EGR Blocker Kit and LBZ MP
 

How hard is it to install an egr blocker kit and an LBZ mouthpiece? Any help would be appreciated.

The blocker plate itself is easy to put in. Wiring a fingerstick in is a bit harder. The LBZ MP is easy to install. Just a couple of clamps.
Do you have the parts already and want instructions or just a general idea of what you're getting into?

just a general idea of what im getting into really but either way im gonna order the parts

the blocker plate can actually be a but of a pain in the butt because of the lack of space to get wrenches on the bolts, and they are tight, really tight, and its better if you try to wrench them when the engine is a little warm, heat will help a little

you dont need a finger stick if you get a programmer that disables it.. and the mouthpiece isnt too bad to change

I would get the parts from Merchant Automotive :: Duramax and Allison Experts they sell both the blocker and LBZ mouthpiece

now will efi live clear that up? and another thing how do i do a pcv reroute?

Yes EFI Live will turn off the code completely. Keep in mind, if you buy EFI Live outright, it's not a canned tuner with preloaded calibrations. You'd have to buy tunes from a tuner or make your own.
There are couple ways to do the reroute, but they all accomplish the same thing. Pull the PCV hose off of your turbo MP and plug it (bar stool leg caps are cheap from the hardware store). The next part depends on if you want to keep the stock parts for warranty work. You can cut out the T in the middle of the line and splice in a hose barb T, then run the outlet down the side of the motor to vent to the ground. Or you could get replacement fittings for the valve covers online and run one hose off each side of the motor.

WELL here goes my 2 cents. EGR blocker and finger stick i dont know much about. I know that if you want an easyer time when in comes to MP's go with a Kodiak MP. IMO its worth the extra $2 it doesnt have the port for the resinator so the air flows more smoothly, and you dont have a massive hole to block, and the MP comes with a plug on the PCV port so all you would have to do is clamp it so it doesnt fall off. When it comes to your PCV re-route, like SGT said there are multiple ways to go about it. Me, i would hack both hoses down to about 2 to 3 inches, and then clamp in a 90 degree elbow on both sides , then run it down. It cleans up the top of your eng which helps alot IMO. you can run the hoses down the side of you eng and let them just hang (remember the PCV has the potentual to blow oil so it coudl coat the bottem of your truck in oil over time). Or you can run it down the side of the eng near the fire wall, secureing as you go so it doesnt move. Then you can either leave them separate, or throw a T fitting in there combining them back up and then running it to a catch can. I have the luxuary of working on aircrafts so i got a part from work that has a inlet and vent port to catch my excess oil.

im gonna have danville performance do my tuning and the pcv reroute doesnt sound to terribly bad how long do you think it will take? and thinks for everything youve told me so far.

I don't think anyone but danville could tell you how long it'll take.

the mp and the egr are awesome upgrades for performance and longevity , also do the pcv re-route im about to do that to mine also