lock up switch
 

whats the best lockup switch for my 12v? when pulling my 20k gooseneck no matter how i drive it always shifts at 45 and SMOKES terrible id like for it to shift at 50 or 55 while hauling any ideas?

I had a bd torque lock on my rig until it went out. Now I have two separate switches wired in, one for 3/4, and the other one is the lockup switch.

But why does your rig smoke bad? I'd get that dealt with first.

It doesn't sound like you want a lockup switch, it sounds like you want a switch that will keep it from locking. You have no signature details and I have no idea what you have for a transmission or what's been done to your engine, so I have to assume it's stock. I doubt a stock 12V will pull 20K, but if you're doing it with a stock transmission, this complaint is soon to be the least of your issues.
Regardless, if it insists on locking at 45mph even under that load, it sounds to me like something is out of adjustment with your TPS. Either that, or someone deleted the TPS and the shift is locked at 45 by whatever gizmo is plugged in instead. Or it's a built transmission that can take the lockup under that load, but I'd think if you had a tranny that built you'd know and would have said something about it.
It will smoke more under load when the TC locks, because the rpms are low so it's fueling like crazy to make up for it. The more you have your pump modded for more fuel, the more smoke this is going to make- concurrently, the faster it's going to make the boost to pull you out of it.

You should really fill in your sig so we know what we're dealing with.

Like stated above, you need to fill us in with more info.

But if you're trying to keep out of lock-up until later, you can wire up a lock-up switch, but instead of grounding the wire, add power to it and it will keep it from locking up. Then when you get to 50-55 mph, you can turn the switch off allowing the transmission to lock-up and funtion properly.

and the higher your egts will be while making all that smoke ..... smoke is unburnt fuel and will cause higher cylinder temperature as well ..... tell us your trucks history as we can help better , knowing mods makes for easier diagnosis

Exactly. I'm sure 95% of this story is still waiting to be told, before we can have any clue how to help.

sorry its taking so long to respond but I have 4k gsk DAP 7x10 injectors #5 plate slid all the way forward with a 62/65 s300 turbo and when it locks up a 45 it just rolls out prespool smoke and the turbo wont build any boost until it gets up to about 50 mph then the smoke clears I want to move it where it locks up at 50 instead of 45

and the tranny has a precision triple disk converter and a transgo shift kit with 1 whole drilled

You need to dajust pre-boost smoke screw .. the TC isnt gonna help the fact that your pouring in too much fuel too soon .. Need to dajust your AFC settings to adjust for the smoke issue

The number 5 plate is A little more aggressive than a 10 plate. Plus it's full forward. I would back off the plate some and see If that helps.

Still, smoke is one issue, but it seems like if the TV cable was adjusted properly it would hang out of lockup a little longer under that kind of load. What happens when it locks at 45mph if you tap the brake?

Right.. A toggle switch is nice ..

With that said , if your in lock up and you enguage O/D .. you may hurt trans ..

but just a lock up , works awesome .. my friend has both O/D and Lock up .. with a new VB, man that thing shifts awesome ..

97Cummins- is who I am refering to

It all really depends on how well built your trans is. I hit my lockup switch somewhere in the neighborhood of 200 times a day, it's like shifting a standard to me at this point. The only thing I don't do is manually downshift in lockup, but everything else is fair game. This is made easier by the fact that mine isn't a toggle switch, and it's hands free, but I digress.

More on topic, (don't quote me!) but I believe that if rather than just tapping the lockup wire for your switch you cut it and splice in, you will have full control of your lockup. Which is to say, no matter what, lockup will not engage unless you hit the switch. This means no more driving it like an automatic though, using the switch becomes part of driving... not just a novelty. For the TC's purposes though, what it means is that he can run the revs up as high as he wants and it won't lock until he tells it too, which is- I think?- what he's after.

Could be viable ...

I know it's possible, most of the guys I know who have a lockup switch have full control over their lockup. What I'm not positive of is if it's done how I said it... might be.

JBear, I did exactly that on my old Auto. I was having all kinds of OD and lock up issues and the Tranny shop that build my tranny could not figure it out. I managed to get it to shift in to OD but it would never lock up. I gave up and wired in a switch that eliminated the origional circuit so that it was controlled just by the switch. I loved it.

Now we have the awnser ...

I'm trying to figure out a way to put a second switch in there, so I can have full control of the lockup or have it like it is. I've been too lazy to draw it out, but the guy who put this one in says it's possible so we just need to think about it. I really want to be able to take the computer right out of it, but I really want my wife to not have to worry about using the lockup switch too.

I remember an article on it, I cannot recall the site, but it involved using a three way toggle instead of a two. If memory serves, the lower position was off, the middle was computer controlled and the upper always on. I googled and found this https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...eXKJaxn1gao-Uw

A three position switch really wouldn't help me, as my lockup switch is perfect and I'm not changing it (I don't use a toggle switch). I'm pretty sure I can add a second switch to simulate cutting the wire completely though... just not today.

No worries, I just remembered reading about it and with this brain, I will take what I can get as far as remembering stuff lol.

I would love the wiring diagram on how to make a switch work .. hate my trans some times ..

Check out that link, I think it explains it, worse case search out the wiring on Google I bet you will find it sir.

I put a TPS delete from DNR Customs on and its exactly what I needed when im just crusin down back roads it locks up at 45 like normal and when im pulling a load 2200 rpm instead of shifting at 45 and killing it back to 1250 rpm itll shift around 55 mph and drop the rpms to 1500 with no smoke but a light haze at 2200 rpm pulling its exactly what I wanted no switch just a knob I had to turn till I got it set like I wanted.

So you installed a rheostat .... interesting , How does it work when your not pulling ? I been wanting to "play" with my truck ... I have to admit I hate when it down shifts and then re shifts ... maybe this would be a good fix for my truck as well ...

What is the range your using ( Voltage wise ? )

I got one of those. Had it about a week (roughly 1500 miles that week) and sent it back. It was never set where I wanted it for any given situation, so I was constantly fucking with it. Found it to be inconsistent and inaccurate, and when I tried to tell DNR about it I was told I'm turning the nob too far and I don't know how to use small enough increments. Not small enough? I couldn't even see it moving they were so small! He went on to pontificate about how many thousands he'd sold and that everyone loves them and there's never been a single complaint, which smells like a steaming pile if I've ever seen one. The odds against me being the only person out of "thousands" to have an issue with it are ridiculous. I'm sure he's still saying the same thing to anyone who has one that doesn't work right or just plain doesn't like it.

Regardless, somkin, what you're describing is exactly how a properly functioning TPS should work. It should lock around 45 normally, and incrementally higher based on load. How the TPS delete works is exactly the opposite, locking it at a fixed point regardless of load, unless you want to twist that nob every time you accelerate under a different load than the time before. To each their own, but IMO that's a PITA. Far easier to just hit a switch, especially if it's a pedal switch.

Yeah, thinking I might just go Manual/Auto ... then it will shift when I tell it, and down shift when I AM READY !!!

Think something is screwie in my truck ... AGAIN !!!