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Ford 83-94 6.9 and 7.3L General Discussion of 83-94 6.9 and 7.3 Liter Ford Diesels

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Hi, if you all have read my last post a while ago. I am still looking for a Ford F250 /F350 Diesel Pickup. My question is: a local guy in Cutleridge (Miami FL) is selling his 1991 (I belive this is the correct year) Ford ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #1  
Old 06-05-2011, 08:03 PM
Diesel Fan

   

Default 1991 Ford F250 4X4 Diesel Pick Up a Good Buy?

Hi, if you all have read my last post a while ago. I am still looking for a Ford F250 /F350 Diesel Pickup. My question is: a local guy in Cutleridge (Miami FL) is selling his 1991 (I belive this is the correct year) Ford F250 4X4 XLT with 8 ft bed. It has about 300,000 +/- miles. Also the guy has owned for 4 years, and has maintained the truck. He had to repair/place verious componets. He was orginally asking $3500., but said he could go lower. I wanted to ask Diesel Bombers members if this is going to be a realiable truck? I know it's 7.3 International Engine. A co-worker who is a auto mechanic says that I should'nt buy a 4X4 because off additional maintence and repair costs, and 300,000 miles is to many miles for any truck. I seen less miles, but those trucks are usually 2 wheel drive. I like that the truck rides high off the ground and 4X4 could come in handy at some point. By the way auto mechanic friend/co-worker has never worked on a diesel pickup or for a matter fact any diesel vehicle. Any suggstions on realiblity and price? The guy selling has made every effort to maintain the truck, and says he wouldn't feel right selling his truck if everything was not runnning well. So far to my knoledge he has replaced injectors, and fixing the injection pump right now. The AC which does not work, and he does not know what the cause is. Thanks Paul
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  #2  
Old 06-05-2011, 09:00 PM
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if he is replacing the IP and has already done injectors, i say offer 2000 for it. you didnt say but i am assuming it is automatic. trans serviced recently?

also ask him about coolant flushes and if he has ever had the SCA/DCA checked in the cooling system. if not, walk away. the 7.3 idi motors are know for cavitating. if the coolant hasnt been changed often or if coolant additives werent used, good chance it will cavitate.
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  #3  
Old 06-06-2011, 08:45 PM
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What is SCA/DCA? He said the automatic transmission was overhauled some time ago. Cavitate, I read this word discussed with these 7.3 L engines. In a nutshell what is this? Some sort of internal damage? How often is the coollant have to be changed? Would a coolant filter be of any help. I was under impression that most cars and trucks you changed the coolant say every 5 years or so. Lastly this cavation occurs in all 7.3 L engines of certain specific years? Thanks Paul
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  #4  
Old 06-07-2011, 03:31 PM
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cavitation is very bad and no way of telling if it has happened till it is to far gone. cavitation is when the coolant "bores" a small hole threw the cyl lining and will put coolant into the cyl. it is prone to happen in the 7.3 idi engines. from 88 till 94.

coolant should be changed every 2 years or 50000 miles.

yes coolant filter will help and will also add the sca/dca into it if the filter has them in it.

DCA- diesel coolant additive

SCA-supplmental coolant additive

read here for more info on cavitation.
Cavitation Article

also hereCavitation is a localized low-pressure zone. This low pressure zone is caused by vibration of the cylinder wall due to the high cylinder pressure in a diesel engine. The cylinder walls vibrate due to irregular and sharp pressure increases during ignition. This fast cylinder wall movement causes a low-pressure zone to be created at the cylinder wall. When this pressure zone drops below the vapor pressure point (temperature, coolant ratio, and additive dependant) a vapor bubble is formed. When this low-pressure zone returns to a high-pressure zone, the vapor bubble collapses, causing an implosion, or pitting phenomena on the cylinder wall (like hitting the surface with a microscopic ball-peen hammer). If left unchecked, it will eventually eat all the way through the cylinder wall.

Diesel engines that have excessive turbocharger boost or severe duty use usually incur higher cylinder pressures and are more susceptible to cavitation concerns. Vehicles that incur short drive cycles (the vehicle is driven without time to warm up) can also be prone to cavitation concerns.

In short, cavitation is the Cancer of the Diesel Engine. Make sure you maintain the proper level of SCA's in your engine.



The following is a list of Coolants/additives that will prevent cavitation.

