Help, started as a squeek then progressed to shredding the OEM serp belt, put new bearings in idler and tensioner pulleys, all others checked out ok. Then 2-days later squeek, checked everything out again, top of belt looked like it was getting scuffed, took belt off, water pump felt like it was dragging a little, so put new NAPA water pump on, reinstalled belt and now three days later, pieces of belt are coming off again I guess I have a bad pulley somewheres else??? any help 03 SO 2500 stock as stock can be wit 95,000 miles

 

see if you can feel any resistance from any other pullies. if not put the belt on and run it for a while and get an IR thermometer and check the temp where the bearings are at. there will be a drastic difference in temp if one is bad. hope this helps

Benjamin

 

If you would feed your truck a proper diet it wouldnt want to eat belts.

j/k Check you pulley alignments. Sounds like ya got one out of wack.

 

This is gonna turn out to be you problem. Your belt is probably being chewed up on one side or the other and that will tell you which way you are off then you just need to find which pulley it is. You may also check the belt tension close. If the belt is to tight it will burn up bearings pretty quick. You may need to go to a slightly longer belt for whatever reason.

 

X3 on alignment. Also double check the part#, you might have gotten 1-size +/-sometime back.

 

Get a Gator Back !!

Work performed on a 2002
Time Of Completion : 30 Mins

Here's my belt @ 48,000 miles may want to check yours out

Tools Required :
1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet & an 1/2 to 3/8 reducer

Parts Required :
Here's the Gatorback belt $33.50 at AutoZone; this part Number is for Models with A/C
This Belt is said to Remove the chirp at Shutdown

Here's the big difference in the belts

Now to change them out
Here's a top view of the Tensioner

Here's a bottom View of the Tensioner The arrow is pointing to the 3/8 inch Square Hole where you insert the 3/8 adapter
(Something Like the Stock Oil Drain Plugs)

Here's the 3/8 inch adapter in the hole.
Now you see why the adapter is needed , an extension is to long and you wont be able to turn it very well , And the 1/2 inch drive ratchet is a must for leverage.

 

Shove it towards the drivers side and pop the belt off the bottom pulley

When you have the belt off the bottom pulley slowly let off on the tensioner and the ratchet will rest against the frame rail and stop it from flopping up where you cant get to it .
Remove the belt You'll have to push the tensioner back over a little to get the belt around the ratchet and you'll have to loop the belt around the fan blades to be able to get the belt off the truck.

Once thats done heres the new belt routing diagram
To do this by your self you'll need to put it on like so...

First get the belt around the fan blades and past your ratchet thats holding the tensioner from moving any further
Then route the belt around all pulleys, but the bottom one (6).... You will have a loop of belt waiting to go on pulley # 6
Crank the tensioner with your right hand all the way the furthest you can then with your left hand grab the loop and pull it over Pulley #6
before you release the tensioner look at the pulleys and make sure the belt is centered on all of them then release the tensioner and check from the top.
If all looks good Start the truck up.
Wait a few Seconds then watch the belt go around for a little bit then shut the truck off....
Did you notice ???
NO CHIRP
Mission Accomplished

 

Some say to replace the entire tensioner, especially if miles are high. Spring gets weak and belt slips and eats itself up. Could be the problem, maybe. Just a thought.

 

I've never had trouble with the tensioner,I have had the bearings in the fan hum go out though.at around 100k
350k miles.

 

welp whoever guessed alignment was right!!!! the tensioner somehow got tweaked, causing belt to ride to the inside of a/c pulley splitting the out side groove, well thanks for everyones help and the pictures were bonus, this is a great site