the brakes seem to be fine, and the fluid is full. the leak is around the rim and caliper, maybe its coming from the axel. any suggestions on what to do to fix this 100 percent.
my truck is a f350 7.3 one ton
any help would be appreciated.

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also, what type of differencial fluid do you recomend or know to use. thanks

 

take the tire off and remove the caliper mounting bracket. then remove the brake rotor, if you see gear oil seeping out around the outer axle assembly, then your axle seal is bad. remove the bolts retaining your axle, remove axle. remove hub assembly retaining nut (4 prong socket you can get at autozone, advanced, or o'reilys), remove nut. slide outer hub assembly off. remove outer axle seal and re-assemble.

If it is your caliper boot leaking around the piston, when you remove the caliper you will see brake fluid leaking around the inside of the caliper. but you say it's not loosing fluid so i do not think this is your case. im leaning towards axle seals (do both at the same time)

 

four prong socket, do you know what size , or is it one size fits all. i appreciate you help man, alot.

 

I'm not sure what size it is, it's a Ford 10.25 rear end specific tool. let me find it here and ill post a link.

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man I cannot find one.... Just go to your local Autozone or Advanced Auto or wherever and ask for the socket for your ford 10.25 rear end they'll probably have it on the shelf

 

i appreciate your help and knowledge. i found it.

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ive always had people fix my stuff, but now, im trying to learn how to do things. somethings may seem easy to other guys , but for me im just learning. ive had no interest in fixing things before, but now im actually starting to enjoy trying. i have a mechanic for my landscaping company trucks, so im just used to dropping them off. your help and your time is much appreciated. no one else commented, must be to small for the big boys!

 

If you got a few miles on her, may as well change the bearings. It'll add time and some expense to the project, but it'll be worth it.

 

I also forgot to throw this in; when you're going after that seal and you get it out, get new seals and bearings! I know this may seem like common sense but A LOT of people take our advice word for word and things don't work out too well...

But I hear ya, and no problem. Re-post and let us know how you make out!

(As for being "too small for the big boys", this wasn't exactly the kind of topic you'd post in a "diesel in distress-Support Ticket". Quite a few people looked at it and probably passed because this is a easy fix haha).

 

yeah, im sure its minor to most everyone, im kinda new to fixing trucks. we gott her done though, all fixed, new bearings, etc. now time for an allignment!! what next right?

 

STOP! You're getting just a front end alignment right? because changing bearings in your rear end doesnt do anything for your rear alignment. There's no adjustment for it other than changing leaf spring mounts (stuff that's not supposed to be done).

The only time you'll ever need an alignment is if you change front ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link, or anything in the steering area. Your only adjustment for your front end during an alignment is toe. Caster (axial movement forward and back while steering) and camber (how much the tire is angled in or out in relevance to vertical parrallelism) can only be changed with an aftermarket "camber kit" (which you most likely do not have). There is no "factory" adjustment for caster and camber!

 

Changing wheel bearings won't alter alignment, but the alignment can change with time and miles. Not to mention, they weren't always set correctly at the factory. Check your suspension for worn or damaged components, they'll need to be replaced before you can get an accurate alignment. Make sure to check the caster and camber, as well as the rear axle tracking, when you get your vehicle aligned, if those are incorrect it will handle poorly and wear out tires more quickly.