SO I WAS HOPING I COULD GET SOME ADVISE ON HERE ABOUT A TRUCK IM WORKING ON.. 6.0 POWERSTROKE 2005.. EGR DELETED.. HEAD BOLT STUDS LAST YR, NEW WATER PUMP, NEW THERMOSTAT, NEW OIL COOLER, COOLANT FLUSH. NEW DEGAS CAP 20 PSI RATED. RUNNING STOCK TUNE. BANKS BIG HOSS BUNDLE.. NO CAT.. ALL NEW FACTORY INJECTORS. TRUCK WAS RUNNING BIODIESEL RAN 190'S ON COOLANT TEMP AND 197 ON OIL TEMP. RECENTLY AS THE WEATHER STARTED GETTING HOTTER IN THE 90'S TRUCK IS RUNNING HOT.. WAS HITTING 240 UNDER LOAD.. RAN BIODIESEL OUT AND RUNNING DIESEL AND RUNS HOTTER.. 220-240 NO LOAD.. CRUISING OVER 60 210.. UNDER 60 220 AND UP.. INFERED THE TOP COOLANT HOSE WAS 190'S BOTTOM HOSE WAS 140'S. IM GETTING TIRED OF THROWING PARTS AT THE TRUCK AND ITS STILL RUNNING HOT.. I ALSO HOOKED UP PSI GUAGE TO COOLANT SYSTEM AND CRUISING ITS 10PSI AND UNDER.. UNDER LOAD I CAN HIT ALMOST 18 BUT NEVER OVER.. SO I THINK THAT RULES OUT HEAD GASKETS.. I ALSO SNIFFED THE DEGAS BOTTLE FOR HYDROCARBONS AND SHOWS 0. ANY IDEAS BEFORE I THROW IT AT THE FORD DEALER?

Check the accuracy of your gauge, and start running a temp gun over your rig. If it is not the temp gauge, it sounds like you're not flowing.

Studs or bolts? What are you reading temps with? What was done to the heads when new gaskets were put in?

Defective oil cooler out of the box is a good chance

psi guage is reading 12lbs when cruising and hits 18 if i get on it. i was told that the max i should see is 12 even under load. oil temps would be hot if oil cooler was blown they dont get over 220 even when truck is hot.. when truck is cool you can here the degas bottle bubbling like theirs a lot of air in the system. i can feel it in the brake pedal. it does it every time the truck is cold or has been sitting for a while.. (when water temp is below 160) im thinking head gaskets again..

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ford dealer replaced studs with arp upon request 6 months ago and i did everything else. im reading temps with scanner via obdII.. when the dealer did head gaskets they said heads were good and not warped..

Lets get the bolt/stud issues straight first.

Ford does and never has used studs on this motor, they use a TTY bolt (torque to yield) and are supposed to be a one time use, so if they get removed, they go in the trash.

ARP makes STUDS, to replace the bolts. A stud is better because of it's design, instead of trying to twist an entire bolt, you're just twisting the nut on top. This results in more accurate torque readings and easier assembly.

So, you had Ford put in ARP's. Yeah, my guess is headgaskets again. I went down this road already too. When Ford put my ARP's in, that was the shortest amount of time headgaskets have lasted on my truck.

Ford's spec for head flatness sucks, and they wont deck heads. If one is out, they order a new head. Sounds good right? Wrong, some of the "new" heads come in and are out of spec already. Anytime you do headgaskets on a 6.0, ARP studs should be used, and the heads should be decked/pressure checked and whatever else needs to be done. Hardened valve seats wouldn't be a bad idea.

thanks for the help.. im going with heads as well.. im having SI Valves do all my head work and im gunna pull everything myself and start over.. fresh arp studs, gaskets and see where i end up..

The key here is to make sure the heads are flat, but the shop is going to need to know the minimum thickness of the heads. You really can't take much off of these heads. I'll dig up the min thickness for you.

Use OEM Ford gaskets too. I've since learned the black onyx/VR gaskets are not the right thickness... even before they're compressed, so they're way off.