i bought a 2001 dodge cummins with 114k at the end of june this year...within the first two weeks the lift pump went out. i tried to get the dealer to go half with me. im 17 and work part time just to make payments..they wouldnt help me out. the truck sat for a month not running then i got a new temporary lift pump now at 116k the tranny is slipping and the trac bar is going out and the starter or connection on the starter is bad....should i go back on the dealership and try and make them pay for it..? this all happened within two months and 2000 miles..........once again im 17 making minimum wage and fareway...i dont have hardly any money...

did you sign the as-is paper..if you signed it then you agreed that no matter what happens from when you drive it off the lot its your problem...lift pumps are known to go out...dodge trannies are junk.

sorry to hear about you truck bud but like i said if you signed the paper then they are not in any means responsible for "warranty" repairs

stkdram55's Sig:

Just an Inline 6 Cylinder

Only 2 defining forces have ever offered to die for you.....Jesus Christ and the American Soldier..
One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.

i did sign the as is paper but i thought there was a lemon law or something or maybe thats just for new vehicles

if you could prove that they knew the defects were there when you bought it, you might have something...but yes i think the lemon laws are only for new vehicles

well i found there was gasket leaks in the back and i was going to try and use that against them and say they knew something was wrong....transmissions usually just dont go bad over night

bluecummins's Sig:

2001 dodge 2500 cummins, juice with attitude, air dog 150, straight piped, k&n air, clearance lights

no they don't I know I had some problems like this when i bought my 95 dodge and my 03 dmax and the chevy dealer told me they would comp me a few hundred towards a thousand plus dollar fix. the dodge I was on my own cuz it was a privately owned used car dealer.

I hope you have better luck than I did and sorry to hear about your luck with the truck.

toy4xchris's Sig:

95 Dodge 3500 ext drw. Goerend v/b and t/c, stock 215 inj, 180p-pump, 3k gsk, 10 plt, BHAF, schied cam, 4" turbo to side exit exhaust, cowl induction hood, and more to come....

Unfortunately, they probably won't help. I know if I was going to buy a 24 Valve, the absolute FIRST thing I would check would be an aftermarket lift pump. If it didn't have one, I would make them hook a fuel pressure gauge to it, to confirm it wouldn't crap out on me one the way home. I would then park it until an aftermarket lift pump and fuel pressure gauge were installed.

The lift pumps are known to go out on the VP's, so I think that would be your fault, for not having a fuel pressure gauge and aftermarket lift pump, and I don't think the dealer should help.

However, if the truck was stock, there should be no reason for the transmission to go out. If it has a tuner or some power adder on it, you're out of luck.

As for the starter, you can get a rebuild kit from Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories – Geno’s Garage to rebuild the one you have, and it has beefier contacts than even a new one, so it will last longer than a new one and the rebuild kit will cost less.

peobryant's Sig:

'91.5 D350, 2wd Dually, 4" Straight Pipe, 366 Spring, DennyT Stage II Fuel Pin, Isspro Boost, Pyro, Tranny and Fuel Pressure Gauges

Brothers: '97 2500, 12 Valve, 4wd, 5spd, 716rwhp, 1200+rwtq, Single Turbo, Fuel Only, 5" Stack

They do when you have a 17 year old throwing an Edge juice on a truck with 117,000 miles already.

You guys are either giving dealers too much credit, or just expecting too much. Do you really think the dealer knows or even cares about the common issues on a 8 year old used truck with 117,000 miles? They are in the business of selling cars, not making sure you get a wore out truck that can make it another 100,000 miles.

Sorry man, but you're going to have to face the facts, working for minimum wage is going to be tough to keep up the maintenance on one of these trucks. If you want to keep the truck and more importantly keep it running, either get a better job or sell the hot rod stuff and be nice to your truck.

94Matt's Sig:

2008 Dodge Cummins Quad cab, long bed, 4x4, manual. Herd bumper, 5" exhaust, egr/dpf delete, Black Maxx

2007 Chevy Duramax Crew cab, long bed, 4x4, auto. Ali-arc bumper, Edge hot juice/attitude

The Fodge, a 1993 Ford 4x4 reg cab, 03 Cummins common rail, with southbend FE and NV4500

Bunch of gassers

well first off you dont need to be a dickhead i was just asking for help and the chip was already in it

Not trying to be dude. Just stating the obvious, you have a truck with a chip on it, and you killed the transmission in 2000 miles. That's not Dodge's fault, nor is it the dealers fault. I've done the same thing, tap the pump wire and boom, the trans is toast if your not careful.

Look at it this way, if the dealer helps you out with this, then they are going to have to pass that cost on to the other customers. I don't want to have to pay an extra $100 on my next new truck because you screwed up the used one you bought and can't afford to fix it.

That's life kid

This is what is meant by buyer be ware, dealerships are in business to make money and in my experience they wont go out of there way to help you they have even been known to try to get out of fixing vehicles under warranty.

These are all very common problems with 24v trucks I went through all of them with mine

Lift pump - I went through 3 before I got smart and put in a quality unit in like a FASS or Air Dog
Starter - The contacts inside get worn down over time and need to be replaced there are some great inexpensive kits out there
Track bar - The upper joint on these wares out easily, its probably the weakest point in the dodges front suspension. They can be replaced with another stocker but it will ware out again especially if you add bigger tires, there are a few aftermarket ones that are much stronger but 2-3 times the price.
Trans - You can blow one of these trans stock so one with a chip probably has a bit more wear on it and is a ticking time bomb, another thing I learned the hard way i replaced mine twice with a jasper before I got smart and put a quality goerend billet trans in it.

Hope we can help you out, most of us have been through these prolems with dealers and trucks.

DIESELDENT's Sig:

Rob

06 3500 MEGA cab auto srw 4x4.
4" mbrp duals. AFE, Mag-Hytec

95 3500 reg cab dually 4x4.
Gauges, 100 plate, 3k gsk, K&N, 5" exhaust
Goerend Trans w/ billet input and tripple disk

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also i belive that you have to have the same problem like 3 times in a certian time frame

sidekick's Sig:

2006 Ram 2500 6" Fabtech lift, 35" Toyo Open Country M/T tires,
18" Xtreme Alloy 6001 wheels, S&B cold air intake and air horn,
Magna Flow 5" turbo back exhaust, Mads Electronics Smarty, Edge Juice w/Attitude,
Devils Own Water Meth, BD Super B Special Turbo, BD Boost Fooler, Trans and Converter by GOEREND , Home made traction bars

well ive decided that im not even going to waste my time with the dealer ive just been saving my money for either a goerends or an ats...the dealer would just slap a stock dodge tranny back in and id have the same problem a little ways down the road..thanks for all the feed back guys it really helps.