Cleaning Your DPF
 

From the Cummins news letter

Operating Tips For The Diesel Particulate Filter On
Cummins 6.7-Liter Turbo Diesel.

Dodge Ram Heavy Duty pickups equipped with the 6.7-liter Cummins Turbo Diesel offer more horsepower and torque than ever before. They’re also the first and only diesel pickups on the market to meet 2010 EPA emissions requirements. To achieve these unprecedented levels of cleanliness, the 6.7-liter Cummins Turbo Diesel incorporates a device known as a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) in the exhaust system.

What Is A DPF And How Does It Work?

The diesel particulate filter captures particulate matter that is a normal byproduct of the combustion process as it passes through the exhaust system.

As you run your Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel, sensors in the DPF measure the amount of particulate matter that is accumulating in the filter and send that data to the Electronic Control Module (ECM), the computer that controls the engine and aftertreatment.

Periodically the ECM will start a self-cleaning process called regeneration that raises temperatures in the DPF and oxidizes the particulate matter. This process is similar to the operation of a self-cleaning oven, releasing only harmless gases into the atmosphere.

Regeneration is virtually undetectable to the driver. Under normal driving conditions, no action is needed to start the process, and there is no impact on pulling power, acceleration or responsiveness of the engine.

What Do I Need To Do To Clean The DPF?

Under normal operating conditions, you don’t need to do anything. However, if you do a lot of in-city driving at lower speeds or extended idling, your engine may not be working hard enough for the self-cleaning process to take place (we’re talking about hours of idling, not just minutes). If this happens, particulate matter will accumulate within the filter. If it reaches an 80% level, you will see an alert in the information center of your truck’s overhead console. This is not dangerous, but it does tell you that the engine needs to be given a little more “exercise” which will correct the situation.

To start the self-cleaning process, all you have to do is drive your Dodge Ram at 50 mph or so for a short while. Typically, about 45 minutes is all it takes for the system to clean itself, and a message in the overhead console will tell you when the self-cleaning is completed.

Do I Need To Take Action Immediately?

It takes a number of days to go from 80% to entirely filling up the DPF, and it won’t affect performance of the engine or the DPF, so it’s not something that has to be done immediately.

However, if the DPF exceeds 99% of capacity before a regeneration takes place, you could cause permanent damage to the filter. Again, an alert in your truck’s information center will appear as you reach this threshold. Simultaneously, power and torque will be reduced so that you can drive your vehicle to an authorized Dodge dealer for service without causing irreparable harm to the filter. However, if you choose to ignore these warning signals and continue to drive for an extended period of time, the filter will be ruined and need to be replaced in order to restore full power and torque to your truck.

A Cleaner Tomorrow Starts Today.

Driving a Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel means you are doing something good for the environment by reducing emissions. Take good care of it, and it will take good care of you for years to come.

What a PITA for you guys. How often are you guys having to do this?

its not that big of deal i've only got 2500 miles on my truck and the 80% full warning happened twice. when i read the book i realized i just need to run the **** out of it and it will take care of the rest. oh yeah and the harder i run the truck the more my fuel milage goes up :U:

No kidding. More fuel is used for power+heat and the computer dumps less straight into the exhaust just for heat. Another reason the DPF hurts the environment more than it helps.

All the DPF mombo jumbo is to keep the tree huggers happy!

I have 21K on my truck now. The light has came on three times. 4 weeks ago, without light coming on, the truck sounded real bad and it was not drivable at all. As soon as I put it in drive and tried to push the accelerator, it died. And FYI, I drive hard, every day. Never let her idel. Shortest distance is 27 miles. Each day I drive to work and back which is about 80 miles. If I haul my boat, it a 5 ton boat. If I haul the trailer, it is 14000 lbs trailer. So, I am not a casual commuter.

So, I called the Dodge dealer service department and talked with the tech. He said that it has to get towed to the shop. But the problem is that under warranty, they two it to closest Dodge dealer to my house, so, that was not acceptable.
Make the long story short, I took the exhust and the damn DPF off. The damn thing was solid closed off with soot. I used my shop vaccume and cleaned it from both sides. Then placed my air hose, and used a big towel to close around it. I let high pressure air through. Put things together, and it was just fine.
Now I have to take her in for 4 TSBs. The tech said that he has to drill the turbo and install a cleaning port into the turbo. I sure do not like this idea!
It is TSB number : 11-001-08
Group Exhaust
Date May 21 2008
Subject : 6.7 Turbocharger Cleaning Procedure.


Now I have this simple question: These new DPF crap that suppose to be Environmentally super dupper; but it is using %25 more full. And the refineries have to use energy to process that %25 extra fuel that we now use to be environmentally friendly; and also the tanker trucks have to use more fuel to deliver that additional %25 fuel to us; how are we going to be environmentally friendly by using more fuel?

tell us more bout this TSB when you learn eh

"Now I have to take her in for 4 TSBs. The tech said that he has to drill the turbo and install a cleaning port into the turbo. I sure do not like this idea!"

