Loss Of Power
 

i dont know if it is to serious or not but though i might bring it up when excellerating my truck looses power for about a secound and then gets it back. you can sorta tell by the feal of the truck but you can really tell in the boost guage and the wistle in the turbo. when it losses power for that short secound i loose about 3-4PSI of boost, any thoughts

Intercooler boots may be leaking , Check for loose clamps

Any pattern here as to when it happens, under acceleration, cruising, when pulling any constants in the power loss would help tell more about it.

you can only notice it accelerating empty and with a trailer, you can somewhat notic it when cruising with a trailer

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well i checked the intercooler boots and there fine it olmost seems like when you are post heating your truck when the idle gets low for a secound then gets back to normal

Thats your Grid heater's Cycling , its normal

as for your loss in power under hard acceleration ,

Maybe your motor mounts , sometimes when the drivers side goes bad and you put a good load on her it torques the engine up on the drivers side and can pull your boot just about off off and when you let off it it comes down and the boot goes back on , Found this on a 94 12V

Its a long shot but has happened , Do you have Spring Clamps if not you should

Go over your boots and look for holes and signs of slipping , check around inner cooler too ,

Do you have your waste gate disabled ?

Check your wastegate for leaks. If you're loosing 3-4 psi of boost and you boots are good and tight then the only other path of leakage is at the wastegate.

well its not really under hard acceleration even if you go normal it still does it. i will double check all the boots today and let yal know, no i dont have spring clamps and when i get my new blue boots i will get some. yes my wastegate is closed off with a hose clamp for right now untile i get my new turbo upgrade next month then i will instal the boost elbow

Run a small bead of silicone on the inside of the boot's when you reinstall them. We have this problem on the DMAX's and the silicone helps keep it sealed and holding tight. Check you hose for cracks. Depending on how long you have had it clamped off it could have started cracking and leaking air.

You need to cut your WG hose and stick a bolt in it and then clamp it

well im just waiting on my new turbo with a boost elbow already in it, could me problem be coming from my governor spring

Id consider checking fuel pressure.

When’s the last time you changed your fuel filter? You might also check the Lift pumps mesh screen.

lift pump is fine fuel filter should be fine im going to try and slide my fuel plate forward today and see if it makes a differnence

Hence the operative word. Don't forget the little pre-filter screen at the fuel heater too. That one bit me when I first started modding my truck.

Anyone think this may be Timing Related ?

That's what I was thinking Johnny, sounds like the classic pre-filter screen blockage.

thats down in the tank isnt it, even if it would wouldnt it have the same symptums acruising that is happening when accerlerating

Its on the LP i have a diagram somewhere ill try to find it.

The maintenance schedule in the owners manual indicates the "strainer" should be cleaned at 12000 mile intervals at the same time the fuel filter is replaced. This is for both the "A" and "B" maintenance schedules.
In the instructions in the service manual for replacing the fuel filter it states "Whenever the fuel filter is being replaced, the pre-filter in the fuel heater assembly should be removed and cleaned". In the instructions for cleaning the pre-filter the cleaning of a "screen" is mentioned. So it seems that this "screen" in the service manual is one and the same as the "strainer" in the maintenance schedule.
Debris in the screen can restrict fuel flow and result in low engine power.
Individual gaskets and parts for the prefilter assembly are not available, but a pre-filter repair kit is available from:
Dodge dealers for $42 Part number 04762962.
Cummins/Fleetguard for $6 Part number 3845400-s.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...e_filter01.jpg It consists of a strainer screen, gasket for the sediment bulb and a small pressed steel nut.
The parts guy did not know what I was talking about, took quite a while and a lot of polite diplomatic discussion before he let me look at the diagrams and point it out to him ( take a Xerox copy of that page of the service manual!)

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...e_filter02.jpg Before I started working on it, I sprayed the whole area around it with using the Spray Can version of GUNK engine cleaner, and then stuck a hose nozzle in there and blasted it clean.
Before de-gunking ->

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...e_filter03.jpg Much better after de-gunking.
Only two wrenches are needed to do this job - 17mm, 24mm
The first is a 17mm open/box wrench with a 12pt box end. The 17mm box end of this will be used to remove the screen/sump assembly. Much better if one stands up beside the truck and works from the top. I thought it might drip and Nedra doesn't like oily stuff on the driveway so I put my oil change pan - a huge diameter 4 gallon one under the pre screener location. Highly recommended because a few ounces of fuel will drain out when the strainer sump is removed.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...e_filter04.jpg [Sediment Bowl bottom]
If you loosen it from below, be ready for fuel in the face - it "will" drip all over you and if you spill it you will be doused with half a cup of Diesel fuel. Some people report that a long extension with a u-joint allows you to stay out of the fuel flow when the nut is loosened. Others can reach the nut from above.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...e_filter05.jpg [Dirty strainer inside bowl]
The second is a 24mm box wrench or socket to remove the pressed sheet metal nut that holds the strainer in place (inside the sump). It isn't much more than finger tight, but if you aren't bionic and need a wrench - 24mm is the size. Once I got it off I cleaned it up with a rag. It was not particularly dirty.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...e_filter06.jpg [Disassembled fuel strainer]
The gasket had started to crumble around one corner of the outer edge. It probably could have been reused but since I had a new part, I installed it. I also installed the new strainer - they come together in a kit with strainer, gasket, and nut. I saved the old ones in a self sealing plastic sandwich bag.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...e_filter07.jpg [Cleaned Bowl and New Strainer Parts]
When I replaced the thing I pre filled it with clean fuel to minimize the number of strokes that would be required on the hand priming pump. The pre filling also allowed me to lubricate the new gasket with some diesel fuel before installing it. I stood on a little rubbermaid stool to give me better access and was able to get it into position and the threads started with out spilling more than a couple of drops. I ran it up finger tight and then using the 17mm box end I tightened it snug but did not get into a contest of wills with it - it was not all that tight when I took it off and it is a rubber gasket - so I used that as a gage for how tight to make it when I put it back. I gave the priming pump about a dozen strokes and then started the engine. It ran smooth with out any roughness as if air bubbles were going through it. Pretty easy to do, all things considered. I probably won't look into it again other than as part of trouble shooting should there be a problem until it gets to 200K. As the pictures I took show, my usual fuel dealer has clean fuel - there was not much in there.
Fitch In Southern California
Posted to the TDR Forum by Mikepvg: While the strainer assembly is removed, check the Fuel Heater Element quad O-ring gasket on top of the heater element for signs of deterioration. After you remove the pre-filter bowl, you have access to the allen screw that will allow the heater element to be removed. NOTE: This screw appears in the service manual diagrams, but no mention of it is made in the instructions. All can be accessed from top of engine compartment. The pre-filter screen kit has the quad ring for the BOTTOM of the heater element & is a different size than the top one. One member posted that replacing replaced BOTH quad rings reduced the amt of blue smoke on start up & WOT substantially. The PN is Fleetguard 3834185-S & cost only .66 cents from Cummins!

its not that hard to do that is it

Very easy

I haven’t done it on the 98 but I did it on the 97 when I first bought it. Its really easy but you will get diesel on you.

im a damn diesel mechanic diesel dont bother me i swallowed about a half a gallon of diesel sifoning my tank to replace my fuel level sender so it dont bother me

I love the smell of Diesel but people look at me weird when i smell like it......

oh well

any update???

not yet havent had time to get to it thinking monday but how exactly do you get the bowl off the block just by hand?

ok guys i talked to the local diesel performance shop and he said its cause i need some aftermarket dv's