Factory Service Manual? 2005
 

Does anyone have a PDF of the factory service manual? 2005?

I am fairly certain it is an 05. I will find out for sure in the next day or two. I am supposed to go work on it for a relative, so I would like it for all the torque specs and the procedure/specs for running the overhead.

If not I will check the library to see if they have a Chilton or Haynes. But coming from a shop, I am guess I am spoiled.

What exactly are you doing to the truck?

Let me know and I can see what i can help you with.

Putting in new injectors. I come from working on Cummins. I haven't touched a powerstroke before. Wasn't sure what needs to be done to remove the injectors and how to set the overhead. Most of my work as been on ISX/N14 and ISM/M11.

But, he says it is smoking unless he lets it warm up for 20 minutes. So I figure there is a chance I might be doing more.

Injectors on a 6.0 aren't much fun.

Order stand pipes (the tube between the high pressure oil rail and the branch tube), because the O-rings will likely need to be changed because it'll haul the stand pipe out when you try and remove it. The stand pipe goes in the back, the rearmost plug in the top of the oil rail. You might want to re-seal the 'dummy plugs' in the front of the rail, as they are prone to leakage. The torque spec for the dummy plug and the stand pipe 'upper fitting' is 60-FTLBS.

Injector torque is CRITICAL on these things.

Use a 3/4" chrome deep socket to help release the injector clips from the rocker box.

To make life easier on yourself, you might want to remove the evaporator case/blower motor from the truck - it's only 5 or 6 bolts, and reclaiming the AC, and it gives you LOADS of space to work.

Buy a T40 LONG torx socket, and be prepared to drive the bit out of the holder and shorten it up to remove the injector hold down bolts. Otherwise use a tool like Snap-On® SDMT440 torx to avoid damaging the fuel injector plastic and to avoid interference with the evaporator case

If you don't want to remove the evaporator case: Use a tool like the KD Tool #58965 or Lisle T30 to avoid interference with the evaporator case

Injector torque spec is 24 FT-LBS.

Oil rail torque is 10-FT LBS, in the sequence below.

There's a couple other pics to illustrate where all the bolts and crap are.

Install these three bolts first during reassembly:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...firstthree.gif

here's the location of all the bolts:
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...lrailbolts.gif

Here's the torque sequence for the HP oil rail.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...railtorque.gif

Thanks. How much 134 does the system hold? 2lbs?

That T30 you linked to is 1/4" drive....I have a snap on 3/8. That gonna be too bulky?

depending on which side your working on your 3/8 drive will be fine for the drivers side but the bottom two under the evaporator box on the passenger will not fit. so if this is the case then heater box removal will be required

as for your refrigerant the r-134a required to properly fill your A/C system is 2 lbs 10 oz

You can use a 1/4 drive T-30 screwdriver bit and a 1/4 drive battery wrench type ratcheting wrench to get the lower bolts. Don't drop the bit though.

I talked to him. Says he just hit 200k. I guess he has a lot of blue smoke, and I think he said it runs rough, unless he lets it warm up for 20 minutes...then its fine. He is set on it being an o-ring on an injector because because he said it is exactly what happened to his last powerstroke (late 90's 7.3).

Injectors are probly all varnished up from lack of maintenance. Try running diesel compliant 10w30 in it and see if it helps any. Don't tow with the 10w30 though.

The 6.0 injector has a service interval that rivals a friggin copper spark plug.