2002 2500 needs new vp, I think this is a job I can tackle myself. Just a few questions, first is the vp mechanically timed to the engine (like the p-pump) or is it all computer controlled? Second do I need some sort of special puller for the pump gear; if so does someone have a pert number and picture of it? Thanks again guys

Well as some of you know I FINALLY bought a P-Pump 95 to play with But she was def. a work truck which doenst scare me. Slowly but surely this truck will get restored and turned into a part time puller and street toy. I'll be taking pictures throughout the process for my own record and so you can guys see what Im up to and maybe help some others or get some input. Well heres what I have so far... Enjoy, there will be many more to come.

The lil gem that Ive been searching for...With the NV4500 as well

Fits right in

Southern born and raised helped the truck being 99% rust free, another plus

Passenger lip was scabby, drivers was way better...



Only rot on the truck

Prepaired for the patch

There's a 6 position in-line connector located just behind the dashboard to the right side of your steering column. It carries the wires for cruise control, horn, and the key-in-ignition dinger. You can either clip the black/pink wire coming out of that connector, or for a reversible mod, pull the terminal keeper out of the face of the connector, and unlatch the terminal connected to the black/pink wire. Pull that terminal out of the connector and tape it out of the way so it doesn't ground.

To help in ID'ing the connector here's the wire colors.
Connector 219
Pin 1 - lt blue/black - Cruise control Switch return
Pin 2 - dark blue - Horn
Pin 3 - Lt blue/red - Instrument Panel lamps feed
Pin 4 - Dk green/orange or grey/red or maybe empty
Pin 5 - Black - Ground
Pin 6 - black/pink - Key Warning Switch

As eazy as that , ditch the bottle and extend the hose to along the frame rail

Thanks to MIGHTY DIESEL I made my Diesel MIGHTIER!

For Only $130 I once again feel safe running WOT!

Check the head bolts out here

and for the photos... Took 96 Photos Total I went threw and skipped some as i went so here they are


starting to take valve cover off


taking valve cover off


valve cover removed


removing rockers


rockers removed


rockers off on table


Head bolts on table


head bolt washers and valve cover bolts


installing first bolt


all rockers removed 1 bolt installed

Presto !

So, after searching for several hours, on here and on google, and finding nothing, I decided I'd make sure I took pictures and do a quick write up on puling and installing an input shaft. I'd been told by pretty much everyone I talked to that it was really easy, but since I'm not a tranny guy, it kinda made me nervous. First of all, I want to say, yes, it was really easy. There are a few things to remember when pulling it out and reinstalling, but for the most part I think it took me about 15 minutes, and that's because I was taking pictures.

(Note, I don't know all the technical names for all the components, so bear with me!)

So, step one.

Remove the 4 1/2 in bolts holding the input shaft cover on.


Then remove the cover. I used a small flathead screwdriver and a hammer to carefully break the seal, tapping lightly and then prying it away from the front of the transmission.


When you take off the cover, take note of the little round divot in the top of the cover, and in the top of the hole on the tranny. Make sure that when reinstalling either the stock cover or the new one, that these holes match up. I haven't received my new input shaft yet, but I plan on running a small bead of silicone around the outside edge of the input shaft cover to help seal it.



Gently grab the input shaft itself, and carefully pull it out. you may need to wiggle it a little bit, but don't over do it. It should pull out fairly easily.


If you look in the center of the input shaft, you'll notice a bearing inside. Make sure this comes out with the input shaft, and doesn't drop down in the tranny...if it does, you'll have to fish it out. Or, it may just sit on the mainshaft inside the tranny. Either way, make sure you have this out.


This is what it looks like outside of the input shaft


If you look inside the tranny, there's a disc that sit's somewhat loose, with the input shaft removed. I don't know what exactly it is, but I would recommend not moving it around too much....I'm not sure how stable everything behind it is.


When you're reinstalling the input shaft, take note of the splines on the back of the input shaft. These splines will line up on the inside of that disc that I was talking about. Here's two pics, one of the splines on the input shaft, and one on the disc itself.



I know a lot of people probably already know how to do this, but seeing as how this was the first time for me, I was pretty nervous about pulling it out. I know there have been other people that asked the same question, and everyone pretty much got the same answer....take the bolts off, and pull it out. While it was that easy, it would have been nice to have a few pics to go with it, just to prove that there wasn't anything major to worry about. Hope this helps!

