3rd Gen Tech: Heater Grid delete
 

This is a supporting mod to installing an intake horn on your truck.
Ideally, this should be done at the same time as the intake horn.
Financial logistics had me installing this after the intake horn.

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First, you will want to disconnect the Negative leads of both batteries.


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Next, if you plan on removing the wiring from the solenoid (Good Idea) remove your torque tube to give you some wrench swinging room.


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Remove the lead off the positive terminal of the battery (Shown in pic with large “A” on it.) Then remove the wire from the solenoid.


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Next, remove the wire on the other large terminal of the solenoid. This wire goes around the front of the engine to the driver’s side, and to the Grid Heater.


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Cut zip tie, and using screwdriver pry remaining clips (3) open to release wire.

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Continued
 

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Next, loosen intake clamp from Intercooler, remove bolt for Oil dipstick, remove wiring bolt from back of intake, then remove bolts holding intake.

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Remove intake from Engine carefully. Remove upper gasket carefully, and keep it oriented as to how it goes on. I laid it on the valve cover, so I could put it back like it came off. Remove Grid Heater (You may be able to preserve the gaskets).

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In a side-by-side comparison, you can see the gains in flow; take special note the gains extend past just removing the grid from a stock piece. This was a well thought out piece. Take note of inside corners protruding into the path of airflow, and bolts on the grounded side.

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Install the Heater Grid Delete to the engine. Here you will also notice that the piece matches the gasket and manifold flange well.

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Continued
 

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Begin re-installation of manifold. Place horn inside of Intercooler hose first. To avoid possible damage to gasket, I recommend partially tightening the intake to the manifold before tightening or re-installing anything else.

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Next tighten intercooler hose, re-install wiring to back of manifold, and re-install Dip Stick tube. Go back and final snug the manifold bolts, reconnect the battery negatives, and you are done!


NOTE: It has come to my attention that some models (Like the 2003) may have more than one solenoid, or not be similar to what is explained and shown here. If this is the case, trace the wiring back starting from the Grid heater, and just remove the wire(s) from the Grid heater to the Solenoid(s).

What exactly does this do?

less air restriction, even though i dont think its really that big of an improvement, and also unless you live somewhere it stays warm i wouldnt do this because this is what helps your cold weather starting:c:

Ok thanks I am relatively new diesels so i'm tryin to expand my knowledge.

yeah I'd keep your grid heater in place if you live like in montana like me because it's -16F here today and i wouldn't want to try starting it with out it

I wouldn't think many people should do this mod. Grid heaters work wonders and without them you are going get into trouble since the Cummins has no glow plugs...:humm:

Person can remove it during the summer and part of the fall months. But your under the hood messing with it twice a year.


BTW, #1 injector line does rub the block, even if you try and move the line around. Just isn't enough room. Also, don't remove the smaller wire from the relay, end up setting a voltage drop not seen at air heater relay, or something like that.

If anyone in Canada does it, it's probably just for the warmer seasons...

I have absolutely no problem with this mod year round in the Desert Southwest. :U:

It can snow in the desert though!

Yes it does.
I do use the block heater here in Phoenix when it's cold and I know I'm going to be driving the truck.

what did that one run you?

why would you yank the grid heater it dont give you that much more power does it?

rdnckhaus, sent you a PM.

94cummins12v,
ON A STOCK TRUCK, The Grid Delete delivered 15-18 lb/ft and about 6HP from 1900-2000rpm, and from 2100-2200 it made 20-25 lb/ft and around 10HP. Power then is about the same as stock through 2500 with another increase around 2650rpm of 9 lb/ft and 5HP over the stock heater grid.

On a heavily modified truck, gains in the 17 HP range have been recorded.

Here's a link to the shop that did the dyno runs if you are interested in reading a little more about it.

leftcoastdiesel.com - WINspeed Heater Grid Delete Test

One thing I failed to mention in the article, is when starting a vehicle with the HGD in place, do not wait for the pigtail, or "wait to start" light to go out before starting your vehicle. Doing so will throw a code. Just ignore it and crank it up right after putting the key in.

Also, this may be a way of confirming you live in a warm enough climate to keep the HGD on year round. Our winter lows here in Phoenix are usually mid 40's, with a few days of exception, if that helps.

yea i don think ill be doing this,Southern IL gets a little too cold... it was about 6 degrees the other day

As stated before, it may not be the mod for the colder climates...

Grid Heater Delete
 

Can anyone tell me about the #1 injector line rubbing on a grid heater delete block? I've got one on order and am concerned that this will damage the injector line.
Thanks in advance.

Pretty simple story.

First, some manufacturers mill a clearance area out for this.

Install your HGD... DON'T panic!! lol !
If it is touching, or rubbing, carefully pry it away from the HGD block. You only need it NOT to touch! So, don't get carried away...

I used a screwdriver for this.. Primitive, I know, but sometimes, the simple solutions work the best.

Over thinking some stuff serve NO purpose but to tie you up in the Minutia.

Thanks Wildcat. That's me always over thinkings - trying to figure everything out before I start. How about getting codes due to the disconnected relay wires? Did you experience any?
Great write up on your install BTW.
Thanks,
John

My 1st Gen starts easily and reliably down into the teens with no grid heater. It takes more cranking the colder it gets, but will start reliably into the negative numbers with a shot of ether. Did it a couple times so far this winter around zero one day and -18 the other. No grids, just a shot of ether to reduce cranking time.

Hey John,

No codes.

You don't disconnect the solenoid coil wires, only the higher power contact wires.

After that, the only trick to "Code Free" starting is turning the key on, and immediately cranking the motor. This will prevent the computer from seeing the draw the Grid heater would normally cause.

I believe all this was in the previous thread, (Post #16 ) but here it is again for re-iteration...

Did your rig not have a ground wire connected to the heater block and intake manifold?

nope. no ground wire there.

K thanks.Thinkin grounding through the bolts or gaskets is'nt too good for as many amps the heater pulls.Have you ever heard of an explanation for why they did away with the ground wire?