I just installed a bypass oil filter in both my Dodge Cummins and my TDI Jetta, and I thought I should let you guys on the forum know of the results. I've been running Rotella T synthetic oil in both engines for quite a while. Just from the financial standpoint I figure it's cheaper to change a toilet paper filter and top off my oil every three months and then change the oil once a year, than it was costing me to change the oil and filter quarterly.

This is the link to the Frantz oil filter company we are talking about Frantz Oil Filters

and the place you can buy them Frantz Filters Manufactured by We Filter It! Inc - Oil, Diesel and Gas Filters . The person I was in contact with was Deborah Walker Harley her e-mail address is DWalkerHarley@wefilterit.com



The kits I ordered came with everything I needed to install them on my truckand car and both kits are completely removable so I can use them on my next car/truck. They are a really high quality made in America product that many people are still using from the 1960s when they were invented, and I can't say enough good about them. My only advice is to get a kit that doesn't require you to puncture the oil pan on your truck (use the oil fill cap or drain plug as the location for the return line) and order plenty of their oil filters (toilet paper rolls) when you place your order so you don't need to pay for shipping a second time when you need more filters.



I am not going to be able to include pictures, because my camera is not working.


Less time and money changing oil = more beer -

Bio Ram 2500's Sig:

Black 1999 Ram 2500 SLT regular cab, 4x4, 5-spd, 120k miles. Slightly modified: BHAF, silencer ring MIA, power edge comp tuner box, boost and egt gauges, low fuel pressure light, trailer brakes, beefed up stater solenoid, Air Dog 100, new (remanufactured) VP44.
David (Great Falls, Montana)

IDK about using toilet paper for a filter media. -

wildbill's Sig:

I Drive An 06 Dodge Ram 2500

Powered By a 5.9 Cummins

It Has Some Parts But Could Use More

96,000 Miles

Big Sky Bombers Social Group

I almost bought me one of these but I still need info as to wheather the filter takes out the oil additives......................I need oil analysis to prove me here, in other words I am interested in the total TBN number from the sample

more info here

Anatomy Of A Frantz Oil Bypass Filter -

Whit's Sig:

* 01 Cummins/Dodge/HO/6 speed*275 injectors*PDR 35 turbo w/14cm housing & high pressure boots*HTT 3 piece ported exhaust manifold*Progaurd 7 with prefilter*Edge Comp*Fass II*Southbend con OFE*Jacobs brake*5"Stacks Big ens*E/F shift knob w/2low & brake switch*10 Gages*KW Ram air System cab controlled*Rickson 19.5x265's*True speed calibrator*Rancho 9000's*DT track bar*DSS steering stabilizer*KW Side impact rails*KW Traction Bars*Toolbox/fueltank 60 gal Combo*Mag High Tech Diff Cover*Ranchand bumpers*Grover air horns*Rear Wheel Cylinder Upgrade DYNO 375 Horse 941 Torque

Always remember...when life hands you Lemons,ask for Tequila and Salt and call me over!

There was a huge discussion about that filter in Germany. It was called the "Trabold filter". But worked in the same way.
They tested it several times with the same result: being not worth to be installed. It does not extend the life span of oil. The filter media isn't stable enough.
Bypass filter media has to be designed to withstand hot oil without to collapse.

You can keep down the amount of fine particles. But you aren't able to to extend the service interval. Additives are used up after a time. Oil changes its viscosity due to thermal break down.
Having longer service intervals may work in a non turbo gas engine with lower engine loads.
Our turbo driven high compression engines "wear" oil quickly. Just feel the oil between your fingers when you pour in fresh oil and do the same when you change it. The used oil feels a lot thinner than the fresh oil. Its used up.

German car manufacures don't allow that filter to be installed. But they do allow it with serious filters like the Amsoil, Hengst and Mahle.

I'm thinking about bypass filtration a while, but I wouldn't use anything less than OEM specs. A toilet paper roll doesn't look like properly engineered to me- wrong filter media.

