how to replace glowplugs: http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesdiese...plugrepair.htm

injection pump o-ring replacement: http://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_inje...p_o_ring_r.htm

broken odometer: http://dieselgiant.com/repairyourodometer.htm

repairing ignition lock: http://dieselgiant.com/repairignitionlock.htm

valve adjustment: http://dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm

intake seal replacement: http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesintak...ringreplac.htm

more stuff here from the same guy: http://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_dies...nance_tips.htm

this guy apparently has worked on these things for a living for a very long time and he seems to know his stuff.

i cant find how to turn up the injection pump up, but give me time.

 

Cool. Thanks Logan for helping make this site the best diesel site on the net.

 

I know how.... Just haven't got my pyro in yet to do it.

Also, if anyone has a Tach that is bouncing around and not working all the time I know how to fix that too!!!

 

Here, I will update this thread:

There are a couple things to do on the MW Pump governor on a OM617 engine. Not sure if it holds true on the OM60X engines as there was some electronic governing happening with those.

You have to take off the back plate of the governor. There are two different nuts that you can adjust.

One is the torque control, it is like the fuel plate on a P7100. It is dead center toward the bottom. Adjusting this may require idle adjustment. Changing this one is not really recommended. (SMOKE SCREW)

The second is the full load adjustment, it is toward the top right of the governor if looking at it from the driver's side. Turn that clockwise after releasing the lock nut and this will control max rack travel. SMALL changes are recommended.

The other item that is often reccomended is the removal of the ALDA on top of the pump. The ALDA limits rack travel under low boost conditions.

 

do you have written instruction on hold to add a boost kit to a 84 300d

 

I tried this and im having problems. I took off the back plate which was very difficult on the car because the oil filter canister was in the way! I got in there and there were more than just two screws. i found the one on the top right and i loosened lock nut and turned the big black nut behind it a quarter turn and i didnt notice anything? Will i notice anything or do i need to go more? And i was going to turn up smoke screw because i would like it to smoke a little more? how much do i need to turn that and which way? I was also wondering if maybe you had a pic or a diagram that i can tell which screw is what? Any info would really help me out and i would really appreciate it! thanks

 

Sorry for the late response here is a photo that I have borrowed from Schumanautomotive.com



Of course you can skip the full load adjustment all together and just remove the rack limiter which gives you almost another 6mm of travel. Basically it removes the full fuel on start block.

There is a write up in the Schumanautomotive forums under their Superturbo section.

 

So if i want to make my car smoke would i turn up the torque control? and if so how doesnt it have a clip on it or do i put shims in it or what? And to remove the rack stop do i remove the alda? or can i just turn the full load screw all the way in?
one more question would this engine handle a turbo off of a 5.9 cummins i noticed the exhaust housing is a little smaller ane the intake is bigger would this be a good idea or no?
i got on that Schumanautomotive.com site and i tried to get on that superturbo forum and it says you have to have a password to get in to it! i Was wondering if you could give it to me if your allowed to atleast i would really appreciate it! if you can you can pm it to me!

thanks

 

Just send a PM to boneheaddoctor or henryschuman on there to get the password. Tell them USMC_YMMOT sent you. When you get into the superturbo section make sure to read about the torque control and the full load. Both can lead to a run away engine if you get wild with them. SMALL adjustments are reccomended. Make sure to have a pyro gauge.

I would look for a 9cm housing on a turbo from a Dodge. I know of guys putting an HX35 on these 80's 3.0L 5cyl diesels.

 

normal 617.95x glowplug replacement.I've found that ratching wrenches are the best.I have one 8mm and a 12mm for glowplugs.Number five glowplug can be the hardest one.I because of small arms reach around the oil filter and start my wrench.For both glowplug 4 and 5, kneeling on aircleaner looking down at glow plugs help to remove better too.Always use small needle nost pilers to hold glowplug wire from turning as you tighten nuts.