OK, so I've got myself a 12 valve. It has a 1/2 toast 47rh. she needs attention.
asking you guys where to take the transmission is useless, since very few of you are near me. I am, basically, in the ******* of the transmission world. There aren't many good shops around here. the only one I would trust quoted me 4500 bucks to rebuild the transmission. According to them and the people who recommend them, they are not in the business of rebuilding **** to break again. So that's for a "built" transmission. for a rebuild to OEM w/ updates, plus a better converter at another shop (3 hours in the other direction) which was recommended, I'd be lookin at about 3 grand.

4500 is time and a half what I bought the truck for. I have no doubt that they (first shop) would do a hell of a job (they made a 3 spd jeep tranny hold a 430hp 5.7 dodge), and stand behind their product. But there has got to be a way to keep the cost down somewhat. I don't really want to skimp on the torque converter, because Dodge has a bit of a habit of having ***** torques. so that's alright, I'll pony up the 1,000+ for a good one of them if I need to (unless someone has a line on something else, I am open to it).

I should mention, the likelihood of this truck seeing more than 250hp to the wheels is very low. the likelihood of it actually seeing 250hp at all is low, unless getting 100hp is bolt on easy outta these. It will see trailer loads in excess of 12,000 pounds at times, it will go through 2 feet of snow come winter while chasing deer, and it will go play in the mud at times. The only reason I'd want more power is because everyone seems to tell me that you don't see a big loss in fuel economy/reliability until you hit that 250-300hp mark. well, more powah for the same or better fuel mileage is something I won't argue with if it can be done on my budget, which is always tight.

Anyway, I was thinking of getting a reputable rebuild kit (clutches, seals, bands, steels, etc, you all know the drill) and taking that to this shop I know of, if they'd let me (and I'd find out first). I can drop the transmission myself to save 6-800 bucks, although I'd like to take it to em in the truck, honestly.

A quick search of fleabay (not somewhere I'd trust for a trans kit, but I gotta start somewhere) shows a range of 2-500 for a "kit". But I don't know how comprehensive that is.

Someone throw me a bone if they can here. If all else fails, I'll take the money I should get when the Powerstroke is written off and pony up for the big bad 4500 dollar rebuild (which, to quote the guy at that shop, "should make sure we never see your sorry *** again"). But I was hoping to stretch that to cover a few of the other, smaller issues with the truck as well.

This rig has the smallest "to do" list of any I have bought. And in 3 years, I've had 5 trucks. Would be nice to get em all in one go.

 

With the amount of weight your going to be pulling, i'd go with the full built trans. So it can handle pulling that amount of weight.

 

rebuild it yourself. you only need a few basic hand tools a couple good diagrams and a flow chart.
build your own valvebody. $100
get a good single disc converter. can be had for $6-800 around a 2000 rpm stall
you dont need any billet hard parts major $$$$$$ savings
consider a billet flex plate $450
new clutches and steels for the whole trans will be about $50
put some aftermarket servoes in it less than $100
a good strut and anchor and a 4.1 apply lever $40
you may need a few other odds and ends once you get the trans apart but it will be seals and spacer and junk nothing expensive.
and BAHM a fresh trans that will hold 400 hp all day and it cost you some time and about $1500. but you need to address it before it smokes itself because if you have to replace hard parts (shafts and such) get your wallet out its gonna hurt. $4500 for a transmission is obserd. its a damn torque flight transmission not a top fuel trans. also any trans shop should be around a grand to rebuild your transmission to stock specs. you build the VB and hand them the other servoes and such and it shouldnt cost you a dime more. there is nothing in a transmission that is worth $4500. untill you start buying $1000 shafts times 3 ext ext.

 

What do you mean about building my own valve body?
we got a Monster Kit for buddy's 07 4l60e, and got our way through that after 3 tries. dunno how this compares to that.

Where do I go for the parts you listed?

 

This trans is a good simple design. Not like the chevy ones that fail all the time!
You can get what you need here. Get a transgo shift kit for it. If you can change spark plugs, you can put this kit in.
Do get a tighter converter. Not too tight but 300-500 lower stall. It will drive better.
I'd suggest adding a clutch pair in the front too. Front clutch is a shifting clutch and gets a lot of wear. The rear clutch stays engaged in all forward gears. And get a manual ( book ) for it.
PATC 46RE 47RE 48RE Transmissions, Performance Transmission A518, 518

 

Sweet! Thanks for the info.

If all else fails, North American Power Train in Edmonton AB will sell me a mildly built (good for 300hp) new unit for 2500 bucks. I can afford that when I'm back from being up north for work (when I won't be using the truck anyway, so no worries there).

Also, Illinois, you haven't changed plugs on a 5th gen Honda VFR800. We'll say it is interesting. :P

My only issue with rebuilding it myself is potential downtime. when I am in town, I cannot have the truck down very long. But I will definitely find myself a manual for the transmission and see what can be done. Thanks!

 

the NV4500 is nice .... it does have its issues .. like the 5th gear backing off and such..

 

I wouldn't be hauling anything serious in overdrive.

For ***** n giggles I priced what I'd need to swap it to manual with new parts. Was not as bad as I thought.
Came out to a little less than getting the current transmission "built". The parts list wasn't fully complete (the major stuff was there. Gearbox, bellhousing, clutch/flywheel, slave/master, 29 spline T case, engine adapter, starter, etc), but I'm doing some more reading on this site to see what all I'll need. if I have thought of this, multiple other people have done it. Do wanna see if the driveshafts need to be modified, and how much. the truck sees a ton of highway, so that'll have to be outsourced if I do need to modify things. don't trust a zip blade & my welding skills. If a guy can get a new front shaft that'll fit, all the better. I'm of the opinion that if you can afford it (and it looks like I might be able to actually dedicate 4500 to this little problem), you should do it well.

It's tempting. I am glad I have time to think about this. I liked my 3rd pedal. It was nice in many situations. It was also a pain in the *** in many situations too. I'm not after 0-60 times (where shifting a manual with a 13" diameter clutch/flywheel combo is just not gonna be as fast as a well built auto), and I like the ability to fully modulate power to the ground. it comes in very handy.

But there is something to be said about "hands free" driving. plus, it leaves the centre seat more open for wimminz.

 

not trying to open up a dead thread here, but have you gotten your trans back healthy yet? if not i can help.