Power estimate
 

Hey guys im new here.
My plans are to convert a 5.9 into an 84 gmc jimmy.
Anyway the question I was going to ask was how much power and torque would be made with this setup and also would it be suitable for a daily driver ok the parts are all brand new and are as follows
98 12 valve Cummins 5.9
Apr headstuds 247-4205
Hamilton 165# valve springs
Hardened con rods
Milled intake
Ported cylinder heads
Runner style intake manifold
Gorilla girdle
Apr mainstuds and conrod bolts
220-240-108 csa cast cam .385/.385
Flycut pistons
Phatshaft 62 turbo
Borgwarner s474

Also does anyone know where you can get an intercooler to fit the jimmy

Thankyou your replies are much appreciated

line bore the cam install bushings and run a steel cam. Zach makes great cams but for that size IMO steel is the way to go.

What kind of power are you lookin to make?

what injectors you planning on running ??? and .. DD ? sounds like your gonna need a good trans for all that ...

5x14's ... my estimate .. 500 all day 1250 tq... all guestimate ... of course if the trans/clutch will hook it up ..

For 500 hp you don't need anything in red would be a huge waste of money. before the op starts buying parts they need to come up with a power goal. Just buying parts because there the biggest is not the best choice

I would be starting to worry a lot about how that jimmy will hold the weight of that engine, and how the trans and diffs will put up with it... a stock 5.9 governor springs, fuel plate, and with a 60mm HX35 will have the balls to break most ordinary tranny, tcases and diffs... I hope you have plans on putting a bigger diffs in that thing!

Ok so what are the limits of a 14 bolt diff and a dana 60 and the trans I was looking at is a gm 4l85e from gearstar which cab hold 1200 hp and 1000 lbft

Also would you be able to square off the chassis
What would be the actual limiting factors im hoping for at least 400 hp and at least 500 lbft as a minimum thanks

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Also I think I should upgrade the suspension from a larger model

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But if I can get more power reliably then that would be the go
Also needs to be good for a daily driver runnig a tranny that can handle 1000 lbft and a 14 bolt in the rear and a dana 60 in the front

This is all you really need for a healthy 400hp the rest of your list is extreme overkill for that power number

Your torque numbers will be twice the HP numbers! That is what we love with the Cummins 12 valve motors.

We love them ... but that 14 bolt won't :c:

the 14 11.5 will take more than a 70 or the 80 ... it has 2 pinion bearings and a nose bearing assembly that is plenty strong .... the same diff is in our D-max 01 LB7 and she puts out nearly 800 lb/ft and the only issue is the damn clutch 's and the trans ..

I have more faith in that 14 AAM than my 70 in my 95 ... and I have one that has 4.10's just like my 70 .... I was actually thinking about swapping them out due to needing gears ..( bad pinion bearings when I bought it ) .. now way out of lash :td:

The old 80 in my truck has seen much more torque than that on a weekly basis and has only let me down 2 times. once I broke the yoke off and second I broke an axle. personally I have more faith in the dana 80 than I do with the 11.5

The only issue with the Dana80 is deflection ..... the 14 bolt does have a pinion nose suport bearing and there fore is nearly impossible to cause gear climb or deflection ... which is why I have personally never seen one destroyed by power alone .... usually some other factor at work .... and yeah I have broke a few yokes my self ... but they are a real tuff diff ..

To work out diff ratios, what rpm would the power and torque be at and what would be the rev limit?

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To work out diff ratio's what rpm would maximum power and torque be made at and what would be the rev limit.

I second you are kinda shooting in the dark. Half those parts are unnecessary with out others. Do more reaserch and your Chevy drive train WILL NOT hold that kinda power Chevy uses a nv4500 trans that has no where near the threshold of the Cummins nv4500. You need to put motor in then mod the Cummins in small intervals to test threshold. My 94 Cummins has a tweaked frame already from only about 500 HP.

Yeah, I think it would just be easier to get a Ram, I was looking at a nice 95 2500 long bed single cab with 142,000 miles on it.
Put some Dana 80's in it and mod, the engine.
How much torque can the stock chassis handle anyway, also what do you need to get it to rev to 4000+ or even 5000 if that's possible

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Another question I was going to ask was, whether you can put the 24 valve heads on the 12 valve, or should I just get a newer motor?

stock chassis can handle a good bit if set up right, as for your head swap question yes you can but it will take some work to do it. Search is your best option

But what is the actual limit of the chassis with an upgraded trans and Dana 80's:humm:

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And what's the maximum you would recommend for a daily driver?

how can we answer your first question... seriously? 1000-1200hp ish maybe? go build a 50k engine and try to break stuff let us know what you figure out.

and after 500hp a 12 valve becomes a real pain in the ass to daily drive. the low 400's were just about right for me. this mid 500's stuff is fun but isn't so delightful doing what the truck was intended for anymore.

for a DD 500-550 is where I like to be. again on your chassis question it all depends on your set up and what your doing with it. The stock frame can take a lot of power if all your doing is driving and dyno events

Thanks guys, what do you mean by "this mid 500's stuff is fun but isn't so delightful doing what the truck was intended for anymore"?:tu:

it is a pain pulling the enclosed. i cover the pop-up camper with soot. it hazes while pulling. much more turbo lag so you have to learn to drive around the lack of throttle response. egt's get hot before boost if you arnt driving nicely. just all sorts of drive ability things that arnt so fun after awhile. because it makes more power its hard not being a kid again and blowing the tires off, which is super hard on the wallet. driving in the rain is kinda like riding a bike on ice a touch on the scary side...TOTALLY doable in a DD but just not super fun all the time.

Ok I see, what if you got one of those twin turbo kits?
Probably expensive but I think it would work to get rid of the turbo lag:humm:

Even with Compunds ... there is still lag and some smoke involved ... still have to wait for some spool to come through secondary turbo ... if you get them u will see .... a good single and piping makes all the difference :tu:.....

I have several friends running the 62/64/14 .... i beleive its a varient of s300 ?? is good to at least 450 .. and good on EGT's ... way good on DD and fun times:rocking:

in all honesty if you want to drive a truck every day that is over 500hp get a common rail, whether it be a dodge or a chevy who cares. they ride like caddies and when you dont want to make bookoo power you turn a knob and your to near stock power levels. love my old 12 valve but they have there limits especially when it comes to practicality and pleasure, its hard to find a good common ground with the mechanicals, you always want a little more

The compound I was looking at is a 62 with a s474, is this too big, and the problem with getting a later model truck is that they are at least $20,000 more here in Australia.
Everything more expensive over here:argh:
If you look on www.carsales.com.au you will see what I'm talking about.

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An example is a brand new dodge ram 3500hd Laramie 4x4 diesel, here in Australia it's $158,000:scare2:, but in the US it's $48,410. That's more than 3 times the price.

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Sorry to rant, but yeah the prices in Australia are ridiculous.