Ok i just got done rebuilding my e4od, put red eagle frictions,and kolene steels,new solenoid pack,stage 3 torque converter, and also a banks trans comander on. everything was seeming fine but now after i drive about 40 miles it acts like it won't go into 2nd gear and sometimes it bucks and surges and also acts like it don't know what gear to go in. I have already put about 1k miles on it. All of these problems started after i replaced my pcm back in august. On my third transmision. I'm starting to think it is my pcm that i bought from auto computer exchange. Any ideas?

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also have already replaced tps and speed sensor and cmp.

 

Have you tried bypassing the Transcommand?

 

yah iv tried everything but a new computer strait through ford and a throttle pedal assy.

 

I have found out what the problem is and thought I would share it with you. I stopped and bought a trans cooler with a thermal contolled fan. when installing it i saw that there were two additional coolers so I took them off and also disconnected the cooler lines going to the radiator and am using just the one that i bought with the fan it's been two days and it is shifting like a king. No more problems out of tranny

 

Thank you for posting this last post. I think it is good for us to conclude our threads this way.

 

I agree. Providing the resolution to the original problem is always helpful and very much appreciated.

What cooler/fan model did you buy? I've been wanting to add a cooler with a fan to my rig. I tow a 24' travel trailer and want a little extra insurance when driving through the hills.

 

Transmission Cooling: You must have a transmission cooler in your radiator regardless of what someone has told you for the transmission to last. Auxiliary coolers are just that, in addition to. Water cools 32 times better (faster) than air always, period. The transmission fluid comes directly from the torque converter at a much higher temperature than the water in your radiator and is cooled to the water temperature fast. Then it goes to the auxiliary cooler to be cooled far below the water temperature. If you don't need a cooler in your radiator why does GM spend all that money doing so? If you wanted to cool a red hot piece of steel fast would you stick it in water or air, see the point. For the best cooling you need both water and air cooling for the transmission to be cooler than the motor.



At one point in time, I had the tranny disconnected from the cooler in the radiator but then I came across this and thought about it. It makes just sense. Right now, my line goes to the radiator, out to the TruCool 40k GVW cooler http://www.dieselsite.com/ProductImages/trucool4739.gif, out to a finned aluminum cooler like this 12" SILVER ALUMINUM FINNED TRANSMISSION COOLER SINGLE - eBay (item 230567425114 end time Jan-02-11 21:27:43 PST), out to the remote filter under the hood http://www.dieselsite.com/ProductImages/tfikweb.gif, and then back to the transmission. I also have a flush valve on the return line http://www.dieselsite.com/ProductImages/flushvalve.gif which I use yearly. I also have an aluminum extra capacity pan on which also helps. I plow so I want the ATF as cool as possible. This works very well for me as I made a stock E4OD last 91k miles before I got the MonsterBox to put on with my rebuilt motor.