I can watch bypass filters in nearly every military vehicle. They have a very fine filtering media, constructed of synthetic fibers. They look like a spin on filter. But those spin-on filters are huge compared with an oil filter to provide a huge filtering area.

Colour of oil has nothing to do with oil quality. Black oil only states that the oil is keeping all contaminats in flow.Much better than sticking to parts, huh?

Sorry, a toilet paper filter may work, but I don't trust them. There are manufactures around producing products mil. tested- that my measuring line.

I had a good smile as I read the testimonials. They only show one comment with a mileage of 133000. Thats nothing worth to mention. Every engine will handle that mileage. Add a zero behind it and I will start to think about it.

I always miss engine test runs with an measured wear before and afterwards the test. The dipstick showed in the other thread was from a gas engine. Oil should still be that clean after only 3k miles.But that doesn't work on a Diesel- the oil has to take the soot. -

Deezel Stink3r's Sig:

1999 Jeep Cherokee 2.5 TD VM Diesel engine, Bosio Fratelli Injectors, Manual Forge MUNOS boost controller, oil cooler fan operated at 212°, standby coolant pump with electronic controlled temperature and delay, oil temperature & boost gauge by VDO, ARB rear locker, Optima red top

I had one for a while and just got tired of changing out the element so often. (every 2500 miles). I only put around 20k a year on my truck, but still that is 8 changes vs the Amsoil one every 25k. Granted the TP is darn near free vs $50 for the Amsoil filter though.

I had a small writeup/photos on the Idaho Turbo Diesels site but that place went the way of the dodo so all was lost -

interesting Michael, I do know that soot particles are <2 micron as I run the Amsoil BE100 bypass filter, I would like to soot outa my oil too so it wouldnt get so black but as you stated the soot needs to be suspended in the oil -

The bypass filter takes only 10% of the oil. That means it will take soot. But 90 % of the oil is still unfiltered and used as a soot carrier. Thank god- I don't want have soot sticking in the turbo bearings( tightest moving part in the engine behind VP)
As long as I now the bypass filter will take particles smaller than 5 micrometer down to 1micrometer I will be happy.
I really don't feel the need to change and dipose an oily TP roll 8 times a year. -

the OEM filter is good to 10 micron absolute so aparently Cummins says is OK for 10 micron soot to be in the system????????

do soot particles ball up ? -

Soot is much smaller than 5 micron - but there are still metal and dirt parts in the engine not being filtered.
As I cleaned my engine there was some soot chunked up in nocks and crannys. With the change to Synthectics they were solved and the engine is clean inside.

I don't think the OEM will get down to this small size like 10micron, but I assume filter efficency is usually measured around 30 micron. If you go smaller in the main you will restrict oil flow. A human hair has a "thickness" of 70 micrometer! -

Myth #1
DOES OIL BREAK DOWN OR WEAR OUT?
I am often asked by a suspecting prospective customer “Doesn’t Oil Wear Out or Break Down?” This is brought about by myths, untrue stories, or mostly just by lack of knowledge of oil properties. My answer is always, “No, Oil gets dirty but it does not wear out.” This fact is substantiated by the U. S. Bureau of Standards, the Shell Oil Company, the U. S. Air Force, and many others. Combustion in an engine creates several byproducts including water, soot, carbon, heat, and gases. Let’s not concentrate on gasses because that is corrected by your smog system. Heat is another thing that is controlled by your cooling system. That leaves soot and water vapor and/or liquid. Of course metal wear is also happening and minute particles of metal or bearing material is mixed in the oil.
The water is often seen at the exhaust pipe dripping or in the form of white smoke. This is not harmful if the engine is run for a significant time for it to evaporate and dispense out the system but what happens when it doesn’t? On short runs to the post office or short trip to the store is harmful to the engine because this water doesn’t get a chance to burn off and will combine to form acid. This is bad.
Fortunately, the Frantz Oil Filter is efficient enough to eliminate or capture small quantities of water in liquid form and trap it from your lubrication system reducing the hazard to your mechanical parts. Frantz Oil Filters can remove or capture as much as six ounces of water. Do you realize how much six ounces actually is? It is 12 tablespoons, 177 milliliters, or 3/4 of a cup of liquid. Yes, similar to almost a cup of coffee.
During an experiment today, I wanted to know how much water in liquid form a typical roll of toilet paper would hold. I started out coloring 1240ml or 2.5 pints of water and used blue food coloring to better view the results. It is amazing how much water a roll of toilet paper can actually retain.
-

