Hi guys, new to the site. I've looked around but throwing the word out. My turbo has shaft play like a **** and I need a cheap used stock turbo till I can upgrade or a idk anything that's not gonna break the bank. I'm not gona hot rod the truck but want a strong reliable running engine. Any suggestions or anyone know of a turbo for sale that's will get me by? Struggling to find anything under 800 bucks. Just want to make sure I'm not wasting money. The turbine is hitting the housing intermittently and want to get that turbo out ASAP. Been eyeballing the D66 or trying to do a late 99 conversion on the cheap but struggling to find what i need. Please help!!!!

 

If the shaft bearings are still good. I would upgrade to this BD-Power Billet Compressor Wheel & Waste Gate Combo Kit 1047002 This upgrade is the wheel and the waste gate. I would also spend a little upgrade the housing, seen hear Garrett GTP38R Turbine Housing Upgrade. These are very good upgrades on a good budget. If you are looking for a direct replacement. Look on your local classified adds under car parts. I have found some around Utah for around 800.00.

Hear is a complete kit. $700.00 bucks. Wheel, waste gate, and housing. http://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-power...it1047003.aspx
Hope this helps a bit.

Also while you are near the turbo. There is a Exhaust back pressure valve on the turbo. Run a wire from one of the wires to a switch. Then you have control of that valve for a cheap engine brake.

 

Awesome thanks! ..... Now about this wire to switch deal for a cheap exhaust brake. What wire you talking about? Sorry I'm a visual learner

 

There is a solid black wire and a colored wire. The colored wire is the one you want to apply power wire from switch.

Hear is a link to a you tube for a simple hook up.
on mine. The color was yellow/red combo. I just spliced into that wire and ran that to a switch, then from the switch to a fuse then to the keyed power. You can also wire into the brake pedal. So when you apply brakes it will activate the valve.

I have totally enjoyed having this mod done. I work maintenance. Pulling allot of weight around. It works wonders for me. When I did mine. I pulled the intake off the turbo (gave me some room to work) and cleaned the inside of the intake, and I also ran a light sand drum off my dremal tool. I just smoothed out. The stock intake are a bit rough. This was not very hard to take off. 3 hose clamps. One on each intake tube, then one of the turbo itself.

Another great mod. I went to the part store and picked up a spectra air filter, and a 3" 90 plastic elbow. I installed the elbow of the stock tube that goes into the turbo. I then installed the air filter on the elbow. I fiddled with it till I liked the way it sat. Then snugged up the clamps. With the the setup like this. The turbo spools quicker.

This is a similar filter to what I used. K&N Engineering RX3800 - Air Filter | O'Reilly Auto Parts.

Also. While you are taking off the intake. There is a crankcase breather that goes into the intake tube before the turbo. If you change the intake system. It would also be a good mod to run a hose from the crankcase to the rear of the truck. This mod eliminates oil from collecting in the intake system and fouling it up. As long as YOU DO NOT CAP OR BLOCK OFF THIS CRANKCASE BREATHER. It WILL over pressurize the engine and the gaskets will leak badly.

All of this work does make the but dyno feel the difference. I also noticed a mph gain of 4.

 

Awesome thanks for the help! Yea I have a 6637 filter connected to a 4" pc of PVC from Lowes and the CCV kit from riffraff. When I put the CCV kit on and had all the intake tubes off I thought it was a good time to check the turbo play and now I'm here :/ what's everyone's take in the Van turbos with the 1.15 A/R exhaust housing? Found one really cheap off fleabay. So far everything I've read makes me feel like it would be perfect cause I over boost no matter where I have my chip set at after I put my 5" full exhaust on.