Diesel Bombers

Diesel Bombers (https://www.dieselbombers.com/)
-   12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 (https://www.dieselbombers.com/12-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-94-98/)
-   -   95 Dodge Charging issues!! Please Help! (https://www.dieselbombers.com/12-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-94-98/120363-95-dodge-charging-issues-please-help.html)

kstaley 04-09-2014 10:07 AM

95 Dodge Charging issues!! Please Help!
 
Okay so a couple of weeks ago I was messing with some wiring on my truck and being stupid I accidently brushed some wires across some wires on my alternator, and ever since then I have a check engine light that comes on and my voltmeter is only showing that my system is only charging at about 11-12 volts. Other then that everything else is working exactly like it should. I put a new alternator in thinking that was the problem but, no dice still showing low charge. I am thinking that by brushing those wires across each other that I fried my voltage regulator in my ECU. Could it be anything else? I find it hard to believe that it is something terrible just because before I brushed the wires everything was working perfectly fine.

dieseldemon61 04-09-2014 10:39 AM

Check your fuses, I did the same thing a while ago. I just blew a fuse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

kstaley 04-09-2014 07:07 PM


Originally Posted by dieseldemon61 (Post 1057171)
Check your fuses, I did the same thing a while ago. I just blew a fuse.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I checked all the fuses and charged both batteries and still no charge on the system.

4x4manonbroke 04-10-2014 08:43 AM

Start verifying grounds ... Or a diode in the alternator is toasted

kstaley 04-11-2014 01:51 PM

The day this all happened I was messing with and cleaning my grounds, so I think the grounds should be good. I put a new alternator on 3 days ago and it still is causing me issues, so I'm thinking its not the alternator or grounds.

dieseldemon61 04-11-2014 02:40 PM

I know you said you checked the fuses but you did check the larger alternator fuse? The one that has two screws going thorough it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I think it's an 80 amp or 120 something like that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4x4manonbroke 04-11-2014 06:24 PM

Dieseldemon is on to something there ... i beleive you will find an issur in that line somewhere ... :tu:

kstaley 04-14-2014 08:49 AM

Yes I did check the alternator fuse, I did not test it, but I looked at it, and it was not blown. I probably should test it though.

4x4manonbroke 04-14-2014 02:26 PM

do an ohms test on it .. do a continuity test on alt ground ... its typically something easy ..:s:

dieseldemon61 04-14-2014 02:39 PM

Yea something I agree


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Yea something like that is prolly something simple, I agree*


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mysterync 04-14-2014 02:40 PM


Originally Posted by 4x4manonbroke (Post 1057725)
do an ohms test on it .. do a continuity test on alt ground ... its typically something easy ..:s:

Think I would check for voltage at the back of the alternator (big wire). If you have voltage there the fuse is fine. Tachometer working when the truck is running? I've got an external regulator I hook up to verify that the problem is in fact the pcm.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

coors_man_2005 04-16-2014 01:34 PM

Don't mean to hijack a thread. But I'm having a simular problem. With my half ton conversion. For all I know my voltage reg could be bad in the ecm. When I hook it the wires up my it will not charge at all. I tried the external regulator. It over charges the battery juicing 18v wile driving. My question is. The small wires to the regulator. One of the 2 should be hot with the key on correct? Thanks guys

mysterync 04-16-2014 01:50 PM


Originally Posted by coors_man_2005 (Post 1058044)
Don't mean to hijack a thread. But I'm having a simular problem. With my half ton conversion. For all I know my voltage reg could be bad in the ecm. When I hook it the wires up my it will not charge at all. I tried the external regulator. It over charges the battery juicing 18v wile driving. My question is. The small wires to the regulator. One of the 2 should be hot with the key on correct? Thanks guys

Yes. If wired correctly it won't overcharge if the regulator is working correctly. Do you have a rpm/crank signal to the pcm?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

coors_man_2005 04-16-2014 02:53 PM

No I haven't got any kind of crank sensor or rpm signal to the ecm. I haven't messed with any of the tach or rpm yet. I wasnt sure if the 12v setup would communicate with the gasser ecm stuff. I have all gauges working except the rpm and temperature.

mysterync 04-16-2014 03:48 PM


Originally Posted by coors_man_2005 (Post 1058057)
No I haven't got any kind of crank sensor or rpm signal to the ecm. I haven't messed with any of the tach or rpm yet. I wasnt sure if the 12v setup would communicate with the gasser ecm stuff. I have all gauges working except the rpm and temperature.

