Just found a goose plate at the junkyard in a rolled 99 2500 gasser. I know, I really wasnt expecting to see it there either being a gas truck and all...(but it came out really easy when the sawzall went after the bed)
But anyway, its the solid plate with angle brackets for the frame, plenty for what I will be towing. Was wondering what grade hardware to bolt it with. Conventional wisdom would say grade 8, but knowledge tells me that grade 8 gets brittle when used with reciever hitches. So whats yalls take? Cant tell by the old bolts, they dont have any markings in the heads.

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02.5 2500 4X4 reg cab white HO 6spd. Edge comp, TST comp, and Bosch RV 275 sticks. Stacks by me to roll the coal. Walbro lift pump/filter big line setup, Multi function shifter stick, Solenoid High Idle. LED's All over it
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stkdram55's Sig:

Just an Inline 6 Cylinder

Only 2 defining forces have ever offered to die for you.....Jesus Christ and the American Soldier..
One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.

Always grade 5's in all hitches this way they flex with the movement and don't break or come lose on ya.

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374.2/846.7 at 30psi

Uncle bubba.... I know this is a touchy subject but my train of thinking is that a grade 5 will streach and break before a grade 8 will start to move. I know over on pirate4x4 we have gotten into MANY heated debates over which grade for what... seems like everyone is spit down the middle.

I'm not a engin-nerd by along shot buts what your thoughts on that theory?

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If you look at every hitch on the market they all come from the factory with grade 5 hardware, all the way from the cheapest to the most expensive. I figure after all the money brands like B&W, Rigid and Putnam put into research they're must be a reason.

I don't pretend to have any scientific knowledge of this stuff myself, but I was always told that Stainless or grade 8 and harder are only for use in static applications that need to be held tight. For anything with movement or vibration it was grade 5.

Just think back to the stories about the oak and willow trees. Oak trees are completely rigid and so oak boards are incredibly strong and long lasting. But in high winds the oak will snap and fall down while in the same winds the willow trees just keep bouncing back.

Now to go one step further, I've had customer bring me trucks with hitches hangin because of grade 8 failures. The bolts don't shear off like you would expect, they actually snap off an break, shatter like a tall glass. You have a top and bottom of the bolt but the broken section is jagged and broken.

hhhmmmm

grade 5 all the way.

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Grade 5 plated.

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1999 Dodge DRW EXcab, 4X4, S&B Intake (thanks Holland Court Diesel), Dual exhaust, , Adrenaline w/Pulse AirDog 100. BD valve body, TCI TC, Isspro new Dodge white gauges. DDII's, SP Diesel Trans controller .
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Welded!!!!!!!!

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I've welded all of mine, all home made. I haven't had one come loose yet and I gross up to 34,000 sometimes.

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I don't really think it matters,Grade five is cheaper,so that's what I would use.

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is it a bolt in plate?? if its not then why not weld to the frame?? but if you do end up boltin it in i agree with uncle bubba grade 5 is prolly what i'd go with

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Just Cause it Smokes, Dont Mean it's Broke !!
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Grade 8 is stronger for clamping ability and has less side load strength. A hitch has a lot of side loading going on with the mounting bolts. Grade 5 all the way for this application.

94Matt's Sig:

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The Fodge, a 1993 Ford 4x4 reg cab, 03 Cummins common rail, with southbend FE and NV4500

Bunch of gassers

grade 12 aircraft grade bolts for me custom mounts 3/4 bolts 1/2 heavy plate

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