eletrical problem head light
 

I've been having a problem with the head light switch on my truck sine i've bought it i blew one out and replaced it the fuse seems to work once in a while but most of the time its shorts out ive tryd everything and have finaly came to find out that there are 2 plugs in the drive side wheel well, if i unplug both the front of the truck will light up headlights corners and markers... nothing in the rear,.. wont pop a fuse if i plug 1 in at a time the fuse wont pop dosent matter witch one i plug in as long as its only one plug but if i plug both in it will pop the fuse... ive followd the harness to the back of the truck but everything seems fine no cuts or breaks.. idk what to do anymore this has been a pain since day one!! it seems to blow mostly in wet weater.. has anyone had an issue like this b4? any ideas or helpfull info.. im all out of ideas!

There is a updated part with harness available from mopar that deals with the switch issues, in some cases the switch would pull amperage due to faulty contacts. However you might use a jumper with a bit bigger fuse and check the amperage across the circuit. If your seeing much over fuse rating or find low resistance to ground then you'll need to diagnose a wiring or light issue. Have you checked your bulb socket's and such?

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yea all the sockets look fine front and rear I got the new switch and upgraded plug from mopar had to cut off my old plug and splice the new one in.. seems like the wires are fatter off the new plug.. when i put it in i blew 3-4 fuses then the next day i came out and tryed again and it was fine.. It lasted a good 2 weeks then it went out during a snow storm!! and it hasnt worked ever since goin on a week! Its been doing this since I've owned the truck!

Check amperage across the fuse with a jumper.
Check resistance to ground on each wire that you feel is affected with the circuit completely unhooked.
You need to take into account when the fuse blows, parking light stage of the switch or headlight stage of the switch? If it wont pop a fuse in parking light only then you know to start with the headlight circuit. Sounds like you could get a wiring diagram and start at those connectors and chase it back to the rear of the vehicle. Are you positive of your wiring at the switch? No possible contact point at your splice?

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The fuse blows in parking lamp and head lamp mode. I used connectors and shrink wraped every wire indavidually. wanted to make sure nothing would happen back there.. the bigger the fuse I put in the slower it will pop.... like if i put a 10 amp it blows as soon as i start pulling the knob and if I put a 30 amp its will come on for a quick sec. then blow out.. I gave everything a good cleaning today going to let everything dry off nice it seems that when its dry and stays so for a few days it will be fine until its rains or snows... the two plugs on the fender lead to the back portion of the truck, Im thinking there might be something going on on the back half of the harness that I cant see maybe behind the fuel tank.. I just don't get when I unplug one or the other of the plugs it will be fine but both connected together it blows..

Im guessing your popping fuse 18?

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yes #18 park lamp 15amp fuse..

Dual or single rear wheel?

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single rear wheel.

That means there should be a total of 7 black and yellow wires that branch from this fuse. One that comes from the headlamp switch to joint connector a (rear of the fuse block) from joint connector a pin 4 carries current to a connector.
This connector feeds:
Left park
Right park (another connector inline past initial connection)
Pin 86 in the trailer tow relay (optional)
Left taillight and right taillight (both connected via connector after initial connector, this connector also feeds the connector listed below.
Licences plate lamps (another connector inline past initial connector)

Typical diagnosis would consist of following said wire and look for damage/bare spot. Removing all bulbs (which would eliminate the connection to ground in case of shorted bulbs and would allow you to visually inspect socket. ) if this doesn't offer results a fuse buddy and amp probe would be installed and a wiggle test done, watch for increases in the amperage as wiggled. The headlight switch is already eliminated so thats not a concern. It may be possible if finding it is impossible to rewire the circuit.

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