Yes the 3k kit will allow your motor to rev out to 3000-3200 rpm. The main benefit of these springs is they allow the pump to fuel hard longer than the stock springs. Your current stock springs begin to defuel around 2200-2400 rpm changing the springs will allow full fuel to 2600-2800 rpm. When you start changing plates and modding the afc it is easy to feel the stock springs holding the truck back. These springs will help your hill climbing.
Now a guestion on the AFC Live. I understand that one of the ***** adjusts the maximum fuel and the other adjusts the rate at which the boost kicks in and the switch simply opens it up. Lets say I'm driving to work (7 miles)...pretty much the whole way is 40 mph side roads...just putting along. Am I going to screw up my fuel mileage because I have things set wrong? Or, does the AFC Live only come into play when it's time to work the truck? I drove Semi in my 20's and have a clear understanding on watching and interpreting gauges and have a lot of experience in backing off a bit when the pyrometer was barking with my #10 button. I have a pillar pod and isspro gauges ordered and will run those before I make any changes in order to get a baseline. If the AFC Live only comes into play when the truck is working and I have control over the gauges while it is then I'd be apt to buy it. I don't want the AFC Live to screw up my fuel mileage running to the supermarket. Lower MI is like a pancake (compared to AK) so it's not like I can work the truck to find the sweet spot. There's 3 or 4 times a year when the AFC Live full-on switch would come in handy to deal with some A-holes but other than that, I'd like a bit quicker reaction on the turbo and a bit more power when she's working. I love her the way she is so maybe this is just a bit of a boob lift.
Since the AFC only comes into play when your truck builds boost no it will not affect your MPG. You will see the full benefit of the afc live when your trying to tow with bigger injectors. Personally for what your looking for I don't think you will need the AFC live. Simply changing your plate or sliding your current plate full forward with the basic AFC mods (Which you will still need to do even with AFC live) is all you will need when you also run the 3k springs.
Yes the 3k kit will allow your motor to rev out to 3000-3200 rpm. The main benefit of these springs is they allow the pump to fuel hard longer than the stock springs. Your current stock springs begin to defuel around 2200-2400 rpm changing the springs will allow full fuel to 2600-2800 rpm. When you start changing plates and modding the afc it is easy to feel the stock springs holding the truck back. These springs will help your hill climbing.
Now a guestion on the AFC Live. I understand that one of the ***** adjusts the maximum fuel and the other adjusts the rate at which the boost kicks in and the switch simply opens it up. Lets say I'm driving to work (7 miles)...pretty much the whole way is 40 mph side roads...just putting along. Am I going to screw up my fuel mileage because I have things set wrong? Or, does the AFC Live only come into play when it's time to work the truck? I drove Semi in my 20's and have a clear understanding on watching and interpreting gauges and have a lot of experience in backing off a bit when the pyrometer was barking with my #10 button. I have a pillar pod and isspro gauges ordered and will run those before I make any changes in order to get a baseline. If the AFC Live only comes into play when the truck is working and I have control over the gauges while it is then I'd be apt to buy it. I don't want the AFC Live to screw up my fuel mileage running to the supermarket. Lower MI is like a pancake (compared to AK) so it's not like I can work the truck to find the sweet spot. There's 3 or 4 times a year when the AFC Live full-on switch would come in handy to deal with some A-holes but other than that, I'd like a bit quicker reaction on the turbo and a bit more power when she's working. I love her the way she is so maybe this is just a bit of a boob lift.
Since the AFC only comes into play when your truck builds boost no it will not affect your MPG. You will see the full benefit of the afc live when your trying to tow with bigger injectors. Personally for what your looking for I don't think you will need the AFC live. Simply changing your plate or sliding your current plate full forward with the basic AFC mods (Which you will still need to do even with AFC live) is all you will need when you also run the 3k springs.
#19
94...thanks for the response and what you're saying makes perfect sense and is what I suspected. Just looking for a little boob job here. I've been doing a lot of research on this site and elsewhere and from what I've got so far is that an 11 plate would suit my needs. I'm not wanting to do studs or springs or exhaust or turbo...etc. I'd like a stock engine in my truck that is happily putting out more hp when I need it without going overboard. I can turn up smoke with my stock setup but maybe it would be better to exchange smoke for a finger!
The slots in the plate are so short I questioned the effectiveness of that movement in affecting performance. I guess the housing is slotted too. Should I slide the plate all the way forward and the housing all the way back?? I think I'll go with the springs and wait till what you say about an 11 plate and the position of the plate and housing or just keeping stock and moving things.
The slots in the plate are so short I questioned the effectiveness of that movement in affecting performance. I guess the housing is slotted too. Should I slide the plate all the way forward and the housing all the way back?? I think I'll go with the springs and wait till what you say about an 11 plate and the position of the plate and housing or just keeping stock and moving things.
#20
94...thanks for the response and what you're saying makes perfect sense and is what I suspected. Just looking for a little boob job here. I've been doing a lot of research on this site and elsewhere and from what I've got so far is that an 11 plate would suit my needs. I'm not wanting to do studs or springs or exhaust or turbo...etc. I'd like a stock engine in my truck that is happily putting out more hp when I need it without going overboard. I can turn up smoke with my stock setup but maybe it would be better to exchange smoke for a finger!
The slots in the plate are so short I questioned the effectiveness of that movement in affecting performance. I guess the housing is slotted too. Should I slide the plate all the way forward and the housing all the way back?? I think I'll go with the springs and wait till what you say about an 11 plate and the position of the plate and housing or just keeping stock and moving things.
The slots in the plate are so short I questioned the effectiveness of that movement in affecting performance. I guess the housing is slotted too. Should I slide the plate all the way forward and the housing all the way back?? I think I'll go with the springs and wait till what you say about an 11 plate and the position of the plate and housing or just keeping stock and moving things.
If I were you I would slide your current plate all the way forward (toward the front bumper)and read up on AFC mods since is all free. Just takes a little time to make these tweaks. Doing the washer flip and loosening your star wheel 1 - 1.5 truns would be all you need. Install the AFC housing as it was no need to slide it forward with a stock plate in there.