Basically the glow plugs are there to pre-heat the air in the cylinders. Without heat, we can't burn our fuel, we rely on those glow plugs to introduce heat to an otherwise cold motor. Without the heat, the fuel doesn't burn. If you have some glow plugs getting weak, you're not getting the heat needed to burn the fuel and what happens is it gets partially burnt, or barely burnt at all and sometimes it will just burn in the exhaust manifold, and we see all this white smoke coming out. If you were to go back there when it was smoking and smell it, it will probably smell a lot like raw fuel and burn your eyes a little. It's just not getting a complete burn. The FICM could also be causing this, a weak FICM will just not allow the injectors to push and atomize the fuel the way it was designed to.

Test the FICM and report back here. You will also want to have the batteries load tested if you're suspect of the FICM too.

 

I just realized the write-up never really said which screw you 7-pin guys need to be testing, so I added that in, it's in the red section.

 

Veh: 06 F350 Super Duty 6.0 PSD 4x4 Automatic 158,000 miles - NAPA Gold oil filter and Rotella T oil - K&N Air system - other then that totally stock

Me: V=E=R=Y limited knowledge when it comes to diesels

Problem: On cold mornings it won't start - can crank the heck out of it and it will produce the white smoke. If it starts on cold mornings it runs VERY rough until it has warmed up and sounds like the piston are going to come through the block. Under acceleration is "breaks up"

If plugged in it will start fine but will run with hesitation until it warms up and then runs like a champ.

From the above quote it sounds like glow plug problems. I believe the "controller" for the glow plugs/injectors is on the right (passenger) valve cover and the FICM is on the left. How do I test the glow plug "controller"?

Other thoughts of what may be causing the problem - any and all help is appreciated - thanks in advance for replies

 

When's the last time you did an oil change? Put a motorcraft oil filter back in it first thing. The wrong oil filters on these will actually prohibit flow, and as we know the injectors on the 6.0 are fired by high pressure oil... you have poor oil flow you will have a poor running truck. Change that filter first. Then test the FICM anyways. You may have more than one issue going on here.

Does that oil filter have it's own cap too?

 

hhh

 

I have a 2005 f450 that I am kind of having the same problem I dont have to plug it up to start it but it turns over forever. When your turning it over it starts to turn over faster and faster then it will finally fire up. Then it runs really rough until it heats up to running temperature. Someone told be that the fuel pump could be losing pressure when it siting so they told me to cycle the key several times with like 10 second intervals before trying to start. They said this would help push more fuel to the engine before trying to start. This has helped a little but I want to fix it. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

Go back to the Ford cap and Motorcraft/international/fram oil filter (they're all the same in this case, and this is the ONLY case you'll ever see me recommend a Fram oil filter as well).

I borrowed some blurps from another forum on testing glow plugs and the module:

Set your DVOM to OHMS. Touch the red lead of your DVOM to the end of the glow plug where the electrical connector plugs into (not the end that sits inside the combustion chamber), and touch the black lead to the threaded part of the glow plug. You should obtain a reading of between 0.5 to 2.0 ohms on a "good" glow plug. Any higher than that, replace it. Also plan on replacing the glow plug harnesses too, since removal of them pretty much mandates replacement.

Okay, then the next step is to unplug the black connector plug (not the green one) from the glow plug controller on top of the passenger side valve cover. Look for a pink with light green stripe coloured wire in that connector. Use your DVOM with the red lead touching that cavity and the black lead touching your passenger side battery negative terminal. If you are still getting readings within 0.5 to 2.0 ohms, replace the GPCM.

I have had more than my share of trucks flagging specific cylinder/circuit(s) faulty that ended up needing new GPCMs. If you are in doubt, "borrow" a known good GPCM from another truck, and re-run a self-test. By ohming out the circuit directly from the GPCM to the battery, you have eliminated the wiring from the GPCM all the way to the glow plug, leaving the GPCM the only possible component left to set the DTC.

Have your batteries load tested first. Then test your FICM.

I doubt it's the fuel pump, but it never hurts to check fuel PSI. I would do it while driving though. Get a mechanical gauge, tap into the fuel filter housing on the motor, run it up under the hood to the windshield and pin it down with a windshield wiper, then drive and watch it. Shouldn't drop lower than 50psi at any time.

 

ok I checked the FICM and it stays above 48volts the whole time. I havent checked the fuel pump yet i got a guage ordered. It didnt seem like it wanted to start until we pushed the gas pedal though then it fired right up.

 

Are you getting smoke out the exhaust when you're cranking it?

 

not really any smoke while im cranking on it but when it fires it puts out a pretty of black smoke and just a little white. Now when this all first started it only done this when i left the truck parked with the front end parked uphill but now it doesnt matter, and also i drove it the other day and stopped at lowes and went in for like 15 min and came back out and it done it then so it doesnt have to be cold for it to do it now. Seem to be getting worse. I have a bully dog tripple dog programmer on it if that matters.