2nd Gen 12valve Ideas
Hey guys, i have been saving up for a while and i am getting quite close to having around 20,000 to throw at a 12v setup to put into my 61' chevy pickup to make a ratrod/sleeper out of it. I am wanting to build it up as much as i can now, but i am planning on continuing to add untill i hit the 800-900 horse range. Just need some ideas on what things to do now while i have big money such as tranny, clutch or torque converter, injector pump etc. Im a Duramax guy but way to lazy to fight that battle with a old truck.
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If I were going to dump a ton of money into a transmission and didn't want to build it myself, I'd call Suncoast. Spend some jack on the full billet unit and have it installed by a local Suncoast authorized tech and I defy you to break it in a streetable truck. If you break that thing within a year (good luck), they'll replace it for free, even if you use it for competition. While you've got the money, if you want big power, it's a no-brainer that you'll want a 180-215hp p7100 injection pump, lines, case, etc. The 215s make more from the factory, but around here the 180s are preferred for tuning.
Assuming you already have a 6BT to start your build and considering your ultimate goal, that's where I'd put my priorities. |
yeah thats what i was thinking, and definately the 215 p7100, my uncle works at moonlight diesel in logan, utah so i have a good hook up for parts and expertise just getting some more opinions, i really appreciate it, any sugguestions on a rear end?
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In a street truck I would go D80 trimed down with a disc conversion and Crome shafts, also might want a spool in there (LSD might live for a few rounds ) ...
Compunds are the only way to go .. |
In a street truck I would go D80 trimed down with a disc conversion and Crome shafts, also might want a spool in there (LSD might live for a few rounds ) ...
Compunds are the only way to go .. :tu: |
I'm definitely putting a compound setup on it, and I may also drag race the truck a bit, and maybe hook up to a sled now and again, just mainly a truck I'm planning on driving a little bit around town, but mainly just a high powered weekend warrior type of truck
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A D80 will do, maybe do a set of Progressive Coil overs, bags if you intend on hauling anything ...
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Okay, thanks for the suggestions
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Would like to see what your starting with if you get the chance
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Okay, I'm still a little ways out on starting that's why I'm looking for suggestions, but I haven't decided weather to get a used motor and overhaul/ refresh it, or just start from a short block. The short block will cost more to go that way but I will have a nicer setup in the end.
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If you start with an engine that need to be built , In my Oppinion you will know what you have and then you will know what you can get away with ..
And of course, starting with a short block is spendy ... |
Yeah I'm leaning towards a good salvage or something of that nature
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sounds like a pretty cool build ... for the rear end a dana 80 will do just fine with a good limited slip
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Cant wait for some pics ..
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Read bigblue24 junker drag trucks build on compd. 160 pumps cant still make a shit load of power compared to a 180 and 215 pump. Personally id get a 180 or 160 pump with 4k GSK and 7x.0012 nozzles cuz the 215s pull timing at full throttle. As the engine probably just a cummins genuine rebuild/gasket kit with headstuds, valve springs, pushrods, and maybe a cam and port/polished head. The bottom end on these are safe, i guess u can say, to around 800. Then a good set of compounds for the air.
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Yes the 160-180's are good , the 215 will make 600 with out tearing into the pump and adding parts .. sometimes more depending on the set-up ...
I dont recall there being anything that mechanically pull out any timing on the 215 pump .. where is it that this occurs ? |
Id have to go through all the threads ive read on this. I apologize not timing but pulls back fuel. But i believe the rack at a certain point turns the delivery valves back a bit. Ive read the mack rack plug does nothing for the 215 because of that, but helps in rack travel on the rest of the pumps... I have barely messed with these pumps and im sorry if im feeding u wrong info, im just transfering info from cummins forum, compd that ive been reading
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I have herd it before as well ... no one can seem to give me the info .. Even Comp D ..
If you get some real good info .. link it here .. i would love to read about it more please |
I will do that. Like you say everyone says that it does but never posts pictures or videos but ill keep trying to look.
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Kewl ...
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215 pumps pull timing as rack travel increases due to the retard notches on the plungers, up to 3* can be pulled with the factory rack pulg with the mack plug its about 4* at full rack. The rest of the automotive ppumps use flat top plungers so timing is not effected as rack travel increases.
For the mack plug it will add fuel to all the p7100's over the factory pulg including the 215 pump |
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Good info!!! Thanks for the video too!!
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Oh, Hell yeah , Someone with a ton of time on thier hands and armed with a brain ..
Thanks 94 !!! :tu: |
Thanks For All Of The Info guys! It helps a lot!
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Now I'm thinking .. maybe i can grab some more power and fun outta my truck ....
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How many ponies do you guys think that a NV5600 Would hold fairly safely?
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Dunno if there is an exact # that they pop at ?? :humm:
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Originally Posted by 4x4manonbroke
(Post 1065658)
Dunno if there is an exact # that they pop at ?? :humm:
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I would say conservitivly 600 -650 , just to be a "Safe" guess ... :humm:
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yeah thats what i was guessing
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BUT, its only a guess .... :c:
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All numbers are relative to the PO's treatment of the part. I was researching going 6 speed in my truck and the one constant that I found was guys dropping the G56 in favour of the NV5600 after the 500-600 mark, with many keeping the NV5600 together with over 800. Having said that, you need to look at what they have built them with and most definitely the clutch they are running. The biggest killer of Transmissions trying to hold that kind of power is heat (slipped Clutch) and wheel hop. If you want to bust up gears, keep randomly applying and releasing traction to those tires and you will watch things come apart much faster than a truck that is launched smoothly.
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Yeah, you start letting things slip and bounce around everything falls apart, but I have been hearing good about the 5600, as long as you use it right as with everything else
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Yes agreed.
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Good to know ...:tu:
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depends on what its being used for and how its driven really the 5600's are a massive trans and actually pretty strong.
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Right, thats makes sence too, i guess if your draggin it with 800 hp its not gonna last too long ... Vs DD with the same 800hp
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