I just bought a 1997 e450 superduty 32ft rv and plan on towing with it at 25k gross weight. I have added gauges, 02 van turbo, bellowed up pipes, 3 in intakes, 4 inch exhaust, e-fuel and bowl delete, and 120v idm.

1)I am trying to decide between a ww2 or rr to help get my bottom back from the bigger turbo swap. I have read that the WW2 was better than the rr6/6 in the van turbo in the lower rpms spool up but haven't seen anything bout the rr4/4...other than: Per Clay the 4/4 is a smidge quieter and gives a smidge more boost vs 6/6". How much do the wheels weigh? I've seen ww2 is 5.5027 oz or 13% lighter than oem.

2)I don't want to do the 08+ front clip so I am planning an a2w intercooler to combat compressor heat but haven't found a big enough heat exchanger yet that makes me happy, so I probably will end up with 2 in series maybe 3. I would like one to be the size of the radiator but only 1 inch thick, but I think I might be dreaming on that one. any sources other than frozenboost/siliconeintakes?

3)I AM swapping my edge ez/banks trans command(both previous owner) for a ts 6 pos chip or a dp product? with live tunes as soon as assembled. I believe dp has a more capable chip than ts but I would be limited to the one tuner which I don't like. Who all sells the ts with lifetime reburns that are worth it? I am leaning towards php. My dad keeps pushing swamps. After talking on another forum, my current choice is the power hungry hydra!

4)I'm pretty sure I have ab injectors (from my research and ill pull a valve cover soon to confirm). I am thinking about swapping to ad's but concerned about egt's. Ad's seem to be the easiest injectors to get ahold of from a salvage yard or auto parts store if I had one fail on the road, which is why I wanna stay stock type sticks. I've also read stock nozzles are better for towing due to better atomization.

5)This brings me to med/big oil. I want as much down low as possible to get the rigs weight going. Is there such a thing as too much hpop for this combo? I dont see anybody talking about doubles on stock injectors other than loping/wandering idle and ipr duty cycle issues with 2 iprs so I think that is out. Did the overdrive ever get an ok for daily driving? srp1.1 have had some catastrophic failures which leaves terminator my first choice as of now.

6)In the spring I am considering a sd pcm wiring 4r100 swap when I do a 4x4 conversion.
A)what is the best model to get the pcm from?
B)Are there other supply sources besides ujointoffroad.com for the 4x4 brackets etc.?

Is there any positive suggestions or anything missing from my list that will help with getting the weight rolling and keep egts in check?

 

3)I am set on the hydra after some more research.

4)ab's to ad's are only 5 cc more fuel so I am instead considering ac's-160/0 or even 160/30. Are single shots that much louder?

 

i dont know a ton about the vans but the hydra is the best chip you can run.

you will be much happier with ACs or the 160/30s over the ADs.

with the ACs or 160/30s you should be able to get by with a stock hpop. you can upgrade it but it shouldnt be required.

as far as a intercooler, im not sure if you can fit an air to air but thats what i would run if you have the room.

i wouldnt mess with PCM, they would take a ton of rewiring and things to get it to run and it just isnt worth all that extra work

 

I've got a t500 in the works already...

a2a will only fit if I swap the 08+ doghouse on for 6 more inches of clearance

I specialize in automatic transmissions, diesels, and wiring. The things most mechanics shy away from! Not scared at all of re-pinning harnesses...and I NEED things to keep me busy

 

sounds like you getting all under control

 

Thanks joebob3093

I definitely want more high pressure oil down low rpm for better fuel atomization. I'm not set on the t500 and could easily hand it off and get a srp1.1 or what else is currently in the ranks with those two? od seems to be a no-go for dd.

Again I've read stock nozzles also help with better fuel atomization but I feel the 160's probably need the 30% nozzles to get the increased amount of fuel out in the same delivery time. I've been told else where to go with the 160/30's and tune control egt's

p.s. I have several threads on different sites trying to get the most input and ideas possible. I like when my understanding of things are challenged and I enjoy learning a lot. I have a picture in my head of what I am looking for and am trying to work out a few last details

 

i love my terminator dual pumps but i have heard joey hasn't been able to work on his pumps like he used to so his turn around times are slow. you couldn't pay me to run an spr 1.1, i have never heard anything good about them. there are a few other pumps that have came out recently but i am not really up on them to much.

160/0 are fine but to get them most out of them i would do a 30% nozzle. you shouldn't have any problems with atomization with them.

 

joebob3093, did you Run the te duals on small injectors?

I am back to considering BO and ad's vs t500 and 160/30's.
I have 2 quotes from joey in 2007"What I noticed in his original post, is that he is looking for towing power, which is torque. That's one of the biggest advantages of Big Oil(anybodys system)." IIRC this was about BO and ad's vs 17* and ac's for towing.
and the second quote is "3000 psi is not enough pressure for any injector currently on the market"
and another unknown quote "more hpop volume results in better throttle response, better atomization, and if you can control your right foot, better fuel mileage."
This makes sense to me. BO helps increase the efficiency of the burn by increasing available high pressure oil across the rpm range, especially lower rpms where I feel it would benefit me more. The increased pressures result in better fuel injection pressures resulting in better fuel atomization resulting in a better burn and more towing power unleashed. where my understanding is 160's need 30% nozzles to get the fuel out in the same amount of time-this would lead to less fuel atomization and less fuel burn resulting in smoke and worse mpg's for the same amount of towing power. What I mean by towing power is useable power climbing an extended steep grade at 25,000 pounds.


I got the rr2-4/4 wheel today and it weighs 3.526 ounces or 101.06 grams. That's almost 2 ounces lighter than the ww2-5/5 which I've seen weighs 5.5027 ounces. That seems a lot to me since they are both billet!

 

I ran a modded 17 with ADs and 200/0s. I didn't get the dual pumps till I stepped up to 300/100s. Personally in a daily driver i would go with an upgraded pump and 160/30s. The big oil options can be a pain to tune and give more areas for issues

 

I have a t500 in the works. will install the riffraff billet wheel when I do the hpop.

I just need to make a couple measurements for the w2a intercooler and heat exchangers available mounting areas.

I already have the meziere 20 gpm water pump and 1 gauge with both pre and post ic temp sensors to watch efficiency
I do need to get this radiator cap and fill point in the heater hose at the highest point in the system (Remote Radiator Filler Cap)

I plan on running two(maybe 3) heat ex-changers in series,
1st one in front of radiator (or 2 if the radiator core is over 25 inches tall?)
type 100 12x24x1 thick(Air to Water Radiator)
2nd one in the bumper either
type 118 27x7x2 thick(Air to Water Radiator) or a
type 101 27x7x3.5 thick(Air to Water Heat Exchanger).
I've read on a couple of forums that the type 118 was more efficient than the type 101-as the air heats up as it passes front to back thru the he and in 2 inches,the air is already is heated and not cooling the rest of the 3.5 inches as efficently.... resulting in inconsistent internal liquid temps resulting in higher outlet temps...

several people have run this w2a ic:
type 15(Water to Air Intercoolers)
I'm guessing for clearance around the ac compressor, but I would prefer to run
type 5(Water to Air Intercoolers)
for a more direct hot side air path(shorter hot side pipe)

cxracing and ebay both have more options but my understanding is frozenboost/siliconeintakes have better fin per inch counts for water to air...


and then buy a hydra and custom tunes and re-evaluate the injector choice...