Oil through vent tube...
 

I got a 96 2500 with 560000 km on it and I'm having issues with oil coming out of the engine vent tube at 120+ Km/h if anyone knows of this or had problems with this and have found solutions ur help is greatly appreciated

Well how much oil is coming out? I know after a long hard drive I leave a orange sized spot under the truck, also I can see the side of the engine block it has a coating of oil on its side. I burn threw a quart every 2,000 miles. Hope that helps with your question

It is caused from blowby. That is why the oil gets into the tube and then on the ground. If you understand basic engine fundamentals you can figure out where to check. Somehow you are getting combustion pressures into the crankcase. Try a leak down test to see which cylinder is giving you issues

Also, dont rule out a possible injector(s) stuck open, dumping raw fuel into a cylinder(s) and washing passed the rings and mixing/ diluting the oil in the crankcase. This will cause the oil/fuel mixture to overfill the crankcase to which it will spill out of the vent tube. Check your oil level. If it is waaaay over the full mark, your likely "making oil" through the event decribed above. If its low, your likely losing it through excessive blow-by. Just tossing it out there..........

I have had that happen to me personally. This does not sound like the case :tu:

did u ever find out what it was mine only does it when i go above 120km/h at 2000 and up rpm if i run lower speed n rpm its fine. right now its still stock but I'm wiry on doing stuff to it and f**k it up more.

boost pressure goes up.
cylinder pressure goes up.
old rings combined with tapered cylinders results in a poor seal at high cylinder pressures.

Don't worry, I have the same thing. although my engine leaks from all orifices (even after a full reseal, I still coat the bottom on the truck), so it's difficult to tell.

I get minor (read: next to nothing) out of the blowby tube, and more from the dipstick tube actually. then again my dipstick collar is broken.

It is not that abnormal.
i meant i had an injector hang open... twice :oops3:

I was more explaining why your truck does it (oil out the vent tube) at higher RPM (vehicle speed has little to do with it, beyond potential engine load)

That happened to me as well. 2 injectors hung open, as a matter of fact. My engine was puking diluted oil through the vent tube BIG TIME. Coated the entire undercarriage. At least now it wont rust under there....:yeah:

heheh I was eying up a steering box stabilizer bar the other day, and I can get it in this awesome red powdercoat finish.

then I realized that within moments it'd be red with black streaks anyway.

I tried the colored parts thing once, now I just stick to black.. All my colored parts are black now anyway!.
The second time I had an injector hang open it decided that #6 injector wanted to be able to look at my con-Rod through a peice of aluminum. And it did :argh:
It got a lot tougher time getting through ceramic!

haha ya mine wont rust either, but my oil never goes up nor is it diluted so i don't think its a injector problem. i have herd places where people put a small air breather/filter on the filler cap to help it breath more

Mishimoto Universal Oil Catch Can MMOCC-RB/MMOCC-CF
Keep her clean!

meh. the vent tube is well below everything else.

besides, it's the least of my leaks.

I really wish someone made a steel/iron timing case for these things. Cause ya get it all sealed up, and have to start the truck and run it on one of those -40 days we get in the winter, and the aluminum heats up differently than the iron block and it's all f***ed in that one day again anyway.

Slim I do not have the same issues as far as -40° days go it is not quite get that cold here. Majority of the seals in my engine do not leak near like some that I have seen
But majority of them are also quite new:tu:

mine are all new. minus the oil pan.

cover, case, pump o ring, vac pump gasket, PS pump gasket, tappet cover. . . yep.

I didn't locktite the case bolts. I figure they backed off some since it did seal up fairly well and since then has gotten worse again.

So when I have the 200 bucks lying around I'm gonna get the seal kit again and do the job again.

and it'll be fine until a cold day. :lol:

someday when I have large amounts of money I'll go to a machine shop and get a steel timing case CNC'd

ill make some calls about a steel case...

A leaking vacuum pump or vac line will also cause more blow by because the vacuum pump exhausts into the crank case. Higher engine RPM = higher vac pump RPM = more air being pumped into the crankcase. Just something else to check.

Good point!

hm. . . I'll have to check vacuum. should still be about 21" eh?

This will make my day. I would cancel a few other upgrades for that.