Here are the codes for the TSbs

P1451 - Diesel Particulate Filter System Performance.
P2463 - Diesel Particulate Filter - Soot Accumulation.
P242F - Diesel Particulate Filter Restriction - Ash Accumulation.

Next tSB,
P0101 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Rationality
P0128 - Thermostat Rationality
P061A - ETC Level 2 Torque Performance.
U1421 - Impausible Ignition Key Off Time Received

Next tSB's Code might be P2262 which is Turbochrger Boost Pressure Not Detected - Mechanical.
This happens when soot covers turbo fins and inside the housing.
All new turbos already come with the cleaning port. The cleaning process is done after engine is warmed up to 1250 F and then, shot down, the cleaning flouid can get attached to the port unside down, start engine, rev up, squize the juice inside the turbo. This process has to get done 4 times. After that, it should be clean.

The last TSB is the one that requires an Update Kit 10138-UPD.

Good Info Thanks for Posting

My brothers DPF, Cat, and DOC are in his shed awaiting "cleaning". In the mean time he's using a 5" TBE until the other stuff is cleaned.:U:

Their mentality is "If it LOOKS clean it must BE clean." They don't see the total impact that development/testing, manufacture, maintenance, higher fuel consumption, shorter engine life, cost of replacement and disposal the DPF really has.

The visible soot is why Diesels have always been perceived as dirty when the g@ssers have always (and still do) spew far more and far worse pollutants, they can't see the g@ssers emissions.

The problem is the USA is anti-diesel. They are trying to force diesels to be near-zero emissions in the two categories they know cannot be easily met due to their natural soot emissions, hot combustion and lean a/f ratios.

The best thing for anyone with a DPF/NOX cat to do is remove it entirely and program out the regeneration/post-injection cycle. Its better for the environment, better for the engine and better for the owner.

The last email I got from MadsElectronics; it is all being taken care of by Smarty. They have given this priority now and it should be out soon. I have my standing order for one!

This was a new problem on me as well. This is my 3rd Dodge CTD. '03 Quad was first (best one yet), then the '06 Mega and now my new one. I picked this truck up last Friday from the custom shop where I had my framework done to stretch the bed into a long bed. Drove 70 miles home, truck sat 2 days while I did the other add-ons and when I drove it yesterday the 80% warning came on in the center display. Called the dealership and they say bring it tomorrow. Before I even got there, the 100% Full - See Dealer text popped in and the truck ran so rough I didn't think I was going to make it. They tell me that they have to do most of what has already been mentioned in this thread. Drill Turbo port, pull the Blu-Tek system apart and clean the entire thing from the turbo to the tailpipe including this ridiculous filter. They say that I should never see this problem again after the work is done. I don't necessarily buy that but I will give it a shot.

I went to the MadElectronics site where the Smarty still says coming soon, but there was not much more info on it as to what all it will do. Since you got an e-mail from them, I am wondering what exactly the unit will do to the system. Will it disable the DFP so it can be completely removed as ForcedInduction mentions in his post. Also if you know, does that affect anything else within the ECM that would make the truck not run as the dealers threaten if any mods are done.

Does anyone here driving a 6.7 have a recommendation for a power chip. I am looking primarily for fuel mileage. I have used Edge chips on both my previous trucks. The '03 made a huge difference in power and mileage. At 65 mph I could get 23.5 in my '03. The '06 was not quite as good. The power was not as noticable but the mileage avg was about 21 on the hwy. Just wondering if anyone is using Edge with good results like I have previously had or if there is a better product with this engine.

Smarty is going to have the same levels as the 5.9L.
For commuting I set my 99 RAM to 1/2 power. The fuel consumption is just unbeliveable. If I just go speed limit, I get 23 MPG!

I recommend you wait couple of more months till I test the Smarty on my 6.7L. I will let you know if it is as good as the ones for 5.9L.
I was told that it is going to be an outstanding package.

MRowsh, do you plan to cut all the DPF system loose when you get the new Smarty? That is my main interest so I can dual my truck out without all the BS that they have in there now and to hell with warranty. I talked to a dealer the other day and he said exactly what you did about the new version. If the hype is real, there should be no need for stacking either.

