Hey guys i have a 2006 6.0 with the fallowing mods, arp studs, 4inch back exhaust, sct, 58v ficm, afe stage 2. Also the guy who built the truck said the egr was deleted, but when i go in on the sct and turn egr on i dont get a no code like most people say it throws when you do a egr delete? i have heard from people he does a homemade egr delete. So i noticed degas puke a while back. when i was pulling my 21ft duck boat, i do drive the truck hard because thats why i paid to have these things done. i run my sct on the hot tune. so i started playing with the truck to see if i could get it to do it. and at 27.9 lbs of boost it wont but 28.9 it will. 1lb makes that big of a difference, i mean i have to be in last gear and running 29lbs of boost to get it to do it. No power loss, smoke truck is running better every day. So is it a cracked head, a blown hg, am i lifting my heads?

Side note, mechanic replaced my injector orings 2 times on passenger side of my truck all within a month. one time it was 7 next it was 5, last week i replaced all of them again.. it was number 5 that went bad for a second time. the hold down bolt was loose when i pulled the injector, like hand tight... i cleaned cups and hold down bolt hole and it is still running good. so i question the quality of his work already.

 

does your coolant spell like diesel and what is your fuel pressure under a load.where do
you have the coolant filled to in the degas bottle.

 

No it doesnt smell like diesel fuel, i have it to the new cold fill line, and im not sure how to test fuel pressure under a load?

 

put a fitting in at the secondary fuel bowl lower left "allen head plug".get a piece of rubber hose fuel complient and a fitting that is barbed on one end and will except a gauge on the other.i want to say it's called brabed x female 1/4" or 3/8" npt it's brass.i think lowes or any hardware should have it.but get all this together and screw into the test port lay the hose with the gauge under the driver's side wind shield wiper so that you can see it.


the pressure under a load should not drop under 45 psi@ wot.here is a little trick and it can save you about 40 bucks or so and is the equilivant of a blue spring mod.take the cover off on the secondary fuel bowl"4 bolts".take a bb and place it at the end of the spring"cover side" put cover back on and your fuel pressure will be ar 68/70 psi at idle and a rock steady 55/60 under wot.you can also do the 6.4 banjo bolts or you can take the restrictor out of them and drill them 7/16 i think.do this will give you aroung 30 or so hp and 50 or so ft lbs tq.you will be able to tell a difference in the mid range and top end.the bb mod you will be able to tell your truck will idle a little smoother and respond a little quicker.

 

Awesome thanks man, and what would low fuel pressure have in common with the degas puke?

 

absolutely nothing but you never know about these 6.0s lmfao.but the low fuel pressure
will cause the o rings to be sucked off .this is when you have low fuel pressure and the vacum from the motor"suction" will pull the fuel in instead of the fuel pump delivering it.you will think the injector is bad and replace it but only to have it do it again in less than a 100 miles.the fuel pressure should never drop below 45 psi.but if you do the bb mod you will save say 50 bucks or so and it works just as good if not better.the sweet spot is a rock steady 62-65 the motor loves it you'll see.

as far as degas puke what coolant are you using and some people over fill.have you done the coolant pressure test.

 

Have you changed the degas tank cap? To verify a bad head gasket t in a 0 to 30 psi pressure gauge and go for a drive. You will see some pressure build as the engine heats up but you should not see it spike. Take it up a long hill and give it to it and watch the coolant pressure under high boost conditions. Did your mechanic use oem head gaskets or Victor reinz?

 

pressure test coming soon, also i have changed the deagas cap with no change and he used oem gaskets