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Ford Powerstroke 03-07 6.0L Discussion of 6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels
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  #1  
Old 01-20-2012, 11:58 AM
Captainharley6.0's Avatar
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Default Water pumps!!

I am replacing wzter pump and thermostat never been done snd 240,000km's on it! Figure its time , I have early make 2004 started cakling around snd im finding orices from 150$ to 600$ so im confused!
Napa 600$
Ford oem 275-300 depends on model
Ebay and rock auto 150$$
If anybody can shed some light on this it would be great one thing I do know is there is no way im buying a 600$ water pump
Thanks
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Captainharley6.0's Sig:2004 orange&black Ford Harley Davidson edition
4inch turbo back exhaust, ARP's, Sinister EGR delete
37" procomp extreme AT's
4" lift, skyjacker shocks
Annoying 6.0 motor and nearly empty savings account!
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  #2  
Old 01-20-2012, 01:13 PM
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I have 250k miles on my original, factory belt too, I'm not sure I would change mine until started having problems.

bobfbigman's Sig:O4 f350 crewcab SRW shortbed, Edge juice with attitude,Banks intercooler,Magnaflow 5" exhaust,CFM intake, Injen air intake, Amsoil bypass system, EGr went bybye,stock tire size,250k and still kickin, only parts replaced have been ICP and ball joints,drag link.....
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  #3  
Old 01-20-2012, 01:53 PM
Mdub707's Avatar
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The waterpumps suck in these. The plastic impellers crack and break and hardly push any coolant. Typically before 100k miles.

What's the build date on your 04?

3C3Z-8501-A is for PMP ASY-WTR - 2002.5 to 7/18/2004
4C3Z-8501-AC is for PMP ASY-WTR - 7/19/2004 and up

Early one's are a 90mm impeller later one's are 100mm.

OEM are $160 or so from Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Bulletproof diesel also makes one now with a billet aluminum impeller blades... they're like $220

[ ] Bullet Proof Diesel Water Pump, Ford 6.0L Diesel

Click the image to open in full size.

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  #4  
Old 01-20-2012, 02:10 PM
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My god I hate typing from my android spelling sucks *** miss my iphone! I hope I find a hapoy medium for my water pump just had headstuds doneand full egr delete still blowing cold air at idle, I guess weak waterpump can cause this as impellers wear out, and thermostats are only 25$ time to do and im gonna clean the heater core with CLR

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  #5  
Old 01-20-2012, 02:32 PM
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have you checked to make sure the heater valve is opening, trace the heater hose lines and there should be a valve in line that controls flow to the heater core, if your water pump was that bad you would be overheating no matter how cold it was out.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

It sits right on top of the passenger side valve cover between the oil fill spout and the turbo, it will have a vacumm line going to it,make sure it is pulling in or you won't get any heat.

Last edited by bobfbigman; 01-20-2012 at 02:32 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  #6  
Old 01-20-2012, 04:11 PM
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Thanks guys for the info! Gonna flush core CLR and check hoses valves like u said, then if needed that bullet proof looks like the deal ! My ford dealer is 300$ and im early 04 will have to check door or vin, blowing cold at idle no good in winter, temp gauge is solid and truck runs great

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  #7  
Old 01-20-2012, 05:35 PM
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Yeah mine does the same thing, but I KNOW mine is headgaskets.

If you need Ford stuff just order from Tousley there, they'll ship to you and still be cheaper than your local dealer.
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  #8  
Old 01-20-2012, 05:57 PM
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Mine could b head gaskets u never know....but on other hand ive seen peopke jump to conclusions always gaskets!!! Until a buddy had his cab off at dealer many thousands later still same problem because the basics were skipped if egr water pump thermostats and hoses ok guess what? $$$$$

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  #9  
Old 01-20-2012, 06:18 PM
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Is is possible to have "weak" water pump that there is no temp fluxuation on gauge but not enough pressure to push coolant thru core causing no heat at idle then warm when u rev it???

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  #10  
Old 01-20-2012, 10:03 PM
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weak tensioner / loose belt can cause it.

so can eroded impellor or front cover.
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