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Ford Powerstroke 03-07 6.0L Discussion of 6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels
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  #1  
Old 05-28-2011, 03:20 PM
FRIDAY88's Avatar
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Default Blowin o rings off injectors on 6.0

we just put new heads on 05 p stroke runs edge j/w a platinum and in two weeks we have put 5 injectors in it looks like its getting blowby the injectors there is soot half way up the stick and o rings are toasted im tryin to talk owner into SCT with customs to reduce cylinder presure any other ideas

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  #2  
Old 05-30-2011, 11:31 AM
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How are these injectors getting torqued down into the heads? Are new o-rings being used each time?

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Old 05-30-2011, 05:06 PM
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Everythings tourqed to book spec I think edge is to much timing
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  #4  
Old 05-31-2011, 07:12 AM
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Timing Shmiming, headgaskets should be popping before you're blowing o-rings out. I know a lot of guys find they loosen up and I've read that quite a bit of guys were torqueing them a little more than factory specs. Maybe try doing some searching on it. Do you recall what the spec was? I know I've read of guys torqueing them to spec and having them loosen up a little in short time. I'd imagine if they were loose, the o-ring would blow really easy.
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  #5  
Old 06-05-2011, 09:48 PM
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Im new to the site, I work on 6.0s 6.4s primarily on a daily basis in a dealership. Ive seen trucks with insane chips stacks straight pipes every upgrade available ive installed it all from egr delete kits to larger turbos to head studs and ran into every issue you can possibly think of stock or modified. and injectors pop either the copper crush washer or the O ring gaskets, when i see either of those failures, i automatically change the injector cups. and dont have any issues following the new injector cups, ive made my own tool to remove the back 4 cyls and to install them as well without having to remove the heads or the evap/heater core box.
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  #6  
Old 06-05-2011, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by PowerstrokeTech87 View Post
ive made my own tool to remove the back 4 cyls and to install them as well without having to remove the heads or the evap/heater core box.
love to see a picture of that tool
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  #7  
Old 06-05-2011, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Rastus View Post
love to see a picture of that tool
theyre easy to make, forgot what sized round stock i used, pretty much used a friends die from a machine shop to put threads in the round stock, got the bottoming tap from MSC supplies, perfect length welded a nut to the top of it, use a flex head 19mm ratcheting wrench to turn it while pushing down, cut the threads in the cup, back out, use my air vac with a piece of hose from a 6.4 degas bottle to suck metal out of, threaded round stock also with a nut welded to the top and use a 8 inch long mac striking pry bar and a hammer and pound out the cup (the threaded round stock is also bent at an angle to help) cut a detroit injector brush down to size to clean the old thread locker out of cup port, then use a piece of round stock that fits into the cup to slam it in with also cut to size, and drive it into the head with the inner fender wells out with a small hammer. drivers side is easier of course pass side can be done reaching up and bending your arm at just the right angle. Its much easier to use the slide hammer method with heads off. The other tool i made was a piece of left hand threaded rod and left hand bottoming tap made a bracket up that bolted into the valve cover bolt holes out of 1/4 inch thick plate steel and used a flex head ratcheting wrench until i had a grade 8 bolt snap and had to do the 5.4 manifold trick to get it out with (welding a nut and backing it out of the aluminum)
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