I got my truck back yesterday. They did the full cleanup process on the turbo, piping and actually completely changed the DPF. It was still laying on the ground in the shop when I got there. Also, the turbo tap didn't have to be done as my turbo already had the factory port on it. A new flash was also put in the computer to supposedly adjust regen time and temp of the EGT to prevent this from happening again. The day didn't stay all bright and cheery though. I live about 65 miles from my dealership. 15 miles down the road, I got engine light, 70%full. Within 2 sec, it said 80% full, and then immediately went to 100% full. I called the service guys and they said it may be trying to do another regen and to keep driving and let them know. The regen did start and it came back down to 70% full and then System OK appeared, although the check engine light didn't go off. I am thinking it is some sort of fluke that will clear up, but it just got worse. 25 miles later, the same process as above happened again, but this time it didn't try to regen, it just started de-rating power and the See Dealer, Filter is Full text came up. I also realized that in that 65 miles, I burned 1/4 tank of fuel. They sent a man to my town with a loaner truck and hauled mine back to the shop. They say they have never seen this happen after the clean-out. I am skeptical that there is some sort of computer malfunction either dumping way too much fuel to the filter for the regen or possible a bad sensor for the pressures they are measuring for differential pressure across the DPF making it think it is plugging up, then dumping fuel to regen and plugging up because of the rich burn. I don't know and at this point neither does the dealership. At least they are a good bunch of folks or I would be postal over this.

Has anyone seen, had or even heard of what is happening with my truck?

Thanks

Sounds like your engine isn't running right and is dumping lots of fuel/smoke into the DPF. They should drive it a few miles without the DPF and see how much the engine smokes on its own.

Shyjack; The Smarty suppose to take care of everything for us. There is no need to get ride of all the BS exhaust system. The trick is to run the engine hot enough to burn everything. So, we are not gong to have any problems with State's inspection of not having the DPF on the truck. It is clear that if we take all the BS off of the truck, it will not only run much better, but also the fuel consumption will be exertimly improved. But then depending on your State's regulations, you might run into problem. So, with Smarty the removal of all the crapy exhaust additions will not be needed!

The existing problem is that; in order for the existing system to clean itself and stays clean; we have to run it about 45 minutes with RPM above 2200. The temperature in DPF has to get as high as 1500 in order the NOx and DPF gets cleaned out. The first big cone shape after the turbo is the NOx cleaning system, and the second big one before the muffler is the DPF. With The Smarty doftware installed, number one, the EGR not going to get into the intake, and also the injector's timing will be adjusted accordingly in order to burn all the fuel, and keep temp up, but in the safe zone.

Ofcourse I have to see it myself in order to belive it! As of now, I am trying to run my RPM high enough in haighway driving (put the shifter to 5th gear at 75 MPH, with auto trany) so it stays clean for time being till I get my hands on Smarty.

One option is to hollow them out and slide a straight pipe inside them like a roll pin. You don't want to just hollow them out or they will become expansion chambers and it will be two steps forward and one step back.

If you have to pass the inspection in your State, that is not recommended. Because when they connect to the trucks ECM, they will see the code!

With the Smarty, you can return the ECM to the factory setting, go get inspection taking care of, then reprogram your ECM.

The other option is, to drop your entire exhaust and save it in your garage. Replace with high perfoormance exhaust system. When inspection time comes around, replace it with the factory and you are ready to pass the inspection.
After testing Smarty, if I see that there is a need; This is what I am going to do. Few hours of labor to replace it back and forth, but I think it is worth doing it.

If the Smarty turns off the regeneration and DPF checking functions, the ECM shouldn't be setting any codes with the filter disabled/removed. The only sign would be smoke out the exhaust.

Yes, it will turn those damn things off. BUT; For inspection due to the fact that they will connect their diagnostics computer to your ODB II socket and read the ECM, you have to reinstall the original ECM software. Therefore, there will be a CODE present and ready for inspector to read if you have bypassed the NOx and/or the DPF exhaust sections.

When you have the Smarty loaded, you will also have two codes present, which is part of the Smarty software. So, it does not matter what you do, there will be a code. But you will not be able to pass the inspection with the Smarty loaded into the ECM. And if your State does not require Diesel inspection, then you have nothing to worry about.

I live in Very Smalltown, Texas so I don't think the inspection will include them plugging in to the diagnostic port but I know some guys who do the inspections around here so I will ask them before I rip anything out. On my past 2 trucks, I have cut the catalyst out when I re-did my exhaust. This time, I think I will leave the catalyst no matter what I do, then a Cat Back type exhaust would allow me to remove the DPF and replace it with just a straight 4" pipe while saving the DPF and putting it back on if needed for inspection or warranty work. In any event the temperature sensor and the pressure sensors will have to be stored and protected while under the truck and not plugged in if the DPF is removed. I think the DPF itself has at least 2 sensor taps. This is a hell of a problem to have with a brand new vehicle.