Must have tach signal to charge!

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

coors_man_2005 04-16-2014 10:30 PM


Originally Posted by mysterync (Post 1058070)
Must have tach signal to charge!

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks mysterync did not know that. Any idea how to make a gasser ecm read the 12v tach. Is it possible. Thanks a lot for the info

mysterync 04-17-2014 09:14 AM


Originally Posted by coors_man_2005 (Post 1058121)
Thanks mysterync did not know that. Any idea how to make a gasser ecm read the 12v tach. Is it possible. Thanks a lot for the info

I can't remember how the gas sensor/reluctor ring is cknfigured. I would vote it's got more notches. I'd probably just throw a manual regulator on it or switch pcm's. Just make sure the pin out is the same.
Is it an auto or manual?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

coors_man_2005 04-17-2014 03:05 PM

The 12v is manual the 1/2ton was auto

mysterync 04-17-2014 04:32 PM


Originally Posted by coors_man_2005 (Post 1058172)
The 12v is manual the 1/2ton was auto

Might be easier just to use the external regulator but I'm pretty sure if the pinout matches you could use a diesel pcm and correct the charging issue.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

kstaley 04-21-2014 04:06 PM

Well I ended up putting an external regulator on and the system is charging now but it is over charging the system. Now its at 18v at an idle. Any suggestions?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

The tach is working perfectly fine the only problem I have is the volt meter is only reading about 12v and my check engine light is on saying that my volts are to low on my charging system. So I ended up putting an external regulator on and the system is charging now but it is over charging the system. Now its at 18v at an idle. Any suggestions?

mysterync 04-21-2014 04:20 PM


Originally Posted by kstaley (Post 1058715)
Well I ended up putting an external regulator on and the system is charging now but it is over charging the system. Now its at 18v at an idle. Any suggestions?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

The tach is working perfectly fine the only problem I have is the volt meter is only reading about 12v and my check engine light is on saying that my volts are to low on my charging system. So I ended up putting an external regulator on and the system is charging now but it is over charging the system. Now its at 18v at an idle. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a bad regulator, a bad regulator ground, or a bad field ground. Guess it could be the key on source to regulator below 12v too.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

coors_man_2005 04-21-2014 09:13 PM

[QUOTE=kstaley;1058715]Well I ended up putting an external regulator on and the system is charging now but it is over charging the system. Now its at 18v at an idle. Any suggestions?



I'm battling the same issues I have tried several regulators ran grounds strait to the battery. Still can't get it. I don't drive it far so for now I just manually connect and disconnect the alt. Till I can get it lined out:argh:

12vcummins96 04-22-2014 10:53 AM

the 12 oclock position wire on the regulator needs to be as close to battery voltage as possible
what terminal do you have your field wire on
if you wired it backswards it will blow the regulator

coors_man_2005 04-23-2014 06:09 AM

I just cut the factory wires on the alt. We have a lot of old mopars. So I cut the wireing off one of our old carsand color matched the wires. From all the diagrams I have found I matched them. I'm going to buy another regulator and try that.

mysterync 04-23-2014 07:00 AM


Originally Posted by coors_man_2005 (Post 1058947)
I just cut the factory wires on the alt. We have a lot of old mopars. So I cut the wireing off one of our old carsand color matched the wires. From all the diagrams I have found I matched them. I'm going to buy another regulator and try that.

I use the typical 80's -90's Ford regulator without issue. I've seen them show a check gauges and show no charging voltage but that seems to be more common when not using the hot wire initially used on the alternator. I've not really looked into the actual that specific issue deep enough to give you an answer.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

coors_man_2005 04-23-2014 07:06 AM


Originally Posted by mysterync (Post 1058951)
I use the typical 80's -90's Ford regulator without issue. I've seen them show a check gauges and show no charging voltage but that seems to be more common when not using the hot wire initially used on the alternator. I've not really looked into the actual that specific issue deep enough to give you an answer.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2


I was going to use the ford setup then I seen moparman rigged his up with a Mopar setup and I was like hell I have plenty of them. But I have had nothing but failure so far. So I'm going try the ford I think. I'm not too concerned about the dash lights in my swap. Every light on the dash was on anyway so I took it apart and started pulling bulbs. Fixed it haha:tu:


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:52 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands