215/75/15 is quite a bit larger than the tires I am running, so I would not go taller than 3.07 rear end ratio. I feel like the 215/75/14 on my truck and 3.07 are the tallest I can handle in fifth gear. I do believe first gear is still too short, though. If I slip the clutch a bit, I can actually start rolling in second gear.

I really need to research advancing the injection timing, though. My truck always felt sluggish at higher rpms. It never wants to rev. It seems to just feel flat. I would gladly sacrifice lower rpm power, because the turbo builds boost almost immediately.

The shudder at lower rpms I have always experienced is probably something in the bed of my truck. If I have a load in the bed, I don't hear or feel the shudder. I think it has something to do with the bed mounts or something in the suspension or driveline.

It has been over a year since my last update. I am over 42k miles on the conversion.

Since last year, I added a second breather to help with blow by, but I discovered the mounting plate for the A/C (fastened to the side of the injection pump) was not fastened tightly. When I refastened the plate, my oil leaks have almost ceased. It's amazing how oil leaks will travel to so many places, causing you to go on wild goose chases.

 

When I did the timing bump (I took out all the shims, now it's 11 deg) it improved everything. I didn't see any negatives, no loss in low end and seems to run smoother although it sounds a bit more like a cummins . The motor likes to rev more than before and my mpg's stayed the same. Glad to hear you have a lot of miles on the swap, I have 25k+ miles so far.

 

I drove his pickup for a short distance a little over a year ago, and I can attest to how spunky it was. I didn't push it hard since it wasn't my rig, but it was impressive.

Don

 

Hi Don, yes that was before I advanced the timing, you should take it for a spin now! It has a lot more power, I have been thinking about a dyno session, but have been too busy on my current build.

 

Update after some changes:
My brother came up for Memorial Day weekend. We pulled the injection pump and removed a 1-hole and 2-hole shim. IIRC, the 1-hole retards timing by 3 degrees and the 2-hole is 2.5 degrees. I have no idea what the base injection timing is, but now, it is advanced 5.5 degrees from previously. The engine runs much better on the top end. Before, I would comfortably cruise at 63 mph. Now, I'm pushing 65-67 mph comfortably.

Also, EGTs are down by at least 100 degrees. I rarely go over 600 degrees EGT traveling 67-69 mph. These temps are pre-turbo.

I have to order a new intake manifold gasket. When that comes in, I am going to pull the last shim (1-hole), which will give another 3 degrees of advance. The truck still starts will ease, and EGTs are very good, so what do I have to lose???

Looking forward to seeing if mpg changes.

Next fix is the shudder in the driveline. It happens primarily at constant throttle. We replaced a failing u-joint, but it still isn't gone. It doesn't occur repeatedly. Sometimes, I'll have the terrible shudder and other times, it's smooth. I am thinking it is related to the transmission. At idle, with clutch engaged, the racket is louder than the engine. When clutch is disengaged, you only hear the engine. It drives and shifts very well, but damn, this vibration is driving me nuts. My wild guess is the vibration is in the input shaft or output shaft. Unfortunately, the vibration doesn't coincide with rpm or mph.

Anyways, thanks for all the info in this forum. I will say advancing the injection timing is highly recommended. It doesn't turn the Kubota into a monster. It just makes the package a noticeably better. Two thumbs up!

I think I am up to 42k miles on the conversion. I'll easily pass 50k miles before the end of the year. Lately, mpg has wavered between 36 and 38mpg. I'm kind of disappointed, because I would occasionally break 40mpg last year.

Jurgen

 

I took out all the shims on mine and saw improvements overall plus it didn't hurt the mpg's. I suspect you have a bad input brg. in your trans.

 

Noticed you guys were discussing engine timing for the 2203 recently. I just got my rig on the road, maybe 300 miles so far. Got the engine from Ragnar in 2014, kind of embarrassing how long this took... Anyway, I looked up the numbers on my engine in the carrier v2203 workshop manual

http://www.utcccs-cdn.com/hvac/docs/...2/62-10865.pdf

and mine was set at 6.5 degrees BTC. I removed both of the shims under the injector pump (only 2 there) and according to the same manual i advanced it a further 5.5 degrees. 12 total. Lost a bit of the low end torque but gained on the higher rpms where it was terribly flat. This is much better but I may try knocking it back to 10 degrees.
I am hoping that we can pool our info to find the best timing as its a bit of a pain to pop everything apart.
I am running the k03 turbo but only getting 5 lbs boost, its a junk yard unit that I cleaned up, it didnt seem like it needed a rebuild. I dont know if its leaking thru the wastgate flapper or if its not spooling up due to some sort of friction. Theres a tiny bit of play in both the thrust and radius. Seemed reasonable.
I think ill wait untill I get the turbo boosting properly before iI change anything.
If you guys are confident you have got the timing right I would love to hear what you went with.

 

Glad to hear you have it on the road! As for the boost, most if not all of us that are running the K03 have the waste gate clamped shut or held with a stiff spring. The stock actuator will only give you 5psi. You should be able to get 20psi or more out of that turbo.

 

FTE Thanks so much for the wastegate tip! I threw a turnbuckle across it to seal it up and today I got up to 11 psi! When I saw that I pulled over and backed out the fuel rack screw 1/2 to 3/4 turn and the power increase was noticable.
I had pressure tested it thru the turbo to 20lbs, but it has been apart many times since then so I may get more by just tightening everything up. I expect I can turn the fuel up higher if I get the full 20lbs of boost and if I get another significant bump in power that would be fantastic.
I am driving a 2000 4x4 with 4.10 gears. It came with 245/75/16 tires which is a 30.5 inch tire and without the extra boost it was borderline whether it would really spin those big tires. Its totally passable now and will only get better with more boost and fuel. The egt's are not a problem at 12 degrees btdc.
Mileage is 30.2 for the first run of 440 or so miles. Ragnar was doing close to 40 with a similar era 4x4, so hoping to increase my mileage numbers but happy with things as they are if that doesnt work out.

 

Glad it helped! With the 4.10 gears you probably won't see high MPG's. Rangemar had 3.73's and 33's, so you will need taller tires and/or re-gear. My current rig is a Sport Trac that is heavier than your truck and I have re-geared with 3.08 and 31's. I'm seeing 36 average mixed driving. I have plenty of power.