this whole mess will sit on the roof of the cab,then feed into a PVC pipe [an idea from diesel bombers] then down to a box around the k&n or pipercross airfilter which will sit on the turbo intake.

we got the rear bed humped into the yard today,man this is as rusty as i,d consider worthwhile,i,d say 40% of the side seams are rusted right away,luckily a quick measure shows that i wont [hopefully] have to cut the bed twice,as the rear looks like it will sit just right-final measure i hope will confirm this.still have to weld some braces across before i cut the rear off the bed-looks like about 20 inches needs to come out.

i tell ya -this guy who invented rust...

 

here,s some older shots i just found,this is how i mounted the cab to the chassis,it,s a tee frame and the factory rubber bushes sit onto this.

 

here,s the picture i forgot to add above-im gonna stick to metal work for the rest of the nite-

 

PJ,
Looks like you made a good bit of progress. I see the snow is gone and now your into the mud season.
I like the cab mounts, looks like they should be strong enough to keep the cab in place. Where did you come across the Osprey intake?
Are you shortening the bed to fit the frame? Does the wheel well end up in the correct location?

 

hey!

the mighty dodge brothers saw fit to engineer the bed just right for the u.s. army and just right for my truck too-i will only have to cut 20 inches out of the front of the bed,the arch looks to sit just right from there back-with no cutting,which is pretty cool.MOPAR!! FOR LIFE.
this is all subject to having a proper measure up when it stops raining.
the V22 OSPREY possibly has a lot of parts developed here in the un- united kingdom,prototypes are possibly not used for the final design.
i made the entire cold air intake around this intake horn-which has the same perfect shape as current race prepared intake ports-strangely enough.
tomorrow i hope to take a step nearer the engine/trans saga-

meanwhile i got my K.D.P to do,decide what timing to put in there,possibly new valve springs and look at getting some paint on there.

 

made up two centre,s to allow accurate engine/ trans alignment.

one sits inside the clutch alignment tool we made,one sits on the trans input shaft snout.

remade the pilot bearing adaptor.

made a 26mm spacer to set the trans bell correct dist. away from the eng bell.

set eng/trans bellhousings verticaly parralell using setting bar.

set eng/trans bellhousings horizontally paralell using setting bar.

set eng/trans level with machine level.

check and then steam in with the 'blue glue.

 

got some more jobs knocked off-set the bed level on some heavy timbers,then got my site laser level to ping the lines up the side,i marked out the bed to suit the rear of the truck chassis-it needed 18 inches removing-thanks to MR MILWAUKEE SAWZALL-i got the bed rubbled in short order.

 

then i flared the front end of the cut bed up and cut the corners at an angle,this allows my cut part to slide in.one of the spot welded bed braces underneath was right in the way-cut this out as there is another one thats part of the rear section.

 

next i cut two lumps of timber and cramped them onto the bed rails,this gives me a spigot to hang the rear bed end from.makes it easier whilst working alone and with a wrecked spine- [ still love moto-x ]
a few measures and some grinding and hammering and it was all held tight with a 0.5 tonne ratchet strap.

THANKS to MR MAKITA 4" GRINDER and the ratchet strap family.

 

then i ground up all the edges and STITCH welded the seams.

you can see the front deck of the bed is flared up here,allows me to slide things around until it,s where i want,i left an inch and a half extra on the rear end of the bed,this overlaps the other part and then i can drill 1/4" holes in a zig zag pattern and plug weld these when things are all lined up.

the cap was a present from my brother-reads- STILL PLAYS WITH TRUCKS