It appears as tho real diesel has closed there doors , we went in to the web archive and rescued these informative photos of the internals of the VP44 Injection pump , thanks to Real Diesel for there work, efforts and support in the Diesel Community


here is a clear view of whats inside the vp44 fuel pump

cant do the red and yellow it looked bad , did make it red

NV4500: General Information:

In 1992 Dodge and General Motors trucks started appearing in showrooms with one of the most versatile transmissions ever to be offered in a production truck: the New Venture Gear 4500. General Motors applications include it as an option in 3/4 and 1-ton full size trucks. Dodge standard duty units come in trucks with the 5.2 and 5.9 liter engine, while Dodge HD versions are used with Cummins diesels and V10’s.
This transmission is a fully synchronized (except reverse on GM models) five-speed gearbox with all of the strength and low-gear benefits (and then some) of the older granny four-speeds, with a 27-percent overdrive. The cast iron case is combined with massive gear sets in an almost compact 200lb package. This unit shifts with a smooth, short action and very distinct shift gates. We consider it the premium manual trans swap for 4x4 vehicles.
Gear Ratios:

Current production Dodge NV4500 and GM NV4500 share the same gear ratios. Early GM units (93-94) were built with a lower first gear ratio of 6.34 to 1.0. These low-geared GM boxes have since been discontinued and are generally much more difficult to obtain. We are able to provide new and remanufactured NV4500s with these early gearsets.

Beginning in 95’, all GM units were built with the same gear ratios as the Dodge unit.
GM 93-9495/up GM; 93/up DodgeFirst Gear6.345.61Second Gear3.443.04Third Gear1.711.67Fourth Gear1.001.00Fifth Gear0.730.73Reverse6.345.61

Specifications

Dry weight:195 lbs.Oil capacity:1 gallonRated GVW:14,500 lbs.Case material:cast ironSynchronizers:Carbon fiber compositeMain/Counter shaft bearings:Timken tapered roller

Dimensions
NV4500GM (6.34)GM (5.61)DodgeDodge HDMain case12.375"12.375"12.375"12.375"4WD Adapter Housing8.1258.1256.256.252WD Tailhousing6" Tailhousing6" Tailhousing13" Tailhousing13" TailhousingYokeFixed YokeFixed Yoke30 spl Slip yoke31 spl Slip yokeInput shaft stickout6.6256.6257.6257.625Input shaft spline1.125" 10spl1.125" 10spl1.125" 10spl1.250" 10splPilot Dia.590".590".750".750"


Bearing Retainer specification
BellhousingT/O bearingIndex Dia.Snout Dia.GM NV4500 1993-955.125"1.373"GM NV4500 1996 and up5.60"none: Int Slave CylDodge NV4500 Standard Duty5.60"1.43"Dodge NV4500 Heavy Duty5.60"1.75Bellhousing Bolt Pattern:

• GM 1993-1995 10.078 across the top, 10.394 across the bottom, 4.685 vertically
• GM 1996 + up 10.078 across the top, 9.738 across the bottom, 6.043 vertically
• Dodge (All) 10.078 across the top, 9.738 across the bottom, 6.043 vertically

Shifter Stub Specification



The NV4500 shifter will have a short stub sticking up from the top cover, There are 3 different methods by which a shifter extension handle attaches:

• Dodge NV4500 1993-1999 A short, square stub sticks up
• Dodge NV4500 1999-up Threaded stub, 14mm x 1.5 pitch threads
• GM NV4500 (All) Threaded stub, 12mm x 2.0 pitch threads

Lubrication:
You MUST use the correct synthetic lubricant. The GM part no. for the correct oil is 12346190 (quart). The Dodge part number for the same oil is 4874459 Use of ANY other oil in the NV4500 will lead to failure and also voids any chance of a warranty claim.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Don't mind the wavy numbers in the index it was being a bitch

(Please note, I did not mention any steps for painting. I did not have to paint my panels, I got lucky and paint matched paint codes for my parts. Paint code is in your glovebox tag)

I went around and swapped my head lights from the 03-05 style to the 06 up recently. It really wasnt too hard and can be done in your driveway/garage, etc with basic hand tools. One tool most people dont have is an antenna wrench



You will need 06 up head lights and fenders as well as a front bumper. If you get your head lights from a wrecker, ask for the 3 headlight pigtals for each light. Otherwise you will have to find some somewhere. I had an ARB winch bumper already, and picked up my headlights and fenders off KIJIJI for $500 with the pigtails.

