07 F250 getting new short block
#1
07 F250 getting new short block
New here, so Hi and thanks for reading.
Anyhow, I just bought this 07 f250 1 1/2 days ago. The wife and I were out turned the truck of for some food came back, and nothing. It will not turn over and while trying to turn it over it was making a deep thumping noise. Now this morning I towed it to the dealer, their mechanic pulled out a pin that made its way into the oil pan, saying it was from a rocker or lifter (cant remember).
Some hours later they call and say they are having the truck shipped to a Ford diesel mechanic that has a short block with 107k on it (mine has 195k), sounds good right? Also they said by Wed it will be done...seems quick. All on their dime too.
So my question/s, Does this seem like a good deal? Is there anything I should be cautious of, or check out when I get the truck back?, Any sort of input would be great, Thanks.
P.S. almost forgot. 07 f250, 195k, NO mods all stock...as far as I know (only had it a bit over 24 hours), I read to drive them 6.0's hard...so I did...wonder if that helped kill it?
Anyhow, I just bought this 07 f250 1 1/2 days ago. The wife and I were out turned the truck of for some food came back, and nothing. It will not turn over and while trying to turn it over it was making a deep thumping noise. Now this morning I towed it to the dealer, their mechanic pulled out a pin that made its way into the oil pan, saying it was from a rocker or lifter (cant remember).
Some hours later they call and say they are having the truck shipped to a Ford diesel mechanic that has a short block with 107k on it (mine has 195k), sounds good right? Also they said by Wed it will be done...seems quick. All on their dime too.
So my question/s, Does this seem like a good deal? Is there anything I should be cautious of, or check out when I get the truck back?, Any sort of input would be great, Thanks.
P.S. almost forgot. 07 f250, 195k, NO mods all stock...as far as I know (only had it a bit over 24 hours), I read to drive them 6.0's hard...so I did...wonder if that helped kill it?
Last edited by KOMONER; 10-03-2014 at 08:09 PM. Reason: missed a few details
#3
Since nobody else has replied, I'll tell you what I've read about it.
The failure your describing does happen to 6.0 liter engines, but it's very rare. It happens to less than 10% of them.
Here's how it happens:
The lifters on these engines have rollers (which have needle bearings), which roll on the camshaft. Though the lifters are round, like a piston, they must not spin in the bore, otherwise the rollers cannot roll in the direction they need to. To insure the lifters do not spin in the bore, part of the lifter has a flat surface that rides against a guide plate; forcing the lifter to ride up and down but not allowing it to spin.
I believe the initial failure is due to the needle bearings wearing out. This allows the lifter to travel so far that the guide plate is no longer able to keep the lifter from spinning. Once the lifter spins, this is the beginning of a catastrophic failure. Once the lifter has spun, it's not rolling across the camshaft, but skidding across it, metal on metal. This generates a lot of heat, wear and in then end, a lot of pounding due to the slop. Eventually one or more of the needle bearings falls out and drops into the oil pan. The needle bearing(s) are then drawn up into the oil tube that leads to the oil pump, where it seizes the oil pump which starves your engine of oil pressure. Soon after oil pressure is gone, the engine itself begins to seize.
Sorry for the long dissertation, but that's what I understand about the issue.
So, if this is what happened to your engine, you don't want to spend any more money on it. It's toasted.
I'll answer a question you didn't ask. How do I prevent this from happening to my new engine? The only thing you can do to help prevent it is to maintain it well...the most important thing is to change the oil at the right interval. This seems to be 5,000 miles or less. The manual mentions running the oil for as long as 7500. However, I can tell you from experience, you don't want to go beyond 5,000 miles between changes.
I went 7,500 for the first 60,000 miles on mine, which I bought new in 2006. I thought I could do this if I ran full synthetic oil. I stopped running the oil for 7,500 miles because I started experiencing fuel injector issues at 50,000 miles. The truck now has 116,000 miles on it and it runs better than the day I bought it. I run AR9100 every oil change and Stanadyne Performance Formula in the fuel.
The AR9100 will eliminate sludge build-up in the lifters, which could be a contributing factor to the failure. It also reduces friction dramatically, which should help prevent the needle bearings from wearing.
The failure your describing does happen to 6.0 liter engines, but it's very rare. It happens to less than 10% of them.
Here's how it happens:
The lifters on these engines have rollers (which have needle bearings), which roll on the camshaft. Though the lifters are round, like a piston, they must not spin in the bore, otherwise the rollers cannot roll in the direction they need to. To insure the lifters do not spin in the bore, part of the lifter has a flat surface that rides against a guide plate; forcing the lifter to ride up and down but not allowing it to spin.
I believe the initial failure is due to the needle bearings wearing out. This allows the lifter to travel so far that the guide plate is no longer able to keep the lifter from spinning. Once the lifter spins, this is the beginning of a catastrophic failure. Once the lifter has spun, it's not rolling across the camshaft, but skidding across it, metal on metal. This generates a lot of heat, wear and in then end, a lot of pounding due to the slop. Eventually one or more of the needle bearings falls out and drops into the oil pan. The needle bearing(s) are then drawn up into the oil tube that leads to the oil pump, where it seizes the oil pump which starves your engine of oil pressure. Soon after oil pressure is gone, the engine itself begins to seize.
Sorry for the long dissertation, but that's what I understand about the issue.
So, if this is what happened to your engine, you don't want to spend any more money on it. It's toasted.
I'll answer a question you didn't ask. How do I prevent this from happening to my new engine? The only thing you can do to help prevent it is to maintain it well...the most important thing is to change the oil at the right interval. This seems to be 5,000 miles or less. The manual mentions running the oil for as long as 7500. However, I can tell you from experience, you don't want to go beyond 5,000 miles between changes.
I went 7,500 for the first 60,000 miles on mine, which I bought new in 2006. I thought I could do this if I ran full synthetic oil. I stopped running the oil for 7,500 miles because I started experiencing fuel injector issues at 50,000 miles. The truck now has 116,000 miles on it and it runs better than the day I bought it. I run AR9100 every oil change and Stanadyne Performance Formula in the fuel.
The AR9100 will eliminate sludge build-up in the lifters, which could be a contributing factor to the failure. It also reduces friction dramatically, which should help prevent the needle bearings from wearing.
Last edited by bustedknuckles; 10-04-2014 at 03:29 PM.
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KOMONER (10-04-2014)
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