wish I had my laptop back...

the air pressure needs to go on the brass valve on the back top of the turbo. It has nothing to do with the valve on the bottom of the turbo, that one is run off of oil pressure. Take your air nozzle and blow into the nipple where the red line should have been connected. It will move.

Garrett 38r is the only drop in turbo that fits our trucks, I would not call it the best, but thats my opinion.

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01 F-250 SC,175k,16gauges,AFE-2,Modded H2e,6.0 IC,Hybrids,Water inj,Swamp tuned,Studs,Forged rods,910 springs,4"dual's,Aero,6" tip's,100 axl tank,4" lift,37" TOYO MT's... With TN BB and old set up...467hp-1066tq

Joe-AKA Gauge whore
Auto Enginuity

That's where I put the pressure and got nothing. What would you call the best and what kind of mods need to be done to make it work?

If your going to stay with the mods you have, a 38r will be fine.

I would not go and drop 1700 on a turbo right now without pulling it and checking it out completely.

I would like to know who you talked to. Why would someone say we would try to sell you stuff you don't need. We would not be around for 30 plus years if that were the case. We will be happy to help you out if you need. We can rebuild your turbo for you if necessary and sell you any parts you want to do it yourself. Many times it is better to just have the work done by people like us who specialize in these trucks.

Mark Huckstorf

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"Never Enough" 2003 Chevy 2500 LT, CC-SB, TTS tuning, pistons, rods, cam, Diesel Performance Research heads, ATS trans, turbo, twin CP3 kit, Rick’s headers, Labonte water meth, FASS, SoCal balancer, ...

2005 Dodge 3500, CC-SB, 5” T-304 Silverline, Spek Gauges, Bully Dog PMT, Leveling Kit, upgraded tunes. Blizzard plow for the white stuff.

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