turbo help
 

I am looking to make 450hp with my 97 12 valve. It is a 215 pump here is what is done so far. AFC mod, 4k gsk with valve springs, 5x.014 sticks, #10 fuel plate, timing is set at 17 deg right now but will have to adjust when in truck, head studs. The truck is used off road but does see a good amount of highway time, will be pulling a 24' camper less then 5,000lbs but occasionally a heavy car trailer. I am trying to figure out what a good turbo set up would be, would like to do a single for now for money reasons. The truck is fairly light it is an 81 regular cab shortbed f-350 (shortened f-350 frame and one ton running gear) on 38's now.

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for a single I would run a 64/68/14 wastegated

That's the size I was looking at any recomendations on where to buy? I really want twins but in the process of buying a clutch so money is tight. I have my original turbo and I can acquire a ht60 to do twins but am really looking for a simple bolt on and run for now.

get one from a vendor on here can't go wrong with them

62/65/14. did 426hp with 5x12's 960 tq with some room to grow. awsome all around single turbo.

Stock HX35's are tougher than most people think. I made 433rwhp with mine, with not much smoke.....

Do you think I will be able to run the stock turbo until I can put some more money togethor with the setup I have? Maybe with some de-tuning sorry not trying to be cheap i'm just poor! I also don't want to damage anything so if I have to wait to get her going it's not a big deal. My main concern with my turbo choosing is I dont want any lag espescially for off road purposes.

5x14's and a stock turbo will be VERY VERY hot! you can run them but it will be hot. and off road i think you will be over fueled aswell. why do you want so much fuel?

you can make power with the hx35 ... but its real sketchy due to the imminent shaft shearing that typically occure or the wheel that pops due to overclocking the wheels ... with the correct timing and a well tuned AFC .. its do able .... but not for a lobg period of time ...

If you were to to @ those loads and such ... you would kill the turbo , probably wouldnt take long ... I'm sure your EGT's on the dyno were 1400* or better .. even @ 20* timing ... do able .. for a short blast though , Knowing the limits is half the battle..:c:

That is what I was worried about. As for the injectors they are not in yet (sitting on the bench) I got them for almost nothing I can probably trade them for a set of 5x.012s
I really want to be around 450-500hp but I would rather be on the lower side if it's going to drastically reduce fuel mileage:argh:

Your biggest issue at or around 450\500is gonna be ur transmission. And more specifically the input and tc .... As the input tends to shear or break at 1000 tq or close to it .... So at 500 ur really running the risk of eating a tc and input ... Possibly more .... Do homework .... And don't take the first suggestions and run with it .... Get informed and make smart decisions .... Or it will cost ya a ton ...:td:

I am running an upgraded nv4500 with 1 3/8" input shaft and a dual disc south bend clutch. I have built everything to take the abuse, tom woods driveshafts, np205 transfer case and front and rear ends have cro-mo alloy shafts.

Good deal .... Any idea what rods are in your engine .... If I recall .... Somewhere round 500 is topped off for the factory stuff. ... :humm:

i know guys with 900ish hp and stock bottom ends.

I agree I know a few people with around 900hp that have stock bottom ends and one of them has almost 400,000 on the motor. I really don't think I need to worry about any motor internals for the power I am looking at. Side note, sorry I didn't put this in the performance section just getting used to the site didnt know it was there.

No need to worry about your rods they will be just fine, question tho why did you put a 205 t case in?

I am putting the np205 in because I have several of them on hand. They are plenty strong enough as long as i'm not pulling with the truck also they take up less room and my rear driveshaft gets to be almost a foot longer which will help with the angle.

That it will, but if its too long it may need to be a two piece or aluminium

900 with stock rods ??? :humm:... not what i was told by the crew here at DDP .. gonna have to look more into that because if thats the case then hell i'm gonna shoot for at least 600 then .... LOL :rocking:

click the link in the video in my sing ... and remember there stock rods

wow .. i have watched most of your vids ... what do you make to the tires ? 94 ?

on that run power was around 850-900 rwhp ... will be more this year

oh damn ... well then .. will just shoot for around 600 then ... easy enough ..LOL

Hey also too , what are you running that bumps your throttle when your spooling down after a pull ???

and what RPM are you spinning topped out ? no AFC or Gov ?

also ... what turbo set up are you running and cam ? ... looking into a bigger build.... PM me with info .. :tu:

well my foot is what is bumping the throttle down at the end of the run, rpm depends on the track but normally 4600-4800, truck has an afc and a auto gov, for turbo just a single s480 and a hamilton 200/220 cast cam is what I had in that video

my truck is a regular cab short bed with 38's I will be very happy with a little longer rear driveshaft, it's already not that much longer then the front!

Running factory head ? and what studs r u running ? what psi are you able to see .. thought i saw the gauge peg out ..

Ah ok :tu:

And yes factory ported head, currently running arp 2000's, and psi depends on the track and turbo I was running in the video you were watching. But normally 50 -55 psi

Nice .... Sounds like a angry beast :c:

What was your drive pressure and how long did the turbo last? hx35 is not going to hold up for long at that level. If drive pressure is above 1.2:1.0 you are leaving HP on the table.

go for a BW 63/68 can be had as a drop in for under $1000

how are you selling this for under a grand unless its non gated?

Buyin in bulk allows a lot of wiggle room .... i can get a K31 for a S60 12.7 for 650 ...

Non gated. all you need is a hx40 downpipe and clamp.
68mm turbine NWG should have similar turbine flow of 65mm with dual ported WG.

thats what i figured thanks. cheapest i can build a gated is around $1200 but im not making enough for lunch. LOL

LOL....:pca1: