if there is a big leak the wastegate won't actuate. if he has a leak the truck will have power loss, if he has a leak he will have higher EGTs, EVEN IF the boost is fine, the leak may not be "big" but a loss in CFM making it into the motor will cause all of the above. His wastegate may be working fine, as he said the boost was fine, but with a small leak the engine has to work harder to get the same PSI#, over spinning the turbo and making it sound different than normal.

Hey Guys I'm back. Replaced the AFC boost reference and overflow valve. No change what-so-ever. Still high EGT's at idle and under heavy acceleration. Lack of "catching power" with heavy acceleration, vibration at idle.

Haven't found a shop yet I trust to check out the timing. The shop I took it to for the LP said they pressure tested for boost leaks and didn't find anything, but I don't know if I should believe them or not.

I have a new problem now. In cold weather the truck will jump out of drive and into N or R. I'm going to denigrate my sun gear plate if it keeps this up. It popped into reverse I was doin maybe 10mph and I thought I was going to toast my trans, its a goerend though and survived, but so far and it hasn't come obove freezing yet so I can't tell. But in this cold weather it wont stay in gear.

have u looked into weather or not the Wastegate will move ? try moving it by hand ...

if you can move it by hand then it needs to be replaced.

I have a list of things I need to check or recheck when I get home (at a university right now in a parking garage so I can't do jack squat really).

1. Check waste gate
2. Check / adjust timing
3. Fuel Replace FP gauge and recheck (even though shop was supposed to)
4. Check for boost leak (even though shop said the did that too)
5. Compression check
6. Injectors/pump?

If an injector or the pump was going bad would it absolutely have white smoke at idle?

:argh: :s:

if an injector was bad .. yes on white smoke ..if IP yeas to white smoke as well .... or no start ...

Ok. It only has white smoke at start-up in cold weather and only for a couple of seconds.

Would it be a good idea to get my valve lash rechecked when they do the timing. I had it reset about 3k ago, but who knows.

Mine does it too when cold .. a few seconds isnt a bad indicator ... a tune up might take care of most of that .... if not .. injectors could be dribbling a bit .. unless its like non stop your gonna be fine..:tu:... minor irritant IMHO ...

I'm not sure exactly what a "tune-up" consists of on a diesel. It's got a new Fuel Filter and LP, overflow valve, and AFC boost reference hose, and oil change. I know for a fact that some of the injectors leak a tiny bit form the grommet, and the return line appearently has a small leak. This was something I was told "not to worry about".

not necessarily. injectors will haze when they are leaking though

a "tune-up" is a valve adjustment in Diesel terms.... and i usually fill my new filters with ATF ... and run about 1/2-1qt per fill up ... extra lube and it does help mog a little bit ...

been running that for about the last 5 yrs in my IDI ford ... i was shocked when i pulled the heads and all was really spotless ... i also run 1 gallon of "dry" waste oil per 10 gallons on a fill in the ford .. no smoke but does seem to pick up power ... WIll be running 3 types of fuel on dyno to prove that it works.... :choochoo:

I think timing could have slipped, it's a reasonable possiblity, and mentioning that the turbo has 1mm of axial and radial play, could be another problem (you shouldn't feel the axial play (in and out) at all, that is a tight tolerance. and it could be the reason the turbo is surging more as well.. it won't be delivering the airflow as well either which will give you your EGT's, but it wouldn't explain a lower idle... the timing slipping to 8 degrees or worse could still have happened.

How does the truck start in the morning? if you find it fires up easier than usual, that could be slipped timing as well.

I would first look for boost leaks (you'll usually hear them if they're bad), but go over all the hoses, etc... the intercooler boots often will rub on the inner fender and get cut on there.
Next, check your valve lash
Then the timing.
by then it should be idling smoothly where it's supposed to be.
if it still has trouble boosting and that turbo indeed has the axial play you say it does, I'd get it looked at before it pukes oil into the intercooler and your engine runs away

Ok. Timing was off 8 degrees. I had it retimed and checked for boost leaks and fp. FP was good boost good. Runs a little better now. EGT gauge is bad, false readings. On another note unread another thread about my similar problems In that thread said that the power loss I was experiencing could be a result of badly adjusted Gov. Springs. This Same problem could also account for my idle not being able to stay constant as well as my powerless. My only other option as far as that is concerned I guess would be to have the governor springs recheck by another shop who can look at them without taking the pump out. I was trying to towa load today was a flatbed 16 foot trailer had a miniature backhoe on it probably weighd around 9000 pounds in total and I didn't have a whole Lotta power, telling you probably couldn't get past about 50 miles an hour if I wanted to. the motor would wind up and Boost would go it seem like it was trying to get more power but the truck want to go any faster. I had the valve lash adjusted about six months ago and I've only driven about 6000 miles since then. The fuel filter oil filter air filter Are all new. The transmission is a fully Built goeren with a tripple disk converter but I bought it used so I didn't know what kind of condition it was in when I bought it.

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To answer the other question the truck starts fine once it's warmed. In Cold weather or if it has been sitting for a while it has trouble starting up right away it will blow little white smoke, idle little rough for a few seconds then it will be okay

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To answer the other question the truck starts fine once it's warmed. In Cold weather or if it has been sitting for a while it has trouble starting up right away it will blow little white smoke, idle little rough for a few seconds then it will be okay

ok ... silly question .... has anyone checked your fliter/pre-filter in the bottom of the lift pump ? ... this little monster can cause all kinds of trouble ... if is also worth mentioning that a bad return valve will suck the power out of the truck by allowing loss of fuel pressure ... how much timing are you running ?

There is a Small leak in the fuel return line! Im not sure about the pre filter, Lift pump has about 4kmi on it

could be plugged and choking fuel flow ... :humm:

I doubt it, I've had the fuel pressure checked and double checked by 3 different shops in the last 3 months, all said it was perfect. After adjusting the timing (back to stock) the truck defiantly has a bit more ooomf from about 55 on up and at highway speeds. It top ends almost at 90, but still lacking on off the line. Occasionally when I jam the pedal from a gentle roll it will rev up a bit, then its like the throttle position sensor realizes what I'm trying to do and locks up the TC or downshifts for me. From other videos I've seen with the same modifications as my truck, my truck should have a way faster 0-60. When I get on it, off the line, it jumps rpms and boost, but when it shifts its almost like there is no gear ratio change. Is this the TC failing to drop to lower rpms before locking up. This problem is only occurring when towing (it behaved like the TC wouldn't even lock up at all), or from a stand still and low speeds, and occasionally when climbing hills at moderate speeds (45mphish) Also when I lightly touch the pedal from a stop sometimes its like the TC is already locked and ready to go and it's real torquey and good, and sometimes the rpms will slide up to 15-17 maybe 1800 before a the full torque of the truck is felt. Could this be a TC problem (still confused as it is a tripple disk that has seen no more than 500hp) although it did drive a short time with a stock vavle body on a goerend transmission due to the shop thinking the goerend VB was bad and so I had to send off for a new one. Could this have kept efficent fluid flow to the trans and messed it up? I'm just sick of my truck not running like it's supposed to, it also seems like no matter what I adjust my idle to, it will always drop to 650-670 in gear, and then sometimes vibrate. My gut tells me I either have a cracked flywheel or bad tc, maybe coupled with a failing IP (maybe poorly adjusted gsk) , in which case im screwed because that's about 4k worth of repairs. So with all that said…what now? I need to recheck the shaft play on the turbo, but i don't think there is any at all, I was over exaggerating with the 1mm, I don't think it moves at all

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Ok finally. HERE IS A VIDEO. apologize for the language, some idiot was driving into oncoming traffic. Towing an empty 16 ft flat bed. It does this under wot empty. I am accelerating from a stop at about half throttle.


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0-60 no load

Anybody?

What is your star wheel adjustment like ?

any smoke ?

the 0-60 .. NEEDS SOUND ... i cant tell from the viedo alone my friend ...:nope:

what exactly is your issue? the top video is about normal. @ about 45 they want to be in OD which sucks for towing. i suffer from the same problem and plan on bumping up line pressure when the temps get warmer.

It has sound you just need to turn the volume it's pretty easy to hear. The issue I'm having is I only have power in overdrive because it's the only time that the RPMs drop in the torque converter locks up within the power band. I also noticed that my truck doesn't wind past about 2200 rpm's in gear even though I have a 3K gsk want to watch other videos on YouTube the trucks wind up a lot farther and then drop back down before the torque converter locks. In the second video you can see them rpm's don't drop and I'm going through all the gears they don't drop at all through shifts. Only Four clicks on the star wheel, She only Blacksmoke's before the Turbose spools up when you romp it from a dead standstill or an overdrive when it lugs from the low RPM. You can also hear the excessive turbo Whipple and I rechecked the shaft there's absolutely no play

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Sorry for the bad grammar I'm using Siri Because I injured my hand

no it only feels like you have power in OD. when i was new to the game i thought the same thing. Damn this truck is slow how do i get into OD faster. no that the truck makes 4x the hp it used to i want to stay the hell out of OD so much. the -wipple- if you will is the turbo barking. it is coughing because of the sudden lack of rpms and thus being forced to slow down. its pretty bad for a turbo. super common in an auto truck. there will only be a small drop in rpms with your truck because the tq of these things is pretty awesome. if your tranny isnt beefed up much i would invest in a shift kit and a torque converter to firm up your shifts and hold better.


who the hell is siri? lol

I guess I'm still getting used to it. The transmission is a fully Bult Goerend. All I know is one day the truck started behaving differently than he used to Not my Goodway been driving me crazy Ever since

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All I knows the truck is not as fast as it used to be. Whenever I'm climbing a hill and step on the gas it's like I can't go anywhere but the motor will still rev up. You going to YouTube and watch any other 0 to 60 videos you will see that any truck with Gov. spring kits will Revilot higher than mine. Also Siri is an app that allows me to talk into my phone and words will show up on the screen I can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not haha

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If the damn RPMs would drop after each shift and torque converter would lock up at lower RPMs this thing would have twice as much power and be 10 times faster

sounds like your $5000 tranny is acting up. give them a call, ive never dealt with them but there is nothing but good said about them.

Unfortunately the trabsmission is used and past its warranty , but I will do it anyway.

sounds like a truck with stock gov. springs in the 0-60 run.

ALSO ... making or allowing the turbo to "Bark" is a good way to pop the compressor wheel , as the sound your hearing is the Boosted air blowing back through the comperssor housing ... basically flowing backwards ... not a good sign ..:td:

There's not much i know to do a out the backwards air flow, it does it really bad in OD and shifting into OD. It started doing it like that when the other problems started occurring. So do I have a Trans issue or a pump issue or both? Is the questions. It revs to 2800-3000 easily enough in N, different story as you can see in gear

Recent developments, nothing has changed, truck went back to idling at around 680 in gear warmed up. Still kinda sluggish off the line as you can see from the 0-60 vid.

Side note: It's been really cold here, and in cold weather (17-30) even with 2 cycles of the grid heater, she wont start up with out holding my foot on the pedal. Manually high idle it for about 6-10 sec's then it idles by itself, but really low for probably 1min or more. If I trie to drive it without letting it idle for less than a min or 2, it will miss on acceleration and pour white smoke. Behaves normally after about 5 mins of warm up.

At this point I don't know if there is even anything actually wrong with the truck or if I'm just going crazy. Other than a weak pump and a bad TC, all I can think of is the Governor springs were just never tuned right, that or, low compression which I doubt because the truck has 0 blow-by. :argh::s:

well your idle is to low. if you have to put your foot opn the pedal to start it you dont have enough start fuel. turn the idle up to around 800 idling and that will solve that problem. the white smoke is retarded pump timing or leaky injectors.

The thing is I just had the pump retimed and the idle turned up 2 months ago. And when the idle was turned up, It really pulled agianst the break at stoplights. If I put it in drive, and just let it coast I could coast up a small incline and probably get up to 10mph without touching the gas on a streight level ground.

When going say 50mph or so, and stomp on it, rpms, and boost go up, truck goes no where faster.

my truck will shift into OD without me helping it. probably does 40ish all by itself. i have a very low stall converter though. and if your making boost and going nowhere your tranny is hurt. it doesnt explain the smoke though. do you have a trans temp gauge? put a gauge on it and run it hard see what your temps get up to. its probably slipping like mad.

Just noticed because we have a bout of warm weather I also have white smoke mixed with "coal" when heavy accelerating or revving, for about 5 mins after start up and it doesn't smell like normal burnt diesel. It looks like it thins out when the truck is warmed up, but it's still a little there. Could this be injectors? Pump?

Timing ... :humm:

I just had a shop retime it and set the idle up. Right after that it was quicker off the line, but pulled against the brakes bad. It seems like it has slipped again. Is that possible? An why?

Here is another video. Hard to hear, but it stutters a bit around 1100 when revved. Coming back down on rpms, you can here it. Listen closely. This is after 10 mins of idling in 37 degree weather. Almost like a miss. Also bad vibration at idle only in gear, and a jingle sound coming from under truck.

Did you find the problem?
 

I'm curious if you found the problem. I have a similar issue and would like to hear the outcome.

Thanks