DieselMinded's Sig:

My initial photo shows filling the measuring pitcher from the faucet after starting with several drops of blue food coloring. This is followed by a close-up of the measured water to begin the test.
Next, it shows the clear beaker, a TP cartridge from a new Frantz Oil Filter from my stock, and a plastic container to plug up the center cardboard from retaining any volume of water during test. A plastic plug is in the top of the center cardboard. Now we’re ready to start the test.

I used a funnel to help direct the water directly into the TP and not filling the cardboard center or the bottom of the beaker.

The next photos are stages of filling the TP with the colored water from the pitcher.

A little spillage to the bottom of the beaker is absorbed from below.
Getting good absorbtion now.
Then a photo shows the saturation point indicated by fluid in the bottom of the beaker.
This surplus fluid is poured back into the pitcher leaving the beaker dry and containing a saturated roll of TP with colored water.
Now it is time to measure the remaining water in the pitcher and calculate the difference which is the water the roll of TP absorbed. The starting water was approximately 41 ounces or 1240 ml or a little over 2.5 pints of water. The final measurement was about 12 ounces or 865 ml or about 3/4 pint left. The difference equals 29 ounces or 865 ml or 1.75 pints of water absorbed. This is almost FIVE TIMES the amount of water Frantz claims the TP will retain or remove from your oil. I was quite impressed with the results of my unofficial experiment.
Getting back to my original statement, soot or carbon is also a product of combustion along with metal wear. The Frantz Oil Filter filters out these materials to a much finer degree simply because of the amount of filtering material the oil is run through in the filtering process.
These impurities are sometimes visible after installing a Frantz Oil Filter and changing the filter TP element. The top of the TP occasionally will have shiny objects embedded. Guess what? It’s not water or oil. It’s metal. Similarly, there will be dirty soot or carbon trapped by the Frantz TP element. These impurities diminish in severity as you continue to use the Frantz Filter and change your TP element regularly.
These are impurities your stock car manufacturer’s filter missed. Even though the Frantz Oil Filter does this excellent cleaning of your engine oil, it does not remove the additives the oil was produced with so you are still receiving those benefits. The result is the oil in your engine is almost as pure as when you first poured it in your engine.
Be aware however, the coloring may change. Black or dark oil is not necessarily dirty oil. The heat generated by the engine will act on the additives and sometimes change the original color of the oil. One of my car’s oil is a light machine oil color or very light honey color while my other car is a dark black color. One is easily viewed on the dipstick while the other could be mistaken for no oil at all on the dipstick.
A good test is using a blotter or coffee filter paper and drip a drop of oil onto it and after a few minutes, view it to see any soot or particles on the white paper. The oil should fade into just a darkened spot with no visible soot or anything else showing in the spot if it is clean. Of course you could also spend the money you are saving with your Frantz Oil Filter and have an oil sample evaluated and tested at a lab. This would be the ultimate proof.
Speaking of saving money, there is no need to change your Frantz Oil Filter TP cartridge every 1000 miles. This will negate the savings Frantz is trying to assist you with. Normal driving can expect a filter change about every 3000 miles or perhaps every two or three months. -

Hmm, looks nice, but there are three major mistakes!

1. Put that TP roll into engine oil, let it soak with oil and do the test again. You will be amazed how little water stays in the TP. The engine is filled up with oil, not with water. So does the filter.

2. The TP roll, if installed properly, does not have that space inside the filter housing to expand.

3. Can absorb doesn 't mean it does absorb.

The condensation you talk about builds up during short range driving. Drive a longer distance and see the amount of water diminishing into vapor . ( Unless you don't have a serious coolant leackage)

Engine oil does deteriorate over time and heatcycling.

