this truck is a 2001 with 115k miles. the guy wants 14,000. has a brand new paint job, no rust at all anywhere. tan leather interior. 6 speed manual. no accidents, 2 owner truck. very nice shape. the guy wants 14k for it. the other ones ive found are pretty expensive but havent really looked much into 2nd gens

what are the common problems and everything needed to check for when i go to look at this truck wednesday? im very interested, but just dont know what im looking for. any advice and help is greatly appreciated! this is a good deal to pass up!!

need to gather as much advice as possible before wednesday

 

ball joints tie rod ends and trac bar

 

are these engines more or less reliable than others? are these VP44 pumps reliable? what should i check on the engine?

 

Those trucks can be just as reliable as a 12 Valve and believe it or not the VP44 is reliable to aslong as you keep good fuel pressure to it, the lift pump is what kills the VP44. Try to see if you can do a fuel pressure test, you can bump the starter and see if the lift pump kicks on but it can work but not supply the right fuel pressure. What to check for is see about the front end if its tight, look for oil leaks on the front of the engines, side, oilpan, and rear main. check out your pinion seals, and ujoints. All cummins can be as reliable and the generation before just takes know how, pull the oil cap off and see if there is any excessive blow by. That price sounds about right, but if he has a loose front end you are gonna want to knock close to a grand off. My friend paid 12500 for a truck with 124K and a five speed and a Bradford Flat bed, and my buddy got a 07' 6.7L Cummins with also 125K for 14K but has no power anything and is a fleet truck. But I like my 24Valve Cummins, I have 235K on mine and just replaced my injectors, wheel bearings. Front end got rebuilt at 180K, and new IP at 160K because of lack of fuel pressure, if you grease up you front end every oil change it should last you a good long while, the average driver never thinks to grease up his truck every now and then.

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The VP44 is as reliable as any injection pump what kills them is the lack of fuel pressure from the lift pump.

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Mine has been as reliable if not more than any of my friends 12 Valves or its just the fact I make sure I tuck her in a night when its cold, But what to check for is a loose front end, oil leaks from the front cover, side cover on the drive side, rear main. Pinon seals, ujoints. The 24 Valve cummins was redesigned for longivety and emissions, the head has the injector positoned in the center of the engine to prevent cylinder wear that 12 V can cause since the injectors are postioned on the side and at an angle. Take the oil cap off and check for excessive blow by once shes warm, check coolant. When you get it get a fuel pressur guage mounted to you can monitor the life of the injection pump because a 150 Dollar guage can save you well over a 1000 bucks if you lift pump dies.

 

thanks for all the info! the truck has a fuel pressure guage on it so can i check the fuel pressure test without knocking the starter? what should fuel pressure be at?

also ive never checked for blow-by before. do i take the cap off with it running and then what?

thanks for all the info guys!! ive been studying up on 3rd gen commonrails for a month now.. didnt think id find a good looking 2nd gen! got some work to do before wednesday

 

ya once shes warm take the cap off, fuel pressure should be 15-20 PSI at idle, and now lower than 5 psi at WOT(Wide open throttle) If its low it can be the fuel filter depending on where he mounted the pressure guage to. With the fuel guage just start the truck as see where it sits. I like common rails but there kinda of a butt to get to injectors and do valve lash, but they are not nearly as bad as FORD no offense.

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sorry for the double post, my computer didnt show the first post so i did another damn computers...

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Oh you have two threads

 

when i take the cap off what am i looking for?

no offense at all taken. our 7.3 on the farm was a dream. bought this 6.0 thinking it would last forever also and regret every minute of it.. why do you think im going to a cummins?

the POS 6.0 is gonna sit in my yard with a for sale sign the minute i get back from picking up the cummins!

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no problem. yea i realized that i probly needed to put it in potential

im confused also

 

Just smoke its goona look like steam your gonna have a little maybe or none at all that truck hasnt even been broken in. But if its steamin outta there then you got problems.. We have a six oh no on our ranch, wish it would just catch on fire and be done with it, thing has no power, once its movin it does ok, but its been problem, after problem after problem, did I mention Problem?? Granted they can be "Good Truck" but I dont want to drop 5K into a truck that cost 50K when we bought it new in 05' And we havnt gone a two months all year without a CEL..

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Plus these trucks are easy to work on and access, only thing Is brakes are a but more of a PITA, because the rotor is fastend by studs thru the hub assembly, but I can pull both hubs off within an hour and start putting them back on...

 

ive had about 7000 worth of repairs in just under 2 years....

if it has blow-by should i just pass it up? i have time to wait for the perfect truck.

how can i tell if this truck has the 53 block? if it does i dont even want to waste my time driving the hour drive to look at it

 

Is gonne be under the powersteering pump near the oulpan gasket, you gonna have blow by every vehicle does, but if its smoking likes there a fire in there pass it up. and only 10 percent of the 53 blocks failed, so even with the 53 block you will proably be ok. I have a 51 One block the Mexican Big Boy... I doubt that the truck will have any excessive blow by, and from the sounds of it they guys has taken care of it and fixed the weaknesses of the cummins, I feel your pain weve put 5K into it just this year and the fuel milage my god!!!! 11 mpg? I like my 19-22mpg I get... Plus injectors dont cost 300 a piece..

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I have two friends with the 53 Block one has 172K another 150K and no problems, what causes them to crack is overheating, pulling before your warm, and not enough cool down time after towing...