I didnt realize they exhausted into the CC .. Crazy design .. :humm:

Just-Another-Dieselguy: hear anything about the steel timing case? I'm holding off on doing my seals again until I hear something about this. If all else fails I'll pony up and go to a machine shop and see what one would cost locally. But I can see that being nearly 2 grand for that hunka iron

Heck I could make one out of Metal around my shop .. LOL:rocking:.... not like I have the time..... BUT .. if I did .. :tu:

Update. Did some thinking. Did some talking.
Make one or have one made. You will have the same issue.
Unless it was made from cast iron, like the engine block. If you go with any other metal you will be potentially be facing the same exact issue. :argh:

so what's a block of cast iron cost? Did they give you an approximate price? surely there is a metal that has more similar thermodynamic expansion to the iron than this shitty pot aluminum crap.

If I cannot get this thing to seal in the cold, truck's gone. I'll buy another 7.3 powerstroke when I bite the bullet and seal it then sell it come spring. I can't be doing gaskets every time I need to run the truck in the winter. that's bull, and it's crap design. It's not as if the 7.3 loves winter either, with it's low compression and reliance on finnicky glowplugs, but that's upgraded glowplugs and a pan heater beat the hell out of pissing oil every time I need to run the thing in winter.

I am beyond frustrated with this issue. Whoever thought this was a good design choice needs to be taken out back behind the woodshed.

edit: I don't mean to sound demanding. *sigh*
I parked it today is all. don't wanna run it without redoing the gasket set with a little film of anaerobic sealant along the gaskets this time, and replacing the oil pan gasket as well. Also looking into running a 2nd block heater off the rearmost welch plug and a pan heater since I cannot afford a proper webasto. with a webasto/espar I'd probably run it through winter. I've got too many hours of my life into this thing to sell it, really. I love it and I hate it. as in, there are days I'd sooner set fire to my Dodge than look at it.
my ford was a much better truck when it came to a cost of ownership perspective. but I got awful lucky. I bought a 7.3 for 2 grand, and it had a good injection system and engine.

the winter beater?
a 225 slant 6 84 ram I bought for 200 bucks. it's a real crapbox. you guys don't know how sad a day it was.

regardless, back on the topic of the crankcase, is there a procedure for testing the vac pump to see if it's pressurizing the crankcase?

I will do some more digging and see who I can persuade to make one, or make them do some digging, I will report my findings

thank you. I love my truck. I just. . .certain things make me wonder is all.

I've been advised to check the case mroe thoroughly for cracks, with Pro Star PRS50210 penetrant dye. Buddy thinks may case my simply be cracked slightly enough that I cannot see the damage, and THAT is why new gaskets didn't do much good.

As for the cold issue, I was told today by a machinist to use anaerobic gasket maker in a thin film on the gaskets, as I was going to try. He figures that might flex enough to absorb the expansion difference in the metals. he said if that doesn't work, I can pony up and try it. he figures it'll cost a good thousand bucks at least for one, so he told me to try every damn thing possible before I do it.

Don't piss anyone off by pressing the issue bud. I know I am asking something rather large here, and something that is not normally done.

As for winterizing it, canuckian tire just got in circulating coolant tank heaters (which I was told they didn't carry), and I read that cummins retailers can get a 4 gallon sump oil pan that has a bung for an element style pan heater in it. I'll call the western star dealer in Saskatoon about it (they sell the CHEAPEST genuine cummins parts around, and they deliver for free) and see what one would cost, or perhaps find a wrecking yard with one. I never mind extra oil capacity, and that pan heater would be awesome.

Thank you for the help man. this truck has been a real adventure.

Dang .. you are having some Chitty luck my friend .. the turbo can also be pressurizing the CC ..

if you care to check that its fairly simple ..

Get a 3 gallon Bucket and run a hose from the oil drain off of the turbo into the bucket .. start engine ( I reccomend doing with a warm engine ) .. stall test and build some boost .. if ou see a bunch of bubbles or a ton of air you know its the turbo .. if you inly get oil .. not the turbo @ this time .. ( happens all the time with Cat's and Cummins .. the big ones ..) .. :tu:

What do you mean by 'stall test'?
As in, attempt to do a burnout? Heh.

I'm fairly sure this thing will still light the tires. Also, if I run a hose from the oil line on the turbo, how would I tell if its puking oil or air?

Or do you mean to fill the bucket with water and submerge the hose end to see if its pushing air? That could happen, I'm making the switch to 0w40 right away. If they offered thinner stuff I'd use it.

Also, would checking vacuum be an effective way to check if the vac lump is exhausting into the crankcase? If not, how does one go about testing for that? A new vac pump is only a marginal cost when I am already buying gaskets and supplies, if there is not a way to test it I will be simply throwing a new one at it.