Especially those higher molecules chains in 5 W40 for example.

These chains get cracked up. The viscosity is no longer able to cover grade 5 and grade40.
The heat and cold lubricity capabilities are getting smaller(lesser range). How do you call that if not deterioration?

Syns have a better withstand against that cracking. They are developed for that use.

Thats the major reason to change oil, along with getting rid of contaminants.

Or do you still have a SAE 30 engine? I don't think so.

I have opened on of those "Mann" bypass filters, there is a fiber inside looking like a TP roll, but it feels like a silk stuff. It compressed very tight together. Height is almost ( to stay in TP units ;-)) twice that height than a single TP. This is maybe the results for a longer usable duration of the filter. You can't rip or cut that filter. It sticks tight together.

Don't tell me you would use a TP main oil filter if available. You wouldn't trust a 90cent TP roll item to protect a value of lets say 20.000$ or 40.000$, would you?
You still use it, because failure doesn't matter if the TP filter cloggs- so what...?


Germans are hard to convince, huh? -

I installed my MotorGuard TP bypass when my truck hit 40,000 miles. Prior to that, I changed the oil and OEM filter at 5,000 mile intervals. That said, I've not "changed" my oil in over 70,000 miles now running my MotorGuard.

I change out the TP at 1500-2000 mile intervals and add the appropriate make up oil.....about a quart. I change the OEM filter yearly. My oil analysis come back stellar. I can post them if y'all insist.

The TP DOES NOT BREAK DOWN in the oil!!!!!! That is a fact. I can post pictures of that also if you'd like me to.

What do y'all have against these filters????? They've been used on automobiles since the '50's. TP was the best and tightest filter media available then. And now, it still filters (can you say sub-micronic) finer than any other mass produced bypass filter.

So until you've got hard facts about the TP filters, don't go spreading rumors about them. You sound like a jealous Amsoil saleman!!!!! -

dorkweed's Sig:

White, 04.5, QC, SB, 4x4, 6sp, Smarty Revo, SB Con OFE, MBRP exhaust, Fram Boost 2 intake, Tone Ring Mod, GDP Walbro LP, GDP 2 Micron FF, Fuel Tank Vent Mod, MotorGuard TP Bypass Oil Filter, AutoMeter Gauges, 383HP+ 896ft.lbs.

NRA LIFE MEMBER

Years ago I know the military used these TP filters also but for some reason went away from them, can't tell ya why, never got an answer I believed on that one. From the readin I did a few years back when I wanted one of these things I would have to believe that they do work as promised but as was mentioned before my reservations were the fact that they actually filter such a small percentage of the oil.

Besides, what's wrong with soot. Doesn't soot help reduce friction to kinda like graphite. -

Uncle Bubba's Sig:

99 Quad Cab, 4wd, Drag Comp W/Pump Wire & Boost Elbow installed, K&N Air Canon, MBRP exhaust, Belt Drive Lift Pump and bottom Bulkhead feed from the tank, Isspro EV Pyrometer, Boost Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge, DT Pro Fab Trac Bar, South Bend 13-1.25 Con O Clutch, Ranch Hand Bumper, Borgeson Steering Shaft, Black Silicone Boots, 2" Lift Soft Ride Front Coils, Solenoid High Idle Kit, Bilstein 5100 HD Shocks, Rickson 19.5 Wheels w/Hancoock Rubber, HD Maxx Link Sway Bar Links, Superlift dual front stabilizer, EGR Brakes Front and Back, RV275 Injector's, Blue Chip VP44, Prodigy brake controller, B&W Gooseneck hitch and more I can't remember right now. Not to mention more to come I'm sure.
374.2/846.7 at 30psi

You mentioned it already:

-"TP was the best and tightest filter media available then."-

We live in a world of micro- and nanofibers now. TP is not up to date.
Thats the reason.
I don't have anything against those filters( If I had I would use it).
Maybe it is simply to simple... -