Puttin Up Pole Barn.

I-6DZL · #1 02-29-2008, 06:38 PM

Pole barn is going to be 24x40. Ceiling depends on how much clearance i'm going to need for a 2 post 10 - 12k lb. hoist. I'm going to have a ton of questions. This is the 4th building i've helped put up, but this one is going to be mine.

CONCRETE -
What type do you think i'll need ? Fiberglass reinforced ?
How deep ?
I will have a concrete patch leading to my 2 10x10 overhead doors. same questions apply here. I realize i don't want to bring out 2 different types of concrete.
concrete will be dropped off by pro's, and i will finish. Need hints and help here especially.

ELECTRICITY -
I'm going to have a hoist in there.
Wire welder.
Plasma cutter 120v
Air compressor 220v - anybody got a good deal on one ???
Misc lights and normal good stuff.
Will NOT have a furnace. just a wood stove that is enclosed and has a forced air fan on it - 120v.

OVERHEAD DOORS -
2 - 10x10 doors. Need advice on the best way to frame these in, and have everything turn out and look great.
I will have a sliding door on the back side leading into my hoist. Slider will probably be 14' long and depending on the ceiling height, probably 12' high.

BATHROOM
When finished, will have a shower, toilet, sink, and wash basin. (deals on these items too?)

I know i'm forgetting alot of stuff, but i'll update as i go along.

If anyone knows of any deals on lights, electrical wire (both 120 and 220v) I live in MI, so it would need to pretty close to be worthwhile.

I'm building this on a very limited budget, and have 95 % of the building materials purchased. So i'll need to get the building put up and finished off before the purchase of accessories.

Thanks everyone i appreciate your insight.

Whit · #2 02-29-2008, 07:10 PM

read this while I try to answer some of yer questions

http://www.dieselbombers.com/shade-t...op-7-days.html

Whit · #3 02-29-2008, 07:23 PM

CONCRETE -
What type do you think i'll need ? Fiberglass reinforced ?
How deep ?
I will have a concrete patch leading to my 2 10x10 overhead doors. same questions apply here. I realize i don't want to bring out 2 different types of concrete.
concrete will be dropped off by pro's, and i will finish. Need hints and help here especially.

I have poured over 7k cu yd of concrete in my 6 short years of bisness and had 11 peeps workin for me.................I got the concrete biz down pat

Myself I would insure a real good road base and moisture content then rent a compactor and get it real tite

I would pour a 5.5 -6" concrete 6 bag mix with no fiber mesh

for the posts anchors a 5 bag mig will be sufficient

you will hafta do a seperate batch of crete for the posts anyway so they will be set up and cured b4 ya pour the floor

you say you will have pro's drop it off and you will finish???

you will need a shoot man, 2 rakers and 2 screaders and one other on the bullfloat...........my advice here is for one of these dudes to know what he is doing and not just a weekend rendezvous kinna guy................if you dont then you will end up with a mess and hafta live with that the rest of yer life

also you will need to rent a 30-36" power trowel and someone needs to know how to run that and know all the tricks to the trade

62*f is the optimum concrete curing temp

donot drive on yer new floor for a minium of 7 days

jstange2 · #4 02-29-2008, 08:38 PM

Would you use 6x6 wire mesh or 2 ft on center 1/2 inch rebar Whitmore?
I-6DZL
I think most hoists are a minimum of 12 ft ceiling.
You should also think about some type of permanent heat source if you are going to run water in there unless you will be able to babysit the wood burner several times a day in the deep winter (Just to keep it above 45*).
If your doors measure an actual 10'x10', you should be able to make your rough opening 10'2" wide and 10'0 1/2" tall (from top of concrete). Then you will nail a 2x to the R.O. that extends beyond the front of the purlins at least 1 1/2 inches (probably a 2x10 asuming it is a polebarn with vertical steel finish) which would make the finished door opening 1 inch smaller both directions (the 2x will be wrapped with metal before the steel is installed).
I would assume the very smallest you could go for an electrical service would be 200 amp.
That is all I can think of. You probably already knew some of it, but hey, hope I helped some.

Josh

**IC Smoke** · #5 02-29-2008, 09:34 PM

Curtis
I can bring up my equipment, I have access to a lazer transit, walk behind compactor and "Vibra-strike" (12' head), and concrete tools. Free and clear! I did flat work (the tree svc was excavation and flat work) for 5 years along with Chris whom did it full time for over 3 years in the Saline area. we can help ya get the mud poured no problem!! I dont have access to a power trowel but Im sure we can find someone with one

If ya need anything just let me know and Ill be up in 45 min!

I-6DZL · #6 02-29-2008, 09:40 PM

Originally Posted by Whitmore

read this while I try to answer some of yer questions

http://www.dieselbombers.com/shade-t...op-7-days.html

I've read through, studied pic's about 20 times. I can only hope mine comes out half as well as yours.

