I took my truck for state inspection yesterday and all 4 ball joints are bad. (which i kinda figured ) Anybody have any advice or tips for replaceing them on an 01 Ram 2500 4x4? -

dieseldocter16's Sig:

2001 Dodge Ram 2500 SPORT CTD, leveled, Bilstein 5100's, Recon smoked clearance lights and Line of Fire (thanks 07redsled), SBS diesel 5" T-pipe w/ 5" stacks, pintle hook, Grand General train horn

good stuff in here dude

Help, Ball Joints... -

Whit's Sig:

* 01 Cummins/Dodge/HO/6 speed*275 injectors*PDR 35 turbo w/14cm housing & high pressure boots*HTT 3 piece ported exhaust manifold*Progaurd 7 with prefilter*Edge Comp*Fass II*Southbend con OFE*Jacobs brake*5"Stacks Big ens*E/F shift knob w/2low & brake switch*10 Gages*KW Ram air System cab controlled*Rickson 19.5x265's*True speed calibrator*Rancho 9000's*DT track bar*DSS steering stabilizer*KW Side impact rails*KW Traction Bars*Toolbox/fueltank 60 gal Combo*Mag High Tech Diff Cover*Ranchand bumpers*Grover air horns*Rear Wheel Cylinder Upgrade DYNO 375 Horse 941 Torque

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hey im going to replace my ball joints on my 1997 f250 7.3 powerstroke whas your steering wheel loose? where youre front tires spread apart? because mine is just asking -

TexasDiesels's Sig:

1997 F250 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel
4 in Turbo Back Exhaust
Sprayed Bedliner
Suncoast Transmission
Cold air intake

The steering is loose. When they had the truck on the lift and pryed up on the tire you could see the upper and lower joints moving. -

WOW.....thats bad

I just checked mine here a few months ago....................019 drivers side and .021 passenger ....................! have 150k on the truck -

im mad me and my dad and uncle were changing the ball joins on my truck and they didnt fit !!

i need a ride for school tomorrow -

That sucks. I'm still shopin around for joints. The damn local automotive wants $500.00 for 4 Moog's, oil seals, dust shields, and u-joints for the axle shafts. -

you don't want to cheap out on a ball joint,

short history on my truck

stock balljoints lasted to 120K and you could wobble them all around in the cup, they almost came loose, replaced them with TRW (Advance Auto brand) got alignment done, 3 months later doing brakes and find the balljoints are wobbly and clunking all around, remove them get them warrantied out, 3 months later i am chasing a clunk in the front end, replace all control arm bushings, sway bar end links, shocks, find balljoints again bad, take them back and get refund, go and spend almost 3X as much on Moogs, replace them, all is good for a year go to lower the truck and the lower ball joints are bad, take them back and get them replaced..... the Dodge front end geometry is wacked out IMHO and the balljoints suffer because of this, this was on a 1996 2wd IFS 1ton. -

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That sucks my uncles is charging us 200$ for installing them. -

My advice is don't use cheap ball-joints unless you want some extra practice replacing them. Almost every dodge I've done has been rusted together and takes twice as long to keep from destroying the hubs(snapon makes a special tool to help with this). Good luck and use alot of anti-sieze on any metal 2 metal surfaces when you put it back together. -

Same thing happened on my 04 350 6.0 at 36225 miles 3 of 4 gone and ford said not under warrenty. so I got mad at american car companys and got a tundra biggest mistake ever. Lets just say they put the TOY in toyota. -