Ford or Motorcraft Premium Antifreeze · Motorcraft Premium Gold Antifreeze (does not require SCA/DCA)
· Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant
· Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant Pre-diluted 50/50
· Zerex 5/100 (white bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant
· Zerex Ready To Use Antifreeze/Coolant (premixed 50/50 with de-mineralized water)
· Zerex Heavy Duty Pre-charged Formula
· Shellzone Premium Quality Antifreeze
· Fleetguard Complete EG--pre-charged at 1.5 units/gallon DCA4
Also available premixed 50/50 with water with the same DCA4 level
Fleetguard's DCA4 SCA (Supplimental Coolant Additives), first introduced in 1984, contain heavy-duty chemical inhibitors and organic corrosion inhibitors that provide enhanced diesel engine liner pitting protection. These inhibitors contain Potassium, Phosphate, Potassium Nitrate, Sodium Nitrite, Sodium Molybate, and Adipic Acid.

There are some concerns and naysayers regarding using ELC.....
Extended Life Coolant....in the IDI...There are SEVERAL members
using ELC coolant with NO REPORTED failures!

IF you want test free coolant, CAT, Rotella ELC, and Fleetguard
are all 300 k mi coolants that you pretty much just flush out and clean the cooling system, add the ELC coolant STRAIGHT from the jug and DO NOT add any water what so ever!
This coolant is pre-mixed and if and when make up coolant IS needed ie; after a hose issue,W/P or T/stat replacment etc....you MUST use the product...not tap water!
The minerals in tap/well water will inter mix and cause SLUDGE
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  #5  
Old 06-07-2011, 06:36 PM
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Thanks for the info, looks like I should maybe consider a Ford 1995 or later. The only reason I was considering a older Ford was I trying to avoid the computer controled/opperated engine. Since their is no way to tell if the coolant was changed as often nessary, I guess if if want that truck I had take the risk. The engine can be repaired if sevcavation accurs (yes / no)? I also own a 1983 Nissan Maxiam Diesel car, is cavation problem for this type engine too? Thanks Paul

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

So as you state turbo charged or short distance driving would cause cavation on the 7.3 L diesel engine. I suppose if I buy a non-turbo model which this truck happens to be I can avoid some associated risk right? What about the earlier ford diesel engines prior to the cavation issues, are they a better buy if low miles are well taken care of? Finally so as you explained 1995 or later Ford Diesels don't have this problem? How much later can I go from 1995 and avoid the engine computer and expensive fuel injectors etc? I read parts for the 7.3 L are cheaper then the more modern engines. Sorry if this post is sort of duplicated from the orginal one posted earlier.

Last edited by Minotaur; 06-07-2011 at 06:36 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  #6  
Old 06-07-2011, 07:09 PM
95powersmoker's Avatar
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I sold my 91 F250 4x4 with 175k miles for 4k so I'm thinking you should talk this guy down quite a bit from the 3500 because it has almost twice the miles...

95powersmoker's Sig:
1995 F-250 Powerstroke, auto, 4x4
Gauges, Tymar Intake, SD dual exhaust, TW chip, Stage 1's

2000 F-250 SC/SB Powerstroke 4x4, Auto FOR SALE
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  #7  
Old 06-08-2011, 04:43 PM
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any older idi engine is fine. never said antyhing about turbo causing cavitation.
just if u know the history it is better.

you maxima should be fine.

only way to repair cavitation once it has bored a hole threw is to sleeve the cyl. any good machine shop can do this.
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  #8  
Old 07-02-2011, 11:23 PM
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I knew someone who had a chevy 6.2, that after 350,000 miles, cavitated, and he hydrolocked his motor, he towed it home and pulled the head, and as an emergency repair, he ground down the area, jb welded it, and reground it smooth, put the head back on and has been driving it for 2 years like that not quite sure why it has held togeather so long, but it has

chiefton17's Sig:1989 Dodge Cummins D-250, 5speed, pump turned up
1997 Ford F-250HD Crew Cab Powerstroke 4x4
-rebuilt E4OD w/ spicer shift kit
-TS performance 6 pos chip
-3 inch turbo back strait pipe and gauges
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  #9  
Old 04-23-2012, 09:53 PM
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I just bought a 2 wheel drive 92 f250 with a 7.3. Its all stock paid 1500 bucks runs pretty rough do you think I got a deal it just broke 200,000 miles
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  #10  
Old 04-24-2012, 09:01 AM
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yeah jb weld is awesome .... but I think your friend is BSing us all..... the origional strength of that material could not with stand that kind of pressure ... at bets its retaed at 3 tons..... or 9,000 pounds.... I would have to see this motor tron down before I believed it was in fact a runner... just sayin... lil hard to imagine...... i know welds that cant hold that kind of pressure inside a cyl....... i have done some experiminting with small engines.... no coolant .... 5 hp briggs... cracked the cyl wall...... jb might work though... I could be proven wrong......... doubt it though...
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