Originally Posted by Whitmore

CONCRETE -
What type do you think i'll need ? Fiberglass reinforced ?
How deep ?
I will have a concrete patch leading to my 2 10x10 overhead doors. same questions apply here. I realize i don't want to bring out 2 different types of concrete.
concrete will be dropped off by pro's, and i will finish. Need hints and help here especially.

I have poured over 7k cu yd of concrete in my 6 short years of bisness and had 11 peeps workin for me.................I got the concrete biz down pat

Myself I would insure a real good road base and moisture content then rent a compactor and get it real tite

I would pour a 5.5 -6" concrete 6 bag mix with no fiber mesh

for the posts anchors a 5 bag mig will be sufficient

you will hafta do a seperate batch of crete for the posts anyway so they will be set up and cured b4 ya pour the floor

you say you will have pro's drop it off and you will finish???

you will need a shoot man, 2 rakers and 2 screaders and one other on the bullfloat...........my advice here is for one of these dudes to know what he is doing and not just a weekend rendezvous kinna guy................if you dont then you will end up with a mess and hafta live with that the rest of yer life

also you will need to rent a 30-36" power trowel and someone needs to know how to run that and know all the tricks to the trade

62*f is the optimum concrete curing temp

donot drive on yer new floor for a minium of 7 days

I'll be honest with ya, my extent of concrete knowledge could fit on a pencil eraser.
when you say a "6 bag mix, or 5 bag mix" you mean how much concrete per however much water content ? The "pro's, will just drop it off" I will have at least 3 other guys besides myself dragging concrete, and floating. As far as power floating, i've never done it, but i've seen the machine. What exactly does it do? Tighten the concrete and get most air bubbles out? I've spred crete on my inlaws barn, and my late fathers barn. We didn't power float either of them, and only my inlaws is starting to slightly crack after 6 years. We poured 6 to 8" cant remember. When i pour will i have to partition off each separate slab ?

Originally Posted by jstange2

Would you use 6x6 wire mesh or 2 ft on center 1/2 inch rebar Whitmore?
I-6DZL
I think most hoists are a minimum of 12 ft ceiling.
You should also think about some type of permanent heat source if you are going to run water in there unless you will be able to babysit the wood burner several times a day in the deep winter (Just to keep it above 45*).
If your doors measure an actual 10'x10', you should be able to make your rough opening 10'2" wide and 10'0 1/2" tall (from top of concrete). Then you will nail a 2x to the R.O. that extends beyond the front of the purlins at least 1 1/2 inches (probably a 2x10 asuming it is a polebarn with vertical steel finish) which would make the finished door opening 1 inch smaller both directions (the 2x will be wrapped with metal before the steel is installed).
I would assume the very smallest you could go for an electrical service would be 200 amp.
That is all I can think of. You probably already knew some of it, but hey, hope I helped some.

Josh

It will definately be a vertical polebarn finish. I was thinking about the water idea, and not sure on that as i won't be able to afford the propane to keep at a constant 50 degrees or so! the barn will be insulated with r13 in the walls, and about 2" polystyrene to finish off the inside.

i know i'll need 200 amp service in there also, but could i get away with feeding the barn off the main service from the house so i can backfeed with a generator when power goes out ?

You both have been more than helpful, and can only cross my fingers on how this turns out! Yes i'm a weekend warrior with many skills, just no tricks of the trade YET!!!

Thanks again
Curtis

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by IC Smoke

Curtis
I can bring up my equipment, I have access to a lazer transit, walk behind compactor and "Vibra-strike" (12' head), and concrete tools. Free and clear! I did flat work (the tree svc was excavation and flat work) for 5 years along with Chris whom did it full time for over 3 years in the Saline area. we can help ya get the mud poured no problem!! I dont have access to a power trowel but Im sure we can find someone with one

If ya need anything just let me know and Ill be up in 45 min!

Damn man i didn't know this about you, or Chris even HAHA. That would be sweet if you guys could give a hand. Do you have access to a tractor/hoe that we can level everything with and dig a trench for the sewer ? I'll owe ya big time!

Whit · #7 02-29-2008, 10:07 PM

Originally Posted by jstange2

Would you use 6x6 wire mesh or 2 ft on center 1/2 inch rebar Whitmore?

wire mesh nor rebar will be needed for a pole barn...........unless ya wanna run semi trucks or the likes thry there

sounds like you have a good hookup on crete guys

yes when I talk of 5 or 6 bag mix that means how many bags or cement per yard

I-6DZL · #8 02-29-2008, 10:11 PM

Originally Posted by Whitmore

wire mesh nor rebar will be needed for a pole barn...........unless ya wanna run semi trucks or the likes thry there

sounds like you have a good hookup on crete guys

yes when I talk of 5 or 6 bag mix that means how many bags or cement per yard

Sweet you da man!!! Thanks bud

Whit · #9 02-29-2008, 10:12 PM

I have had it and headin to bed but I will check in tomorrow on this............makes me wanna do another one

**LOGANSTANFORTH** · #10 02-29-2008, 10:53 PM

yes, you are gonna need a 200 amp service, make sure you got 110 outlets every 6 feet, in a house you got 6 plugs to a breaker normally, in a shop, i would do no more than 4 cause of the tools your running, on the 220 you will want all dedicated circuits to your machinery, use 220 where ever you can, welder, fans, air compressor, anything and everything, IT WILL SAVE TONS OF MONEY IN ELECTRICAL BILLS, the cost difference will be covered in the first year easily, yes you can also feed the box with a line from the main house if need be, i wouldnt power the whole shop, just the heater blower, some of the lights and a few plugs........and i would also recommend sawing the concrete too cause that will help stop cracking.......

