I need to remove the 140 gallon fuel tank from my boat. I need to cut a notch in the top of the tank to be able to get it out. It has been emptied, but did contain gas. Can someone suggest a safe way to cut the tank? -

piperca's Sig:

1999 2500 SLT, QC, LB, 2WD, Auto, 4:10's, VA V5, RV275, S&B Intake, AFS Big Dog Fuel System, Vulcan Draw Straw, Isspro Fuel Pressure, Westach Boost/EGT Combo, CSS front springs 2" over-stock, KYB MonoMax, DTT Noise Filter, "Dreaded 53 Block", New VP44 @ 135k.

Hey Scottman, glad to hear from ya. Just pull the cap for a few hours or days to let any vapors dissipate and it should be fine as long as it's dry. Worst case scenario even if there is some drops of fuel in the bottom of the tank it would just burn away. As long as its not sealed no worries about explosions.

Depending on how wide and long the cut is you can use about anything to cut it. A body grinder, hacksaw, sawzall, just about anything you have handy will go through alluminum.

The real trick will be gettin a good welder to stitch it back up right. -

Uncle Bubba's Sig:

99 Quad Cab, 4wd, Drag Comp W/Pump Wire & Boost Elbow installed, K&N Air Canon, MBRP exhaust, Belt Drive Lift Pump and bottom Bulkhead feed from the tank, Isspro EV Pyrometer, Boost Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge, DT Pro Fab Trac Bar, South Bend 13-1.25 Con O Clutch, Ranch Hand Bumper, Borgeson Steering Shaft, Black Silicone Boots, 2" Lift Soft Ride Front Coils, Solenoid High Idle Kit, Bilstein 5100 HD Shocks, Rickson 19.5 Wheels w/Hancoock Rubber, HD Maxx Link Sway Bar Links, Superlift dual front stabilizer, EGR Brakes Front and Back, RV275 Injector's, Blue Chip VP44, Prodigy brake controller, B&W Gooseneck hitch and more I can't remember right now. Not to mention more to come I'm sure.
374.2/846.7 at 30psi

Hey, Dennis, good to hear from you.

I am replacing the tank, so it doesn't matter what condition it gets in. I've been given nothing but horror stories about cutting it and am now a bit scared to cut into it. Are you sure it's safe? I was told aluminum doesn't spark when it's cut, is this true? -

I've never had Al spark on me.
blow compressed in the pick up tube it'll vent out of another hole. -

Carbon Footprint's Sig:

www.inlandmarinediesel.com
My tool
2005 Ram 2500QC 2WD SB G56. Turned 100k on 5/29/07
My toy
2002 TJ 15spd with some lift and tires

If you use a body grinder it will spark, but not if you use a saw. The metal is to soft. An explosion can only happen if it is a sealed container otherwise it just throws a fireball and burns itself out even if there is still fuel residue in there. I've burned through a fuel tank full a fuel using a torch to cut stuff off the frame and got careless and the only thing that caught fire was what spilled out. I had to stick my finger in the hole and hollar for somebody to bring a tank over to drain the fuel into.

But to answer your question, as long as all the fuel is out and it has aired out for a while your fine. If you really wanna test this just drop a match in an old fuel can that has sat around with the cap off.

Be sure to let us know if I'm right. -

I'll have my wife drop you a PM if I don't ... -

I gotta ask though. Why are you pulling this tank. Theres really nothin that can go wrong with an alluminum tank is there. -

When the tank was installed, 27-28 years ago, it was bedded in foam. Unfortunately, moisture gets between the foam and the tank and corrosion begins. Since I am repowering, I am pulling the tank and replacing it. So far, it appears that the tank really didn't need replaced. Sort of like a KDP on a 24 valve, you don't know what you've got until you pull it ... isn't that right Doctor! -

yep...

and sometimes a sloppy build will have a screw under the tank that will abrade a hole in it. -

There has never been a sloppy built Skipjack! One of the best built boats on the left coast ... but their tanks have been a weak spot. -

Just drop that tank right back in then. I can't even imagine the cost on a new one. Even the scrap metal value of that old tank is more then you would have paid for a new tank a few years ago. I know even in Cali there is somebody that can weld alluminum and th's a lot cheaper and just as good as new. Just keep the piece you cut out so they can put it back. -

I am going to check it out, once it is completely out of the boat. The problem with the tank is that it develops pinholes, which never amount to more than that, but there are normally lots of them. I may find some damage once it's out, we'll see. -

I bet the only problem you may find is if they used some fittings made of the wrong kinda metal and oxidation or whatever the fancy term for it is took place. Other then that alluminum is the best metal there is for a fuel tank.

I would also suggest that whatever tank you put back in that you use some fuel tank coating on the outside of it. This will keep any water that get's trapped in there again from doing any damage. It's cheap and easy to use. It's normaly made to line the inside but it's just as affective on the outside as long as it's not exposed to the sun. -

The new tank will not be bedded in foam. It will be installed with an airway surrounding the tank, so that corrosion is not a problem in the future. -

Thought you were sellin that boat anyway. Last I heard was it was gettin replaced with an RV and "Ford". -