Start by opening you hood, disconnecting you batteries.



Next you will have to remove any accessories you have on your fenders, extra antennas/fender flares/mud flaps/etc





Test fitting flare and checking color match



Next, remove your headlight, 2 10mm bolts on the inside by the grill, and one under the headlight at the bottem of the fender. The headlight will still be held in with one last mount which can be popped out by prying with slight pressure. There are 2 plugs on the back of the headlight to be unplugged from the bulbs




Next is the fender to be removed, on the passenger side, you have to remove the antenna and mast which is were the fancy wrench comes in handy.

The fender is held in place by 10mm bolts, and the cowl vent pannel has to be removed to get the 2 hidden ones. There is also the 10mm bolts across the top of the fender, 2 below where the headlight sat, one at the bottem rocker behind the tire, and another which you need to get the inner fender off to access it about where the factory molding points to. Carefully remove the fender now. Truck should now look like this:



Its time to do the wiring, you have 2 factory plugs on your truck, and 3 for the new lights, what do you do now? If you notice, the factoy lights and your new pigtails have the same color code. Just snip them and splice them back together. For the second park light/signal light pigtail, it is the same as the original signal light wiring and you just spice it into that plug

Notice the white wire with yellow tracer, this is the signal light wiring for the left side





Be sure to leave a few inches of wiring to on the second signal light pigtail to allow it to reach the bulb, here is my finished harness




Now your ready for reassembly. On the passenger side, there is a black plastic air deflector which needs to be removed to fit the new lights. Also remember to reinstall the antenna and mast. Fender goes on first, same way it came off, followed by the headlight. Leave everything loose to allow body gaps be adjusted and lined up.



Once everything is lined up and straight, then proceed to tighten everything up. Reinstall any accessories you had.



The driver and passenger side are fairly similar to do other than the mentioned air deflector and antenna on the passenger side. With this completed, you will not have the signal light "wink" the new trucks have, when signaling, the head light turns off. That is part of the programming for the body control module.

It took me about 2 hours to complete this, with air tools. When finished remember to realign your headlights.

Enjoy your new looking truck!

Requirements-

One 200v-1A Diode

Common Sense.

If you would like to have your DRLs to stay on with your low beams and fog lamps, than this is for you!

First, take out your highlight relay and DRL relay. Look for the 87 pin on each relay. Take your 200v-1A diode and take the anode side and stick the end into the 87 pin hole where the Headlight Relay was. Then take the cathode end and stick it into the DRL relay 87 pin hole. Make sure that the diode is not touching any other metals or fuses. Take the relays and place them back in, might need to push a little harder because of the diode. And TA-DA!

The EASY way!

For many years I have been a big fan of connectors like these "piggy backs"


Really simple if you have a spare port on your fuse block. What if you don't have a spare, or if you need more than what the fuse block can supply. Well people, I have found just what a person needs!!




This can be used ANYWHERE! It simply plugs into your fuse block at any location. With reference to the pictures above, the red fuse is for the circuit you tapped into. The blue fuse is for the pigtail and whatever you are powering. Best part of all of this, I only paid $6 for the ATM (Mini) version. The ATC (Auto) style is a little steeper, coming in at $15.

Hunting for power, or splicing into wires is a thing of the past! Here it is in a 2001 Dodge RAM, cab fuse block;


They are called Tapa-Circuit's. I bought mine at a local electronics shop, Ko-Hen. This is a link to WirthCo's site, the manufactures.
Tapa-Circuit® - Wirthco Engineering, Inc.

Hey All,

I had thought there was something a little off with my boost here lately. I searched all over different forums and found alot of answers and pictures of these homemade boost leak testers. To be honest, I just did not have the time to drive around and peice one of these together. So I ordered one from a place called turboboostleaktesters.com. It cost like 36 dollars for the tester and shipping was like an additional 10 bones.

Here I have it hooked up. I had the choice of either an air hose fitting or a tire valve stem. I just choose the tire valve stem for my preference.


And with just 5 psi and some soapy water found a leak.


Was able to get the leak fixed and check the entire system. Really if a person does not have the time or limited on stores that may carry the stuff needed local, this is a good option. I wish I would have found this a couple years back. Just thought I would share it with you.

oudive