**JON** · #11 02-29-2008, 11:07 PM

When we built my dads shop we used 1/2" rebar crossed every 2 feet. In the area that we installed the twin post we ran the concrete 6" thick as opposed to the 4" that the rest of the shop got.

**IC Smoke** · #12 02-29-2008, 11:09 PM

Curtis
our BX24 is a TLB goes down 6' 12" wide I can get it level in no time, we'll just need a load or two of sand for a good base to compact. anytime buddy!!! anytime!!

the only concrete I deal with is the stuff that comes on the truck!!!! Its up to you and the driver to have them mix it with more or less water for the slump. Id run wire mesh (concrete mill will have this in stock) but do 10x10 sections and cut a expansion joint in the concrete to help with cracks

2 guarantees with crete... its going to get hard and its going to crack!!

I-6DZL · #13 03-01-2008, 12:03 AM

Originally Posted by LOGANSTANFORTH

yes, you are gonna need a 200 amp service, make sure you got 110 outlets every 6 feet, in a house you got 6 plugs to a breaker normally, in a shop, i would do no more than 4 cause of the tools your running, on the 220 you will want all dedicated circuits to your machinery, use 220 where ever you can, welder, fans, air compressor, anything and everything, IT WILL SAVE TONS OF MONEY IN ELECTRICAL BILLS, the cost difference will be covered in the first year easily, yes you can also feed the box with a line from the main house if need be, i wouldnt power the whole shop, just the heater blower, some of the lights and a few plugs........and i would also recommend sawing the concrete too cause that will help stop cracking.......

thanks for the help, i realize 220 is cheaper, and i've already planned on running everything 220 that i possibly can!! I was thinking about 6 per breaker, but i think i'll take your advice and only put 4 outlets per breaker!!

Originally Posted by STROKETECH

When we built my dads shop we used 1/2" rebar crossed every 2 feet. In the area that we installed the twin post we ran the concrete 6" thick as opposed to the 4" that the rest of the shop got.

Thanks, i'll probably just put 6" throughout the whole polebarn, and probably go 8" thick on the approach to the barn. I'll have my main water line running under the approach, and the guys that dug my new well said to go extra thick there, so the constant running over it wouldn't freeze it up.

Originally Posted by Whitmore

I have had it and headin to bed but I will check in tomorrow on this............makes me wanna do another one

Too bad you weren't closer!! As i said before, you do an awesome job indeed!!!!

Originally Posted by IC Smoke

Curtis
our BX24 is a TLB goes down 6' 12" wide I can get it level in no time, we'll just need a load or two of sand for a good base to compact. anytime buddy!!! anytime!!

the only concrete I deal with is the stuff that comes on the truck!!!! Its up to you and the driver to have them mix it with more or less water for the slump. Id run wire mesh (concrete mill will have this in stock) but do 10x10 sections and cut a expansion joint in the concrete to help with cracks

2 guarantees with crete... its going to get hard and its going to crack!!

As far as leveling goes i'll take ya up on your offer. As soon as the weather cracks for decent days and the ground dry's out a little!!

I guess another question is now, will i really need the wire mesh? Couldn't really hurt to put it in there, as overkill is always best.

When you say cut the concrete, you mean, poor all one section, and then just get the saw out and cut releifs like 1-2" deep?

Thanks again everyone!

Uncle Bubba · #14 03-01-2008, 12:17 AM

Damn, can't neat this kinda response. I'm still tryin to figure out what I'm gonna do to replace the trash the tornado left behind. Wish I lived closer to anybody around here.

I-6DZL · #15 03-01-2008, 12:51 AM

Originally Posted by Uncle Bubba

Damn, can't neat this kinda response. I'm still tryin to figure out what I'm gonna do to replace the trash the tornado left behind. Wish I lived closer to anybody around here.

You're right man. You really can't beat the kind of friends that i've met on the couple of diesel boards i frequent. Hell lately i've talked with guys on here more than i have my own brother and he's only 15 mins away, at most!

Sorry to hear about the tornado, that really does suck. Wish i could help ya out in some way!

Have a good one

Curtis

The Following User Says Thank You to Whit For This Useful Post:
I-6DZL

The Following User Says Thank You to jstange2 For This Useful Post:
I-6DZL

The Following User Says Thank You to IC Smoke For This Useful Post:
I-6DZL

The Following User Says Thank You to LOGANSTANFORTH For This Useful Post:
I-6DZL

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