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Gentlemen, Last fall I traded my stock bumper to a fella for his Ranchand style bumper. The problem is the previous owner had a little mishap with it. He ran into something pretty substantial to bend the 1/2" plate mounts, the uprights and the crossbar. ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER
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#1
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Gentlemen,
Last fall I traded my stock bumper to a fella for his Ranchand style bumper. The problem is the previous owner had a little mishap with it. He ran into something pretty substantial to bend the 1/2" plate mounts, the uprights and the crossbar. It needs new mounting plates for sure. I know some of you guys are welders/fabricators - so, how fixable is this? I dont weld but didnt think its looked too bad. Was I wrong? I would like it to look somewhere close to new. Any advice would be appreciated. Heres the pics of the damage: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I would also like to fix the dents on the upright sections - I assume that will mean some cutting and adding new flatbar. - Last edited by Dr. Evil; 07-12-2008 at 10:15 PM.. |
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#2
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Evil,
I'm no welder either but based on my knowledge of steel, if you heat that up with a torch you should not have any problem bending that back in place. Of course the alternate there is to cut it off with a recip saw and place a new tube inside and weld that in place. - |
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#5
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Ya, a torch and prybar, or a porta power wedge will bend that right back out. If you get the porta power wedge it will probably bend back out without the heat just won't be as clean. The mounting plates are easy to fabricate, jut cut the old ones off and weld new ones on.
Heres the porta power I'm talkin about. Lot a rental places around here rent these by the day. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...3133_200333133 I couldn't really see the dents you mention in the flat bar fronts. If it was me I would just attache some rubber strips to th front bars. This would hide the dents and give you a padded pushing surface. I keep meaning to do this on mine, just never get around to it. It's just 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch thick rubber matting that they use on trailer floors. - Last edited by Uncle Bubba; 07-12-2008 at 10:34 PM.. |
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#6
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I was planning on coating it with Line-x but want to get it as straight as possible. If I cant get it straight, I may just scrap the thing. -
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#7
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It's far from scrap. Just put the porta power with the bar attachment in between the uprights to spread them back out straight as you can and this will help pull the bar back out. Once they are straight then just put the wedge in between the big bar and the small bent one and push it back out straight the rest of the way. -
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#8
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If you are going to put new flat bar over your 1/2" plates, I say cut out your bent bottom pipe, cut off your flat bar on the uprights, heat and beat the bottom portion of the 1/2" plate until it is straight(or close to it, no one is going to see its off an 1/8" when you put that 1" or 1 1/4" flat bar over top anyway). Thats just my opinion, if you dont have access to a port-a-power to try first like Bubba suggested, even then, if it was my truck I would replace probably replace the bent/broken pieces with new material.
Whatever way you do it, it NOT scrap, and if you think it is, I know a guy that will take it off your hands - |
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#9
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cheap man's fix,
git a tow strap or 2, hook it to the bumper in the middle of the bent section of the tube, hook to big tree with a massive root system, take and slowly pull tension on the bar, if an automatic truck get up on the converter a lil, it's best to have a lookout person to watch while you do this to make sure it doesn't come out too far, also while tension is being pulled on it tap, with a hammer, around the bend in the bar and up support things. this will relax the metal and help it retain the position it is being pulled into. hope this helps - |
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#11
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#12
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LOL -
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#13
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Whitmore, hows youre welding skills? -
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#14
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I would totally replace the lower pipe that is bent, looks like to me yer main beams there are bent too, I would cut out the lower pipe and try to straighten up the main beams there and then weld in a new pipe, 2" 80 schd I would go...........then take it in for the line-x job and bolt er back up
Doc I will fix it for ya for free but ya gotta get it down here dude what say you? - |
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#15
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The uprights are pretty straight above the 4" main pipe but below they arent. I will need a couple of 1/2" brackets with a 90 in them.
Were probably heading down south next week. - |