#30 30 Amp fuse blowing
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#30 30 Amp fuse blowing
Well, the dreading problem attacked my truck. And as with many, it was the fuel heater in the fuel bowl shorted out. A week after replacing the fuel pump (and relay for good measure) the truck became sluggish to start, then wouldn't fire at all unless it had been plugged in for a few hours. Then the fireworks of blowing the #30 fuse started. 15 fuses, 30+ hours of chasing wires and checking components/continuity and it is fixed. After finding the problem, I removed the filter to see what the issue really was. The connections had broken and grounded to the sides. Well, not a repair I'm willing to tackle right now so I'm leaving it unplugged but the truck runs fine without it. The fuel here in IA is treated during winter and I run Diesel Service as well, so no worries. Hopefully anyone with the same issue will find this helpful.
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carlos valente (11-29-2013)
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The cost can range from a few hundred bucks to over a grand, it all depends on how you do it and the components you choose. I'm wanting to get a pre-filter, pump, filter, and the regulated return with pressure gauge, so I'm looking to spend $700-900 for what I want. I would say it's worth it due to the fact it'll help keep a steady supply of fuel to the injectors furthest from the fuel inlet, but I'm sure many others will debate it's worth. Just like the KCM Stainless Steel HPOP Crossover (HPX) line from Sinister that balances the HPOP system and "help's quiet" split shots, I put one on when I installed single shots. I try to look at all benefits when I consider doing mods. Like with the HPX line, there's no added power and it won't quiet the noise of single-shots, but at $64 and 10 minutes labor, smoothing out the ICP is worth it to me.
Last edited by OceanDiesel; 12-03-2010 at 08:53 AM.