First off, I did the best I could with pictures since my hands were dirty. If there is not a picture it is because it is explained in the instructions pretty good. If you use a lift and work under your truck make sure your truck is steady and secure. If you work on the ground I suggest those drive up ramps to raise the front of the truck and then block the back wheels.

1. You will need at least a 15 qt drain pain. Place under the truck and remove the drain plug in the allison pan. Let drain until dripping. This will ensure that most of the fluid is out. Once that is done replace plug in pan.

2. Remove the bolts from the pans outer edge and slowly drop the pan down and remove the internal filter. Careful as more fluid will come out once filter is removed.

3. Begin the process of removing the plugs from the solenoids and the pressure switch and get them out of the way.

4. Begin to remove the outer bolts from the VB. See pictures below for more in depth look.

5. Once the VB is loose then turn it towards the passenger side and slowly tilt it down to remove it, this will clear the pin from the shifter. Watch out as more fluid will come out.

6. Place VB on bench, I covered mine with a trash bag, worked great.

7. Remove all bolts from VB (see pics below) and take the VB apart and remove the sparator plate.

8. Drill in the proper location, following instructions. Remove any snares from the VB on the under side from drilling. See pic below.

9. Follow the instructions to remove the plate and solenoids, and tube to get to the trims valves. Remove the old trim valves and follow instruction in kit to install new ones.

10. See pictures below. Once trim valves are in and solenoids are back together then install the plate to hold them in, make sure the accumulator springs are back in as well before plate is installed.

11. Place separator plate back on VB and make sure that everything lines up and is clean of debris or metal shavings.

12. Place top of VB back on the lower half and begin to install the bolts. See picture for locations.

13. Once VB is all back together and pressure switch and tube are back in then you can tigheten things up and get ready for install.

14. Replace the VB back in trans the same way you took it out making sure that the pin front side goes back into the shifter.

15. Make sure you plug everything back in and then install all remaning bolts. Tighten and re-check everything, twice...

16. Re-install the internal filter and then the pan, tighten everything up, re-check bolts, not sure on trq spec. Just make sure they are tight.

17. Pour in 12-14 qts and check with truck running in park. You can re-use the transmission fluid that you catch if you want or you can do what I did. I called Mike L. and he told me that Mobil 1 Synthetic was the way to go so I bought 16 quarts of it and put that in. I am going to wait a little while put some miles on it and then drain more out and put more synthetic in, should all mix well and will be 95-98% all synthetic at that time. Will not hurt to mix them if you want to use new stuff with what is still in the trans and converter.

18. Drive till warm, park and check again, add if needed.

I know that pics are not in order but you can get the idea and as you tear it apart you will see by each picture what I am talking about. -

Attached Images

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Here are more pictures... -

Attached Images

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And the last picture...


I hope this will help with those of you that have questions on the Trans-go Jr install process. -

Attached Images

MVC-392S.JPG (47.4 KB, 25 views)

good job stud...........thanks -

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Thanks Trey. -

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No problem man... Glad I could help..

If you guys have any questions just let me know... -

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looks like it was hell -

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94 dodge ram 2500 Cummins 12v, regular cab long box, nv4500 ,E/F shift handle w 2low and pacbreak switch, Dual 5" bullhauler stacks, dt profab track bar, Industrial injection 370HP stage 3 injectors, #5 fuel plate, 4000 GSK, HTT holset 35/40 hybrid with a 16cm non gated housing, ported exhaust,o-ringed head, ARP 12mm studs, pacbrake exhaust brake,60 lb valve springs,custom 191 dv's, timing at 18.5*,13" ceramic valair 6sp clutch, AFE intake, Pyro,boost,Tranns temp,,

It was interesting to tear into but for the most part it was not bad at all. Once I got in there and got my hands dirty it seemed to go pretty well. -

Did you notice any difference in how the truck drove? My understanding was that it should feel stock, but be able to handle more power.

Nice write-up. I have been thinking of doing this to mine. This will be a big help. -

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We put one in Gmclbz's truck a couple of weeks ago and it was a piece of cake just gotta take your time and be clean follow the instructions and tq specs and it will be an easy job, i haven't drove it yet but being a passenger and from what he tells me the shifts are much firmer than stock. DD -

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It shifted better and handled the power I dumped on it really well. My truck was heavily modded and there was no issues at all. If you need help with the install let me know, I would be more than happy to help you when you get ready. I have a garage and plenty of tools and I am right outside Houston...

It will drive nice, that install is simple and it will hold pretty much what you can throw at it.. -

Your garage still allows GMC's???

I might take you up on that once I get it back from the bodyshop -

I think I can make room to get it in there...

I don't mind helping out man.. Just let me know... -

this is an old thread but decided to post on it anyways. so i'm about to buy a programmer should i get one of these even if i'm plannin on getting a suncoast kit?(which will be a good ways down the road...) and will it handle a +220hp tune? -

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I dont know if it will handle the 220 tune, but it would be a good idea to get it, because if ya want to run it on a higher tune and get on it a little bit then you dont have to worry as much. -

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