Jeep Liberty Discussion of Jeep Liberty CRD Diesels

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  #11  
Old 02-19-2014, 09:15 PM
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Default RE: Sonnax Jeep Liberty 2005 CRD

Just tool possession of my Jeep CRD tonight! Still on the trailer. Tomorrow is the big day. How should I test this I wonder. Should I get into it up a hill and try to get shudder or what? And then repeat with Sonnax I suppose?

LN

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Correction: Just "took" possession...

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"The biggest weakness is wear in the TC Limit bore of the pump, which should be addressed if the vehicle has any kind of mileage. This will cause the converter to drag and can lead to failure of the lining."

"The kit is designed to increase clutch holding and add slightly firmer shift quality."

"The line pressure increase will help clutch holding, so yes it will help extend the life of the transmission, especially when towing or under hard acceleration."
 

Last edited by lanthony2020; 02-19-2014 at 09:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #12  
Old 02-19-2014, 09:27 PM
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That will give you shutter for sure. I had my transmission rebuilt with the new euro version TC and still had shutter. I then drove to Fort Walton Beach FL @ Suncost Transmission and bought the upgraded HD TC. No more shutter I then added the GED TCM tune and WOW what a difference, the transmission is like a Rock now… I am very curious if the Sunnax booster works… See the problems is in the springs inside the TC they are not rated for the amount of torque our motors put out causing shutter.. The after market TC uses much #heaver springs + the better fluid control.. Please let us know how this turns out. Thanks..
 
  #13  
Old 02-20-2014, 07:33 PM
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Sonnax also has the spring upgrade kit for the TC. I asked about this but they came back with this kit after explaining the most prevalent problem with these?

I am almost ready for the first drive tryout. I will take it easy and then get into it a bit going up a hill or two. Any rpm that seems to bring this out more?

LN

"We also offer a repair for the TC limit bore 44912-03K - TC Limit Valve Kit - Sonnax if this is worn, which is very typical for this unit." All this for stock???

Line Pressure Booster 44957-LB2 - Line Pressure Booster - Sonnax
"

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Jeep looks new and runs great. Could not produce shudder. Uphill on I29 up to 75 against a 40 mph wind, no problems. Did shift down and then held 75 perfectly. Passed a Chevy Tahoe fighting the wind.

Going to have the line pressure Sonnax kit installed in the morning. Good insurance by the sounds of it.

I have been reading a lot about the awaited Euro TC? On one forum someone got Jeep at 17K to replace the TC on a recall? I wonder why everyone did not get this done?

Love my blue Liberty Sport. Pretty much loaded. Got the under carage protection and tow and rear torque lock and a lot more. New Yokahoma tires and new spare to boot!
 

Last edited by lanthony2020; 02-20-2014 at 07:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #14  
Old 02-20-2014, 08:33 PM
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Congratulations on your new Jeep! I love mine… I was getting shutter after reaching the first or second over drive and driving at the minimum speed entering a hill before the transmission was able to downshift by giving it some fuel, thats when you will get shutter..Your not going to get shutter under higher RPM it will be under low RPM in Overdrive trying to regain speed….
 
  #15  
Old 02-22-2014, 05:22 PM
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Ok, when "loading" then. That makes sense. I just had my mechanic install the Sonnax line pressure booster an hour ago. He watched the pressure increase on his Snap-On and was quite impressed. Unlike many devises that increase line pressure, this curves as not to mess up idling and the like. Engineering I guess it is called.

Driving home "two miles" was not able to feel or tell any difference. I will be on the highway and city later today and will report. I do not think this device is to solve the shudder problems, but apparently it will help save the tranny or prolong it's life. The device makes sense to me.

Still wondering why some got recalls on the stock TC while others did not?

LN

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I'm new to the CRD but not to diesels. Raised on a farm with several tractors. I also owned the first diesel stern drive on Lake Powell, as well a Duramax, VW TDI, Ford F350 7.3 and now this.

The big rigs have a tow/haul button for a reason. It is called "loading." It results in things breaking. Heavy load at low RPM.

All of these new diesels like RPM. My 2003 Trophy Cummins (ISUZU) liked 4000RPM under load. Cummins kicked this up to 4200 because of loading and blowing pistons, mostly at 2300 - 3000.

If you are towing heavy, up a hill or in a big wind, you should never let it kick into overdrive, ever. I am wondering now if this is what everyone has been doing with these to cause the problems?

Overdrive is a "no-no" with hills and a load or even just a heavy load. Makes me wonder now?

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I jumped over with this to JeepForum.com

2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L Tow/Haul
 

Last edited by lanthony2020; 02-22-2014 at 05:22 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #16  
Old 05-12-2014, 07:17 PM
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Here's a bit of tuition I've paid for everybody (we could also call it one of the hidden costs of apartment-dwelling).... If you have a mysterious loss of motor oil, it might be something really simple and dumb. I was worried that either the delivery or the return tube to and from the turbocharger had a leak. ....Nope... took my assumption and my Libby over to the Diesel place, and, a $90 exam later, the dude tells me a road-rock had punctured my oil filter. Pretty expensive information for a $6 problem. This, after having spent the last 3 weeks dumping expensive oil thru it to keep it operational.

If you have a mystery leak, on the right-hand side, it might be just that simple/cheap to fix.
 
  #17  
Old 05-13-2014, 08:54 AM
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Since there's no skid plate to protect the oil filter, I'm considering getting a bunch of neodymium magnets and one of those flexible cutting boards and making a two-or-three layered sleeve to attach directly to the filter can. 2 rows of 3 magnets, a layer of that plastic, another magnet on each spot to sandwich the plastic in place. The oil heat shouldn't melt the plastic, except maybe where the heat conducts thru the magnets. Doesn't get that hot, though does it? Would a piece of sheet steel be better? Maybe also a short piece of large-diameter PVC or ABS held onto the filter by magnets... Don't want to get too heavy, since that's a filter-head, and not designed to carry a lot of weight.
 
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