So,
I am THRILLED and ridiculously ELATED to announce, I have a FULLY and PROPERLY operational 4FB1 diesel motor!!
There is still some fine tuning to do, which will wait until it is safely in the Heep.
Idles nice, crisp throttle. Purrrrrs like a "Cat"! :wink:

And boy. Do those glow plugs and heavy starter drain a small battery FAST!! :shock:
I will definitely be getting a blue top optima or a semi-style battery, if not two. Absolutely.

I had to rebuild the Bosch VE style pump. I have to admit, tearing apart the IP was a bit scary.
Never done one by myself. However, it was actually rather easy.
If you have ever rebuilt a motor with success, or a very very detailed model, you CAN do it, if you approach it like a brain surgeon.
DO NOT screw up, because if you lose parts, or put them together wrong, many diesel shops WILL NOT touch it.

And the French gentleman's pictorial guide there are things that can be done MUCH easier, esp. when reinstalling the throttle levers and pump head.

Biggest thing was to mark EXACTLY where the governor shaft was factory set. I used a small file to mark them.
They were a bit of a pain to get back in place
with the style of locknut Isuzu used, so I couldn't use 2 tools at once. I made a tool from deepwell impact socket.
A VW style reverse metric hex nut will be due on the next one, to be sure. Which I hope will be an I-Mark style IP, eventually.

Anyways, after all the time, grief, money, challenges, obstacles, I couldn't be more relieved, or happy. This motor is AWESOME.

So, as I am finishing up the Heep frame and tub before installing the 4FB1, here is more Polished aluminum.
Remember this is BY HAND, NO wheel.
But I did use the Dremel/carbide to shave the cast pebbles in first step.

Looking at the old pics of the turbo as bought, hard to believe it's the same one:

 

Everything cancerous, holey, or little no structural integrity was cut out, fabricated, and welded in,/replaced my myself. Luckily, the frame was uber sanitary, except a few cracks where some swamper/mudder jackass was launching the old gal. All hat channel fabricated from 1/8th sheet by me. All 14 linear feet of hat channel lined up with mounting holes on frame, which was sitting outside during tub resto.

Seat frames to mount @ 1994 Wrangler seats fabbed by me from 2 stock passenger side CJ5 seat mounts.



The trans access panels are actually nicer than they look, and very restorable. But you get an idea of what I started with.

No more of this anywhere on the Jeep. The Yellow is a rocker panel I cut out. You can see where I cut a hat channel to repair it, and decided I couldn't live with what I found.

 

First Mockup. Notice no adapter plates, no weird expensive crap. Bolts together 100% with factory Isuzu and Jeep parts. Even the clutch is 100% Isuzu and Jeep mashup, but the friction plate($65).
Never been done before conversion, far as I can tell. Weighs the same, performs the same as the original "Go-Devil" 4 cyl gas motor that came in almost all CJ5's first 20 years of production. And that is BEFORE I put a turbo back on a motor designed to run with a turbo.
I am good on all those Kabotas, 4BT's and OM617's, overpriced engineering headaches and compromises.

Looks factory

Only problem I had was a PO installed a lift kit, which created a steeper rear pinion angle. So I had to mount the engine a little higher than I wanted. But still lower center of gravity and roll center than V8 conversions, and @ the same installed height as the "Go-Devil" I found:

Right mount:

Installing an '83 vintage T5 and D300, I had to move the trans support X member forward till the rear bolt hole in the x member was in the forward most frame hole, then drill a new bolt hole. Still in the reinforcement metal inside the frame. Also had to cut a relief in the xmember. Reinforced, of course.

Winch mount/bumper: 3/8" 2"x4" "C" channel, 3/8" plate for 12,000lb winch. Those bolts are only temporary.

Getting dang close!!

 

If you're up and running, how's your gas mileage? Can it get up to 75-80 mph with ease & hold that all day long? Cool build.

