3rd Gen Tech: CFM Install
 

With all the talk lately on the boards about intakes, I decided to upgrade my stock intake.

I decided on the CFM+ Carbon Fiber look alike with the three ports tapped in the back.

http://i25.tinypic.com/9td6wo.jpg

Due to my work, and personal life, I was a little slow in getting it installed.
I had some time today, so I decided to tackle the project.

The kit from CFM+ was VERY complete.
It comes with everything needed to do the install and Hand tool requirements are minimum.

http://i29.tinypic.com/wmb7vb.jpg

There are 3 plugged pre-tapped ports on the back available for use.

http://i26.tinypic.com/ieouwz.jpg

After a quick inventory, and reading the installation instructions, it was time to get busy.
This installation was done on a 2007 5.9L. Here’s a before picture.

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First step is to remove the negative leads on both batteries. 10mm
Then remove the dipstick bolt, and rotate it out of the way. 10mm.
Remove the nut and washer that holds the wiring harnesses on the back of the stock intake, and remove the harnesses from the stock intake. A screwdriver may help.

http://i27.tinypic.com/2z8rldz.jpg

Loosen the boost hose clamp. 11mm

http://i29.tinypic.com/11avd61.jpg

Remove the 4 bolts holding the stock intake in place. 10mm

http://i30.tinypic.com/5cxg5t.jpg

Remove the stock intake from the truck. The wiring harness stud will be used in the new CFM+ intake, now is a good time to swap it over.

http://i30.tinypic.com/ej6ki.jpg
http://i27.tinypic.com/2vb5yf4.jpg

I was able to leave the wiring to the heater block intact, and swing it out of the way.
Remove the Graphite gasket, and scrape any remaining gasket material from the mating surface.

http://i31.tinypic.com/2d8nayw.jpg

Continued
 

Loosening the bolts closest to the block caused some rust and debris to fall into the intake, plus a little gasket material invariably finds it’s way in there, so I used a Shop Vac to clean up the intake before proceeding.

http://i30.tinypic.com/23kdtth.jpg

Place the new Factory Graphite gasket on the manifold, then the heater block, and to save trouble fitting it on later, (Clearance to the valve cover is tight.) the Aluminum reinforced gasket on top of the heater block. Install the studs by hand at first to get the threads started. Then use the 2 13mm nuts tightened against each other to tighten each stud into the manifold.

http://i29.tinypic.com/30b1sua.jpg

Before installing the CFM+ check the tightness of the 3 port plugs (3/16 allen wrench) or install fittings to the ports you wish to use. Your wiring harness stud should also be installed before this step.

Install the CFM+ on the studs, and start the end into the boost hose

http://i27.tinypic.com/34opp95.jpg

Using the provided Flat washers and self locking nuts (13mm) snug the CFM+ down, then torque evenly to 140 in. lbs.

http://i26.tinypic.com/25so0g1.jpg

Place the wiring harnesses and washer on the wiring harness stud, and tighten nut.

http://i25.tinypic.com/15eteok.jpg


Rotate the dipstick tube to its new mounting point. Start the dipstick-mounting bolt by hand to keep from cross threading, and then tighten with wrench.

http://i27.tinypic.com/2ryon7p.jpg

Tighten boost hose clamp to 100 in. lbs.

http://i28.tinypic.com/ea33hh.jpg

Reconnect negative battery leads.

http://i28.tinypic.com/2llekad.jpg

Finished install

http://i25.tinypic.com/n624i0.jpg

Note: dom42 pointed out to me that the wiring harness rubs on the dipstick in it's relocated position. He stated after about 50K miles, vibrations from the motor will cause the dipstick to wear through the wiring, and cause the wiring to short to ground through the dipstick. You can see the problem area in the pic right above this text. I've since gone back and insulated the wiring to prevent the dipstick from rubbing through the insulation

Any questions or comments are welcome!

:pca1:

Looks Great!!!!!!!!


Luke :U:

Looks great. I will have one some day.

great job bill nice write up!!

ANother good write up!:U:

It's been 1.5 years since I put this on my truck. It's still holding up fine, and I'm considering putting the 3 ports in the back of the CFM+ to use with a Labonte Motorsports Water Meth kit... If I end up doing it, I'll be sure to write it up.

Happy Wrenching! :c:

what did you notice with the cfm compared to the stock intake? thinking about getting one. pretty spendy iterm!!!! not sure if it is a good bang for the buck. any info would be helpful!!!!!

To answer your question directly, not a real noticable difference on just the CFM+.

It is my opinion modifications to the intakes of our trucks are a sum of the parts thing. To completely take advantage and actually notice the effects of improved airflow, you would have to upgrade everything in the intake path... CAI with bigger filter, replace the stock air tube between the Filter and Turbo, replace the stock piece from the output side of the intercooler to the air horn, replace the air horn, remove the heater grid. (This is what I have done to my truck)

You might notice a little lower boost pressure due to less resistance to flow, which might also net you faster spool up, but don't be fooled by the lower boost, you are moving the same amount of air, just at lower pressure. Your power level should increase