how much can i turn up my 12 valve
 

I have a bone stock rusty 96 cummins that i want to turn up alittle but i dont want to ruin my automatic transmission what would you guys suggest just turn the fuel up alittle

I'm having my share of problems with the standard tranny holding up (~300 HP),

I guess you should post a bit more info about how you use the truck, and someone with auto tranny experience can help... If you don't use your truck for towing, you can probably put a bit more power down, maybe just slide the stock fuel plate forward would wake it up a little bit without just ripping things to shreds.

I'll let an auto tranny person have the last say though

I drive the truck every day to work i dont tow alot but i do haul hay 2 5x5 round bales at a time and large loads of fire wood in the box frequently

I would *guess* that if you manually over-rode the upshift so it's not at full throttle during a shift would help the tranny cope with the added power... Also a good tranny oil cooler is essential even without power upgrades

My brother just traded his 95 dodge cummins with an auto. He ran it for a good while with someone upgrades without known problems. He slid the fuel plate all the way forward and noticed a good chunk of difference in throttle response, but it does hurt your mpg's a bit. He also took out the turbo silencer ring. There is no difference in power whatsoever, but you will notice a WAY better sound. I suggest you get a straight piped exhaust before doing any of this. Good luck to you!!!

Does broken off count as strait lol i have the four inch pipe waiting to go on her i just want alittle more power 185 hp isnt cutting it any idea how much power sliding that plate makes 250 hp would be plenty but i dont know if the overdrive auto trany can handle it

I think your ass-dyno would already be pleased with just sliding the plate forward... a 3K governor spring kit would do the rest, and that wouldn't jump the torque up too much for the tranny, just prevent it from starting to defuel at 2200

If you slide it all the way forward, I think it should give you around 70 horses. That should get you to your goal. I would suggest a better intake setup and an afe air filter. Although the plate helped, it felt like it had trouble catching enough air with the factory setup.

I've been talking it over with the auto guys around here...

Seems it's the low end grunt that blows up the trannys...

I'm not familiar enough with these automatic trannys but if that's true, just yank the plate and set your AFC full forward but crank the starwheel towards the cab for a slower spool up :rocking:

:humm::pca1:

I think the best and safest thing would be to just do the 3k GSK, as that won't increase total torque, it'll just make it rev more freely, as opposed to starting to defuel at 2300 RPM

fuel plate f/f exhaust bhaf 3ks boost elbo and some guages should do you good the 3ks will make the truck totaly diff.. pedal will be touchy and yould have alot more passing power.. thats what i have done to my 96 and it beats the hell outa my stock 95! been dd and towing with it like this going on 2 years and have no had one problem.. my trans was new when i bought the truck also..

I'm with this guy and this guy only on this thread^^^

gyayo has it all down on this one. I would do that setup. Some people will tell you to pinch the wastegate line, but NEVER do that. It will allow unlimited amounts of boost to your turbo and can cause some damage. Boost elbow like gyayo said is the way to go with that department. Just a heads up there.

From what I read, Dodge detuned the engine for the autos, because before the detune the transmission couldn't hold that power. If it's your only vehicle, I wouldn't add any power until you have a built up tranny... Some last a while with more power, some blow quick on stock power.

Maintenance is a big factor on engine durability at stock or turned up engis and transmissions. If it is a weekend hauler or hunting trip truck, turn it up some. If it's your only vehicle and you have no backup, invest in some transmission upgrades first. Even if you don't turn it up, some suggest at least getting a deeper transmission fluid pan if you are hauling alot. The extra fluid will keep your tranny happy under a big load of firewood or with some added power.

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Oh yeah, get gauges first!!!!!!

How many miles are on the truck? Was the tranny maintenanced? If you dont know the history of how often the fluid was changed I personally wouldn't change the fluid. Changed the fluid in mine and no joke it didnt last 800 miles before the trans went.

If you know the history and its been changed every 25,000 miles then keep up with that. Scoot your plate forward and dont worry about it. A well maintenanced transmission can hold up better then one thats been neglected.

Id enjoy hearing how many miles are on the truck though?

Attachment 35969 This is the first time I've ever heard of changing the fluid killing a transmission. I don't even know where to begin trying to address thinking about such a thing.

Transmission fluid is a hydrolic detergent that suspends metal shavings and other particles in the fluid to be collected in the tranny filter. After time, heat and other minor factors, it loses those properties and the shavings begin to fall and settle in the torque converter, tranny pan and anywhere else there is a low-flow of fluid. If the fluid has not been changed every 25,000 miles or every 2 years, which ever comes first. Then metal begins to settle. Now let me explain this in a time line format.

The truck is bought new and used for every day work, the tranny never sees a fresh bit of fluid for 150,000 miles. This guy comes across the truck and figures heck a good tranny fluid change and a filter will do it some good, wrong! Sense the fluid wasnt changed for 150,000 miles then metal has began to settle and collect in notorious areas, he changes the fluid and the fluid begans doing its job, cleaning! It picks up all that metal and carries it to other places, like through the valve body stopping up valves causing his transmission to loose pressure. Any automatic transmission person knows automatics work by pressure, not enough pressure will smoke the clutch packs and in turn cause your tranny to start slipping, might as well say by by to that torque converter to, its gonna get eat up as well.

I believe many other automatic fans will back me up on a transmission neglected and not seeing a proper oil and filter change is best left alone, do not change the fluid if you dont know the history of the trans. Now if it has lows miles by all means change it. Im not telling him not to change it. Im telling him if it has high milles and he has no idea the history, id leave it a lone.

:humm::humm::humm::s:

Im in shock no one has ever heard that before? Ive see it on the forums many of times, had multiple transmission shops tell me that, and seen it happen first hand on my 47re, not only that but my father who was a mechanic for years saw it multiple times. Doing a tranny flush will most definetly open a can of worms on a high mileage transmssion if the transmission was neglected on fluid changes. Surely im not the only one to know this?

Never heard it.
All the settling I'm aware of took place around that nifty little magnet they thoughtfully put on the bottom of the pan. Attachment 35957

Cummins detuned al 5.9 Cummins told me the only thing holding the 5.9 back is the Dodge truck

For sure, but the stick is a bit stouter than the slushbox.

Ya, but I thought the auto engines were detuned even more than the sticks...

Turn up the line pressure a bit in the valve body; better yet get a shift kit. Make sure you call the company to get what YOU need, look into governor springs and valve springs. Biggest bang for the buck. Won't harm the trans either. Grind yourself a 100 fuel plate and keep in stock location. Do a BAHF and straight pipe/Hiflo muffler and lately bump the timing to 16*. I'd call it a day and after that if your not ready to drop a grand on your trans.

I agree, if you've ever taken apart an auto you'd never do a " flush".