 

Thanx Sir!
Actually, STILL not driving it YET.
Engineering dang near everything, like brackets, wiring, radiator mounts, ect AND actually making things nice and factory appearing takes massive amounts of time. Then replacing everything like lights, lenses, shift boots, ect. takes mad money.
I don't want to just throw parts at it to get it running, because once the wear and tear of driving a vehicle begin, it is harder to get things sanitary and sharp. I really need to take and upload some new pics. Looking awesome.

However, extremely close, as in, turn/marker/headlight wiring, brakes, and clutch line pretty much all that is left before I can drive it!

 

2 1/2" exhaust turnout, with 10" braided flex. Also, notice the inlet of the FlowMaster is inboard of the turndown. Tricky fabbing to have such smooth flow on so many compound curves and angles! BUT perfectly spaced through the hole I had to use!

Perfectly spaced @ 3/4" gap, on an compound angle 2 1/2" pipe through a 5 1/2" gap measured at 3/8" above lowest point on body/fender! PLEASE ignore crappy harbor freight welder welds. I couldn't get that thing to weld properly to save my life. Since returned(ALWAYS buy the warranty from them, ppl) full refund. Buddy's identical HF welder worked like a champ after the fact, so not all their welders are junk.

Full 2 1/2" exhaust system designed and fabricated by me, with recycled pipes. Very minor surface rust, so after painting with High temp, should last many years after being coated on the inside with oily diesel soot. After the turbo install, this can easily be adapted.
Also, this design can be copied at a later date.
Still have a heat shield for the muffler, but later.
Exhaust system sits higher than Transmission cross member, so will be great for me for a good while.



In this, we can see the well plotted, and nice smooth fuel tubing bends, mounting to frame. The "E" brake cable mounts I had to make, and still need proper hardware.
Yes, the Fuel tank is only Ratchet strapped in ATM!



Braided stainless brake lines throughout. Skyjacker 8000 nitrogen charged shocks for 3-4" lift.

Front brake line routing and mounting. Semi finished radiator frame. Will not be finalized until after air to air cooler is mounted.

Factory alternator bracket modified to use uber common GM style alternator. Still need a semi temporary fan shroud. Summit Racing GM style fully TIG'd aluminum radiator bought from a buddy. Had some minor mods to do, still have some after intercooler install.

In this, you can see the blowby vent tube I fabbed on the top of the valve cover. Horizontal line on Firewall is clutch line

 

You can see a lot of engineering and production in this. Fabricated battery mount, hold down, Fuel water separator/hand primer bracket. Modified Isuzu A/C vacuum idle up diaphragm bracket for use with throttle. Saab duct is temporary until after Turbo install.

Made these side mirror mounts out of aluminum crutch tubing. Perfect OD!!

Less work to do than appears to untrained eye, actually, and jack compared to what I have already done. Seat restoration soon($10 bucks on CL? Absolutely!!)
Yes. That is an actual Browning .50 Cal "dummy" for bench testing weapon action. Primer never drilled from factory. Originally thinly chrome plated.
REAL "pineapple" dummy hand grenade for Transfer case shifter coming soon.
And I tell ya, after all this time, work, money, meditation, etc., it is AWESOME to sit in the driver's seat, and fire up that little Diesel!

Still much refinement to be done, but I would venture to say a very much stock appearing conversion!

Very proud of my work! REALLY starting to look awesome!

 

what about the turbo?, are you going to run NA

 

I will be running N/A when it first hits the road. The turbo project will cost @ $500 between the mandrel tubing for the T304 SST manifold, and the turbo overhaul and shaft balance. This motor weighs almost exactly what the Hurricane Go-Devil 4 cyl. motor does, and puts out almost exactly the same HP. So, it should drive N/A about what CJ5's did for the first 20 years of production. The turbo should make it extra fun.

UPDATE: All exterior lights(Head, tail, turn, running/clearance, brake) are wired in and operational!

Only thing left is the headlight high beam circuit!

 

Transfer case resealed, rears opened up, cleaned out, resealed.

Getting a hose put on the end of the clutch line today.

I should finally be driving the Jeep this week!!