12V cheap performance upgrades
 

Goodevening fellow dieselheads. I recently bought my first cummins:jump:. I have been reading up about them for a while now and know them in and out pretty good.

I want to upgrade the motor for as cheap as possible before i go and buy big ticket items ex. turbo, injectors, etc.

truck has A TBE, BHAF, boost elbow, gauges, heavy duty single disc converter (not sure of compacity former owner did not specify)

star wheel is cranked up from previous owner. I dont know how much because i havent found a way to figure that out.

I would like to know about what order to do things, such as governer springs, DV, etc or if it even matters. Goal is to make the most power i can before upgrading big parts.

Thanks, Dan:c:

Definitely start with doing a grind on your fuel plate. Cost you no money, just a little bit of time. Do a little bit of searching many of guide to grinding your plate. Look up some guide for tuning your AFC also. Tuning the AFC correctly can be the difference between a clean running truck and a freight train under heavy throttle(which is not a good thing contrary to popular belief) After you get a little bit of extra fuel you can do GSK they make a huge difference. My 4ks pull like crazy.

I'd do injectors before DV's honestly. Unless you can get a set of like 181's out of a 180/215hp pump. Give you a slight upgrade but not too much.

yeah im thinkin of doin #100 plate or #0 dont know what is better and stupid question but do you have to torque afc housing or does it really matter. Also is there any good threads on how to tune afc? all ive heard bout was governer arm and im not really sure how to go about doing tht.

I'd go #100 if it were me, comes in the fuel a little softer down low. I don't think so as long as they are snug (obviously) Heres one of the main ones i followed. Once you understand what everything does it makes a lot more sense.

Here :pca1:

seen this manny times but .... what the heck is BAHF ?

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Ok, Class .... the following is how not to pop your HG

When you add fuel = more cylinder pressure
When you add timing = more cylinder pressure
when you add boost = more cylinder pressure

any of these combined can and will lift a cylinder head and or cause a HG to blow out between cylinders .... Been there doen that .. :argh::ouch: :td:

SO, if you insist on crankin it up you should first start with your foundation .... you will want studs, other wise the stock bolts will stretch under heavy acceleration and or load and can cause the HG to pop...( usuallly under the thermostat housing ).

BHAF is "Big Honkin' Air Filter"..... and there's a whole big variety of schemes, designs, and variables. oil-cloth, air, cylindrical, cone, etc, etc, etc

AHHHH , yes now i remember ... im gettin old and forgetful in my whole 34 yrs old here ....LMAO!!!!! :ha:

how about 3 or 4k governer springs can i go right to 4k?? also does it require any supporting mods??:tu:

your get more power out of the #0 i have the #0 with 370 marines and believe it or not i run pretty clean not much smoke after i fixed my boost leak:jump:

ok so what kinda mpg are you getting

4K requires timing and studs to be real effective , timing it earlier will also clear up a good amount of smoke also :tu:

so lemme ask this then. What should the next item be that i purchase for my truck?

Yes you can go to 4k. I would suggest buying the 4k kit regardless. All you have to do is leave out 1 spring and it makes it a 3k. The only real supporting mod you need is 60lb valve springs. You could put the 3k springs in until you decide to get the 60lb springs then put in the last spring and make it a 4k.

ight sounds good so i dont need studs for that then. any site you would recomend for the springs + 60lb ers??? puredieselpower.com???

Garrett at PDP is a great guy. Few places offer the 4ks and the 60lb together. Just check around for the best price.

alright good good. just outta curiosity i see you drive a 95 also what u got done to her:tu: ohh also ive seen titanium valve spring keepers. it says that it is highly recommended to use them when exceeding 3500rpm. Do i really need em?? or will they just wear quicker

I'm not sure ... :humm: .... never herd that ... will look in to it for ya , I have manny guys running 4K + ... I'll get back to ya ..

I think because the titanium deflects less and the locks are less likley to pop out ... just a top of my head guess :humm:

Look in my sig to see whats done to my truck. And the thing is yes you can turn 4k with the springs but how often are you going to really pull that high. I know if i'm hammering down playing around i very rarely pull past 3k so don't see any reason to rev that high all the time. Not on a 290,xxx mile truck at least.

The most important thing after you do 4k springs, timing and a breather is getting your afc tuned. I wore out a good set of hood springs adjusting mine and never got it perfect . I had a local guru do my timing and tune.