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First off, I am new to the diesel world. I tried looking everywhere for a thread of a truck with the same symptoms, but wasn't able to find anything with exactly what I am experiencing. If this has been posted before, I apologize. Anyway, I ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

06 6.0 Stuttering

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Old 09-26-2013, 06:10 PM
OhForReal_PSD's Avatar

Default 06 6.0 Stuttering

First off, I am new to the diesel world. I tried looking everywhere for a thread of a truck with the same symptoms, but wasn't able to find anything with exactly what I am experiencing. If this has been posted before, I apologize. Anyway, I bought a 2006 F250 6.0 a little over a week ago. It has 139k miles, and to my knowledge is stock with the exception of a 4" turbo back, and unfortunately a K&N CAI. As of now, it is used as my daily driver, not racing/towing. It will eventually be used to tow a horse trailer.

Well, I test drove the truck, had zero problems and ran great. The drive home from the dealer was 2 hours, again, no issues. Three or four days later, I noticed the engine and turbo "surging" I guess you could call it, at about 45 MPH, almost as if I was feathering the gas pedal in and out. The RPM's fluctuated about 250 down, then back up. Once I got up to about 55, it went away. It did this three or four more times, then at a stop light, it started idling pretty rough, enough to noticeably vibrate the whole truck. Once I accelerated, it went away and ran great the rest of the 30 or so minute drive. It will also "surge" when I floor it, almost every time.

Also, when accelerating from a dead stop, usually after idling for more than a minute or so, a little bit of black smoke will come out of the exhaust. I also feel a vibration in the gas pedal at around 1800-2000 RPM's. My last issue I am having, which I might be paranoid here, but I have a buddy with an 05 6.0, and sometimes the clicking of my glow plugs and my starter sounds sluggish compared to his.

Ive read that weak batteries can cause the FICM, I believe, make the truck run kind of rough. Is that accurate and is possibly what is causing this? I will get the batteries tested tomorrow, but I just wanted to hear any other possible causes of all of these symptoms. I checked the upper fuel filter, and it looked pretty good, as well as the bowl. I didn't see any grit/oil or particles. The oil level is good as well. I am in the middle of my second tank of running DieselKleen, in hopes that it was maybe bad fuel that had been sitting a while, it seems to be a little better, but could just be me convincing myself it will all be ok with an $8 bottle fix haha. I apologize for the long post, but any suggestions of what to check next or what it could be, would be greatly appreciated.

Im pretty sure this doesn't matter, but I would rather give too much info than not enough, it has a 6" lift and 35's.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Ok got the batteries tested. O'Reilly says both are bad, Auto Zone says theyre both good but the alternator failed. Id rather it be alternator, but who knows. It also threw P0336 crankshaft position sensor A circuit range/performance

OhForReal_PSD's Sig:2006 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6.0 PSD, ARP Studs, EGR Gone, Bulletproof Oil Cooler, Pat Oakes Tune, 6" Lift, 35's, 4" Turbo Back Exhaust, K&N CAI

Last edited by OhForReal_PSD; 09-26-2013 at 06:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:09 PM
Deadeye's Avatar
Diesel Fan


I would try changing the top and bottom feul filters if that didn't help you can test your ficm to make sure it's putting out the right voltage both are cheap and easy to do

Deadeye's Sig:05 f350 Harley Davidson sinister egr bypass ,coolant filter k+n cold air intake nitto 35 in trail grapplers magnaflow 4 inch turbo back with dual pipes
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:54 AM
Adrenaline junkie's Avatar
Diesel Wrench


I would make sure all charging issues are fixed and you have good steady voltage before anything else. Filters are cheap too as well as oil additives mentioned on this site. If you just have stiction issues additives help. Good oil, good clean fuel and steady volts are critical in these engines.

Adrenaline junkie's Sig:03 f 350 6.0, 4 dr, 8 ft 4x4, leveling kit, BFG KO2.35's on Method 20 NV's, S&B intake, XDP cool filter, ficm repair.com php40 tune, airdog 2, 6.4 banjos, DC Power 220 amp alt (looks cool too!) MBRP turbo back 409 with muffler, dieselsite HPOP, bulletproof ficm shell 58v (blue too) Pacbrake airbags, on board air, ATS cover, Royal Purple, Iron Cross rear bumper, 07 grille and lights, 08 mirrors.SCT with Eric's tunes
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:13 AM


Is it doing this when its warmed up or when its still cold?

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Old 09-29-2013, 03:45 PM
OhForReal_PSD's Avatar


Ok thanks, the charging issues are getting fixed this week. It does this mostly after its warmed up.
Can i add some additive now or should i wait till i change the oil? I was thinking about adding hot shots stiction eliminator. The oil only has about 500 miles on it. Well I wasn't able to get to the EGR valve or test the FICM yesterday. Hopefully I can today. But while driving it yesterday(I try to drive it as little as possible right now) about 2 hours on freeway at about 70 MPH average. I pulled into a parking lot, where it idled for about 5 minutes. I get back in and start driving back, when I hear my fan kick on and my stock coolant gauge is little more than 3/4 to the H mark. It immediately cooled back down once moving. I arrived home after the 2 hour drive at again about 70, and after not even 1 minute of idle in the driveway, the same thing happens. So I got out and popped the hood to find a small stream of coolant from the degas bottle cap. I wish I had gauges to tell you what the temp was exactly, but the coolant was boiling in the degas bottle. Im assuming I will need the oil cooler/egr cooler replaced? If so, is it a good idea to go ahead and get the ARP's and head gaskets done? Or maybe just a T stat? I am really hoping i didn't jump right into a money pit! I love the truck and its my dream truck but this hasn't started out exactly how I planned. Not really sure what to do next, but in the mean time I HAVE to check the EGR valve and testing the FICM.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I just pulled the EGR valve, and it was pretty coked up and sooty, but the valve still operated freely. So I cleaned it and reinstalled it. I did notice the manifold I believe that is, had moisture in it. From what I understand, that would be the oil cooler? I also opened up the degas bottle and it has almost zero fluid, and what little is in there is clear and smells a little of exhaust. Can I just add fluid or will I need to empty and refill it

Last edited by OhForReal_PSD; 09-29-2013 at 03:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 10-06-2013, 11:56 PM
OhForReal_PSD's Avatar


Well, the EGR cooler was toast. So I had it deleted and a Bulletproof oil cooler installed. Along with alternator and a custom tune. Runs amazing now. I appreciate the help guys!
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