96 12v auto with 3gsk
 

Hey guys, I'm new to the site, and I'm curious if anyone can help me out. I want more power out of my old girl and I wanna install the 3gsk springs. I know 4gsk is better but I don't wanna deal with valve springs and more tranny issues. Will the stock tranny hold up with 3gsk springs and #6 tst fuel plate? I'll adjust the afc after as well. I've already got boost and Pyro gauges installed with 4" exhaust and cold air intake with silencer ring removed. I had BD+40 hp injectors but put the stock injectors back in, the BD ones didn't last. Any insight is appreciated.

Transmission questions are really open. Basically yes the transmission will hold it. But that depends how you drive. The race truck I work on put down over 400 horse on a fresh stock trans with a mopar hd converter. Now we didn't keep the stock one in long. If you abuse it it will go. The stock trans can hardly handle stock power levels with abuse and towing. So regardless your on borrowed time. Personally I think your wasting your money on a bought fuel plate. Just cut a 0 or 100 style plate be tune it back. I've run a couple trucks this way and it works far better the dealing with buying 10's and 6's and what have you. Then when you want more power you just slide it forward. Plus the power is much smoother with a 100/0 style plate.

Also no experience with a 3gsk but if it's like a 4 gsk you won't get 3000 rpm out of it unless you crank it down pretty far and even then on stock fuel and timing you may not still get that high. A 4 gsk installed at just a few clicks in with stock ish fueling could hardly get to 3400. And that's on a 180 pump. But the 4gsk I think drives far better and more power. Plus you can always crank it down and put the valve springs in later and not have to mess with upgrading to the 4gsk. Anyways that's just my 2 cents

Awesome thanks. What do you mean by 100/0 style fuel plate, just grind it flat? And what do you mean by cranking down with the 4gsk spring, derate it a bit? I was going to advance my timing up to either 16 or 16.5 degrees too.

Ya sorta flat. That's a 0, a 100 is flat except for a little tail basically. I usually cut kind of a custom 100 style with a smooth ramp maybe 1/4-3/16 taller than the flat portion. When you do the gsk it's basically a nut on a stud that puts pre load on the springs. The more load the more rpm. When you install a 3 or 4 gsk after about 2-3 solid clicks of the nut the spring will have pre load and the nut is safely tightened. But at this pre load you are running the minimum rpm the spring will run which is often lower then what is advertised I.e. 3 or 4000rpm. Fuel and timing do come into play for achieving rpm aswell. But if to want more rpm you crank the nut down equally on both shafts to get the rpm you want. A 4 gsk wont right off the bat put you in the danger zone for needing valve springs and with it at the lower rpm setting its not easy to just hit 3400 rpm. You really gotta push it especially on a stockish fuelling set up. Hope that helps.

Thanks man, great info. :tu:
I'll play around with it soon.