SkyJack is right, ask around before you commit to one station for testing. The place I use charges $45- they get your registration information, put it on the dyno, floor it for a few seconds, park it outside, ask for their money and give you the papers. Yes, they run a slightly shady operation but I don't hesitate to bring my modified diesels to them first because they don't ask questions and they don't snoop around with mirrors. :w2:

It happened to me today
 

Today i spent the day waiting for the dodge dealership to change my DPF for the first time, on the way home 20 miles from the dealership, it started to chuck and pulse. I got home shut the truck off and went back out to try it again a few hours later. It was worse! No power, still pulsating. I use my truck hard, hauling cattle all over Southern Idaho. I never let it idle and push my truck as often as possible. The mileage was decent b4 all of the problems. Im looking for any information on alternative exaust systems, please! Im in a bit of a panic!:argh:

It is not your DPF, it is your NOx part of the exhaust system that is clugged. After the turbo, the first CONE shape is the NOx and then after that the other cone shape which is bigger than the first one is the DPF.

If I am not mistaken, you can handle a few tools. So, you should be able to do the follwoing.

What you need to do is, first disconnect the NOx. There are three bolts on each end. When you hammer the bolts out, watch out not messing the tips, otherwise the nuts will not go there.
Here is what I did; I welded few points on the end of a flat bolt that was about 10 inches long, placed the dots around these bolts after I took the nuts out and hit the end with a 3 pounder to drive the NOx bolts out. I did the point welding so the points do not allow the bolt to slip. I was alone doing this, so I had to use my transmission jack to hold the NOx in place. Then, vaccume the hell out of it with a shop vaccume from both ends. Put the vaccum nozell inside contacting the ceramic inside of it. After I vaccume the hell out of it, then I use my air hose with 175 PSI to blow through the fine holes in there. It is kind of a messy job if your shop vaccume does not have enough power. Blowing the soot out should get done outside your garage or the shop you are working from.
Then I placed the NOx back on and drove for 50 miles on highway, putting my auto bottom shifter on 5th geer and driving at 3000 RPM.

After that I zeroed my MPG indicator over head and went for a 35 mile on I-95. At 75 MPH I was getting 22 MPG. That means everything there was real clean and it was not doing any regen.

By mid October Smarty should come out. I recommend you do not do anything to your exhaust system till we get to test this 6.7L with Smarty installed.

Am I missing something on my pickup. or did the early 6.7's not show a percentage pulged on the over head deal ?..when mine messe's up it just shows the yellow engine lite under the speedo

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I hear people talk about it showing 70% or 80%.. on the (overhead Information deal) when the DPF is sooting up. My pickup dosen't show anything their. I just get the yellow engine light down by the speedo.. Is it because mine was an early model ? (6.7)Or am I just to stupid to find it it's done it enough time I'm pretty sure I would have seen it by now...Thanks

Yes, the newer trucks on over head shows the percentage. Also whe it is doing the regen, it will show Regen.
I have the older version like yours.

well i dont have any of that so thanks for the read though!!!!!!

I have noticed that if i ru my truck harded that the mpg increases. It all makes sense now.

the easiest way to clean the dpf is to do a DPF DELETE..... IMO:U::U::U:

The company I work for has an 07 3500 with the 6.7L and an 08 4500 with the 6.7L. We have had nothing but problems with both of these trucks. The 07 3500 has had the entire exhaust system replaced with 5" pipe from the turbo all the way to the back, eliminating the converter/DPF. We installed a Smarty program and the truck gained 5 mpg and more power. The 4500 has been to the dealership 7 times :madd: regarding the DPF issue and has had the cat converter replaced twice. The 4500 only has 37,000 miles on it. We are looking into the lemon law so we can get out of the lease on it. I feel for all of you and regard the DPF as a pile of crap that is costing Chrysler (and customers) more money than it is worth.

I've never had my truck in the first 10K say anything on the overhead about a regen, it's an 08 2500. I do about 30 miles one way on my way to work and back, average about 70 to 75 mph most of teh time unless traffic is bad. Only thing the truck has had done, to date is an oil change, and I'm about to do the 2nd.....

I don't know if I am just lucky, or if the thing's doing the regen and I don't know it, either way the only engine light I ever got was when I tried unplugging the EGR, which did absolutely nothing, so I just plugged it back in.

Average MPG on the overhead has been about 17.5, and I hand calc it out to about the same, again not the norm from what I understand usually the overhead is off by a mile, but mine seems about right.


Only time will tell what happens, but so far, no problems. Air filter is almost due to be changed, so I'll add an intake to it, and go from there I guess.

I bought the truck in jan of 09, not sure how to tell if it's an older truck or a newer one, any way to tell? Just wondering whether it's a newer one or older.

Also, when I bought the truck, one thing that was different about it from every other one I looked at, everything on the undercarriage, including the exhaust was painted black. Only thing that wasn't painted was the driveshafts... not sure if that means anything or not.