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hey guys im new to this forum but i had some questions that,well, most people couldnt answer i recently had an idea to convert a gasoline engine to diesel...now i know this means stupid high compression and alot of tuning to complete but i wanted ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #1  
Old 06-05-2009, 03:54 AM
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Default converting to diesel power

hey guys im new to this forum but i had some questions that,well, most people couldnt answer
i recently had an idea to convert a gasoline engine to diesel...now i know this means stupid high compression and alot of tuning to complete but i wanted to learmn wat else would hav to be changed...the motor i want to convert is a 91 ka24de out of a 240sx...some specs
9.5:1 compression, 89mm bore, 96mm stroke, dual over head cams, and 16 valves
i dont realy know how the cams of a diesel motor would compare either
ka24de-intake cam = 240 deg duration with a 1.6699”-1.6774” lobe height
exhaust cam = 248 deg duration with a 1.6699”-1.6931” lobe height
thanx in advance for reading and any help yall give... -
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  #2  
Old 06-05-2009, 07:17 AM
DieselMinded's Avatar
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what country are you in ? -

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  #3  
Old 06-05-2009, 08:09 AM
FastCR's Avatar
Diesel Wrench
Status: tired of the truck

   
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just some things that float off the top of my head:
you've gotta have at least 16:1 compression, and get the motor to hold it. Gotta have enough pressure in the injection system to inject at that compression (someone else can explain this better)
Nothings impossible, but you are gonna have to get the motor to hold that compression for starters. Intake heater could get you around running glow plugs. I'm also not sure how much a gas crank is gonna like having 16:1+ compression. -

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  #4  
Old 06-05-2009, 12:20 PM
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im in the u.s. in louisiana
well about the crank im thinking or buying a brian crower stroker kit and bringing it to 2.5L
as for a fuel system i guess i could try to copy the new volkswagan jettas fuel setup beings they are the sam size motor and i could rock 16.5:1 compression temperarily to see how it goes
my biggest concern would be the pistons hitting valves-i mean ive heard a ka would hav problems with this and im tryin to figure out how to fix this problem
o and as for the stroker kit it comes with custom forged pistons that u choose the size and compression ratio and also comes with forged rods and a light weight cromoly fully balanced crank -
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  #5  
Old 06-05-2009, 12:32 PM
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this has been done already, good ol GM tried it with there 5.7 liter gassers and converting them to diesel...needless to say you dont see many of them around and for good reason. The block, crank well hell just about everything isnt strong enough to support a diesel fuel system. Like said anything is possible but it wont last long and will be a big pain in the ass then it is cool.

You would be better off to find an old VW diesel or a Volvo diesel car and transplant one of those into the Nissan...Thats just my opinion -

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  #6  
Old 06-05-2009, 01:22 PM
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Status: tired of the truck

   
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I agree swap a different motor we assumed you were in Ukraine or wherever dutch people live or something. -
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  #7  
Old 06-05-2009, 07:47 PM
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dam talk about constructive criticism and ukraine hahaha thanx i think
anyways its just some random ass project i thought about but about not being able to handle the power i think wit the right internals and wat not...i.e. forged rods ,pistons, knife edged and heat treated and nitride coated and shot peaned cromoly crank, fat iron sleeves
u know the works
if gm can do it then i can and unless the put the best of internals in then i dont think it should be too much of a problem
p.s. dont yall love my long ass post? -
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  #8  
Old 06-09-2009, 12:29 AM
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no new input? -
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  #9  
Old 06-09-2009, 06:03 AM
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Status: Started install on prothane. Maybe I will get to finish when I get back from work trip.

   

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I think the GM 5.7L was a big block. Some of them ran great, but some were not worth the scrap weight of the motor. Had lots of problems with the Roussa-Master injector pumps (they hated water, I.E. 1 drop would smoke it). Also the heads were prone to cracking between the valves, no leaks in the water jacket or loss of compression, just looks funny when you look at it. My mom's had 100,000 miles on it when we pulled it just to see how it was wearing. That is when we found the cracks between the valves (should have put them back on after a valve job). It was on the 3rd injector pump and the original injectors.

That thing was a beast to work on. It barely fit between the fenders of the 79 olds. -
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  #10  
Old 06-09-2009, 06:18 AM
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If you're converting into a Diesel, dont use a KA24, rather go with a SR20 or CA18 since they are stronger blocks... tha KA isn't boost friendly either...

Or you could just go with a BMW M57B30TT (Twin Turbo Diesel) with it's ~300hp and ~700nm... and swap it into your Nissan -

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  #11  
Old 09-05-2009, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by angelic0- View Post
If you're converting into a Diesel, dont use a KA24, rather go with a SR20 or CA18 since they are stronger blocks... tha KA isn't boost friendly either...

Or you could just go with a BMW M57B30TT (Twin Turbo Diesel) with it's ~300hp and ~700nm... and swap it into your Nissan
well actually sr20's arent strong at all
alot people make the mistake of thinkin sr's can hadle way more than ka'z
simple fact is u can make more power runnin way more boost way more reliable in a ka than an sr
ive seen stock motor ka24's runnin 30 pounds makin 500 whp and runnin pretty strong
the only thing im worried about the ka is that yes it has an iron block but it has an aluminum head which would warp alot easier than the block
this brings up another question-wats the operating temperature of most diesel engines

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by jlawles2 View Post
I think the GM 5.7L was a big block. Some of them ran great, but some were not worth the scrap weight of the motor. Had lots of problems with the Roussa-Master injector pumps (they hated water, I.E. 1 drop would smoke it). Also the heads were prone to cracking between the valves, no leaks in the water jacket or loss of compression, just looks funny when you look at it. My mom's had 100,000 miles on it when we pulled it just to see how it was wearing. That is when we found the cracks between the valves (should have put them back on after a valve job). It was on the 3rd injector pump and the original injectors.

That thing was a beast to work on. It barely fit between the fenders of the 79 olds.
hey wat were the heads made of and wat made these cracks...i mean im sure they are stress fractures but is there any way to prevent this? doubt i could ceramic coat the head but wat about high temperature coating
o and as for a fuel pump could i use a gas pump like say a z32 fuel pump or skyline r33 pump -

Last edited by gunmetalsr; 09-05-2009 at 06:00 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  #12  
Old 09-05-2009, 07:38 PM
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Its been said, but I'll say it again. Your best bet is to swich to a diesel engine. It will be a LOT cheeper in the long run. jmho -

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